Zed Head

Saw this article about winter grade gas coming two weeks early. Hot weather + winter grade could = hot start/heat soak. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-09-01/valero-seeks-texas-help-to-ship-more-gasoline-after-harvey

Cut the shim with two "ears" on the side and bend them over and you'll have a self-locating shim that will probably hold itself in place also. Curious though, and just to be rigorous - are you sure that the mislocated shim reduced flow enough to cause the problem? Often those big passages connect to smaller passages and can't flow that much anyway. Probably doesn't matter since you're rebuilding, but sometimes the obvious thing isn't really what it seems.

Shiny.

I think that EFI engines can handle more radical cam profiles because the fuel metering is more precise. But Nissan used the exact same profile and lift for the 1973 240Z and 1976 280Z. It's in the Engine Mechanical chapter. Kind of weird.

Your posts usually have clarity but this one does not. "Measurement of the hole". From where? Looks about 3/16" in diameter.

12.05 at the battery and 11.33 at the module means that something is drawing current and that there is resistance on the path. Could be a short in the module.. Not really clear where you measured at the module. 12.05 also means that your battery is almost dead. It should be at least 12.6. Your grandfather was probably right but it's always good to confirm. That 260Z module is one of the very first designs, so probably probably to failure. The 260Z was the first Z to get electronic ignition. I'm not really a survivalist but I like their chart. http://modernsurvivalblog.com/alternative-energy/battery-state-of-charge-chart/

I guess you made free-hanging shims from the stick-on Autozone shims. You had to pry them off. I'm confused about what came with your pads, and what you ended up using that worked.

I have the D161 pads on my car too. I didn't get the hanging 1/2 shims though, I think I got full size stick on. They must have changed something. But, here's a thing - the ones that I replaced had full-size shims with holes for hanging, but also had glue for sticking. IF I recall right, they were pre-stuck. I hope yours didn't have release paper over glue that was supposed to be removed. Just saying... It does make me thing though, that I could remove the stick on shims from the pads I didn't like, remove the glue, and cut them in half, and use them as free-hanging shims. Anyway, hope it keeps working. I'm going to assume that covering only a portion of the piston is a key design element, since two companies, at least, make them that way.

Could you post a picture of the shims? You said that they only cover half but you didn't say that they were the hanging style. Got the impression that they were stick on, from your post.

Hagerty shows the lowly 73 240Z as sitting at $35,000 for a "good" one. And their values are supposed to be base on actual sales. Must be the from the bigger auctions. Different worlds. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1973-datsun-240z

Good point, I didn't make that connection. I'll bet that i don't see them for months. Not a big deal.

That's two good finds! Don't be intimidated by all of the wires on the ignition module. The ones you need are under that red strip of plastic. It's a terminal block with a spot and a screw for each wire. You'll see when you take the spare out of your parts car. Might want to snap a picture for reference of where each color wire goes. Easier than digging through eh FSM.

This is kind of funny. Rockauto says the order has shipped already. Should just be four thin parts in an envelope, USPS. But it's expected to arrive in eleven days. Do they still use Pony Express? Even that would be faster. Might be cool enough by then to try a set out. Supposed to have a heat wave next week, so no tire removal happening then. Apparently, creating a label is "Shipped!" to Rockauto.

How bad and how long? Sticky valves, rusty parts, etc. can happen if it's been sitting for years. My original engine ran better after giving it a hard run. The valve seals were worn and I think that they maybe softened up for a short while after a good beating, plus clearing out the oil in the combustion chamber. Anyway, a year sitting is a lot different than ten.

Just ordered a set from Rockauto. $4.46 shipped, USPS. Noticed that it's a wholesaler closeout though, with a 3 day delay, and that they don't look anything at all like the other shims for the other cars they're supposed to fit. Hope they're not made of cardboard. Wagner is a reputable brand though.

Pretty sure that they make a controller that uses a temperature sensor. You mentioned a switch, then a sensor. With a sensor you need the controller. With one of those you can set the temperature you want for fan cooling, and some have a timer for after engine shutoff. Search "Ford Taurus fans" on the internet and you'll probably find some other options. That's the common setup and control system. Here's some possibilities - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fan-switches-thermal/thermal-switch-style/adjustable-fan-control-kit/sending-unit-style/radiator-probe

That's a good find. I wonder if they need modification. They don't seem to be spec'ed for our cars. Cheap though.

I don't have any spares. Actually, I remember that I tried the other shim options because one the floating shims that I have is slightly torn at the hanging point. Running it anyway now because it's the only type that works.

If you haven't thrown it away yet you could cut open the oil filter and compare the clean side of the filter medium to the dirty side. That information, combined with the flow paths, should give a good idea of which bearing surfaces saw bearing shell particulate matter. The cylinder bores and pistons get their lubrication from splashed or thrown oil, unless the BMW engine has squirters. Pretty much everything else gets filtered oil, I believe.

I think I have one spare that I can dig up. I just remember it was very shiny, and definitely had the feel of steel.

Check where the vacuum hose is connected. Doesn't look like it's getting any vacuum. fuel pressure at idle should be at least down to 31, down to 28 on a well-tuned engine in god shape. And pull the hose and check for raw fuel. It's fairly common for the FPR's to spring an internal leak and dump unregulated fuel in to the manifold through the hose. Old FPR diaphragms get dried up and stiff also, and probably don't regulate like they should.

I'm not positive but I think that that's a 260Z module. They had the aluminum case with the fins. E12-09 is an early number. And I think I see a bunch of splices on the connecting wires, to make it fit the 280Z wiring. I did something similar to use a 78 module in my 76. If you have a parts car, then a module swap would be the quick easy thing to do. The correct module should let you get rid of the splice job. Disconnect the battery first to avoid shorts. You never know what a PO might have done.

Don't forget the pickup coil in the distributor. And check that you didn't forget to put the rotor back on under the cap. (Everyone has done it). The ignition module is in the area of the noise though. Take it out and examine. It's easy to get to. You can wire in a GM HEI module pretty simply, although the Federal models of 1976 Z's have two pickup coils. So you lose one. You haven't really done enough of the electrical testing to justify replacing the module though. You have a meter, just start probing and writing. The Engine Electrical chapter has whole list of tests, with pictures. Page EE-33 starts it. I think that he has a 76, with a voltmeter. His other thread mentioned 76.

Running rich smells like raw gasoline. Does your nose work well? No offense. Smoking can kill the sense of smell. So, this is problem now? You have a running engine so all that you can really do from this point is tune the parts that control fuel. I notice though that you haven't actually provided a number for resistance on Pin 13, at the ECU connector, along with the temperature of the sensor when the resistance was measured. Even though it's been brought up several times. No offense, again, but this often means the person just did the simple continuity test or has a cheap meter that gives poor data. It's very important. At operating temperature the range is in the tens of ohms, 290 to 360 ohms. A few ohms matter. Then there's fuel pressure. It's critical. That, and the quality of the FPR, it might be leaking internally. Check the vacuum hose, if you haven't yet (can't remember if you did already). You need to be positive that those are right, then check the AFM internals. If it looks like it's been messed with (the glue blob) then you can calibrate it using Used-to-be-Blue's technique on atlanticz.ca. After you've confirmed and/or fixed all of those things, the last one is to replace the ECU. But those usually cause much worse problems than you have. You have to be fastidious to really make good progress with the EFI systems.