Zed Head

Those are the tarp grommet fix. The hardest part is grinding or drilling the back of the post to remove it then welding or fastening it back on. It's simple in concept but takes some effort to get it done.

I don't think so. I meant to collect all of the tricks we've described in these threads, to replace the backing guide piece that broke on yours and others, and the roller itself, that broke on mine.

What does your tachometer do when you try to start it? The weird timing numbers and wet plugs suggest an ignition module problem. Too many ignition pulses (sparks). The 280Z ignition modules seem to die at a fairly constant rate. They're old.

Did you examine the two parts, side-by-side? Check the spring perch, push the rod in to the shock body, all the way down? You can do it by hand or by putting your body weight on it. It's actually good exercise. You have the KYB's right there, right? Give it a stroke. Measure the distance to the spring perch.

Just trying to help. Sorry, didn't really have a good picture of the ZX rear suspension. I guess it is a strut, by strict definition. Rockauto says that's the correct part. I could ask a bunch more questions but I don't have a ZX anyway. Who installed them, did you mess with the springs, did it ride correctly before, do the new ones look like the old ones, etc. The basics would be to check that the shocks aren't bottomed out. The springs hold the car up, the shocks might only add 1/4" from the internal gas pressure. Good luck.

I still like my idea for a quick check. You can feel .020" with your finger. 1/2 mm. Use a washer. Sometimes we get too caught up in having a number. The tables show the parts are supposed to be about the same dimension. The tables are actually kind of nonsensical when you really look at them. The ranges overlap. p.s. funny also that they have a huge error that they even converted to inches.

What are the part numbers and what is the car? The 280ZX does not have struts in the back. It has what's called a trailing arm suspension design.

You should inspect that roller closely while it's out. Maybe do the whole rebuild on the assembly.

That's a good one right? Your problem is a broken or missing one? That part is really just a "location" or spacing device. There are probably many ways to make something to do the job. Something like a split collar clamping device. In my case, the roller itself broke apart. So I had to remove the shaft and figure something out. It's the shaft removal and replacement that is difficult. I don't have a welder. Here are some examples of split collars. Metal would probably be "scrapy" in action. Plastic would be best. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=node%3D16411921&field-keywords=split https://www.grainger.com/category/shaft-collars/shaft-couplings-collars-and-universal-joints/power-transmission/ecatalog/N-1d90?refineSearchString=split&searchString=Shaft%2BCollars&ts_optout=true#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fshaft-collars%2Fshaft-couplings-collars-and-universal-joints%2Fpower-transmission%2Fecatalog%2FN-1d90Z1yyta09%2FNtt-split%3Fsst%3DAll%26ts_optout%3Dtrue http://shaft-collars-couplings.staffordmfg.com/viewitems/standard-round-bore-shaft-collars/two-piece-split-clamp-type-shaft-collars

Just had a thought about replacing that part - SteelStik epoxy. You can shape it in to the desired form and it will harden in place. It's like putty and won't run. If you don't want to grind the pin out then replace it. Do a test run to get a feel for how fast it sets up. Wear gloves. https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick

There's nothing that will jump, but it could be that your damper slipped. That would move the timing mark. Easy to check with the valve cover off. Vacuum to the distributor will increase timing advance, not decrease it. Not sure what's going on there. The quickest way to check the complete temperature sensor circuit is to measure resistance at the ECU connector. Pin 13 to ground. Then compare the value to the chart. The best drawings are in the EFI Guide, 1980 version. Shows the connector itself with numbered positions.

This is the closest I've found so far. But they just say "different". FE-6.

You'd need a separate circuit with a relay to check that bulb wouldn't you? As I understand the way it works the ground circuit for the bulb runs through a resistive element that doesn't pass current unless it's not covered by fuel. Exposed to air where it heats up and passes current. I've seen the description somewhere but haven't refound it yet. I've never seen my fuel light come on, but have pondered draining the tank to check it. My "E" seems to be set to about 13 gallons. I get too nervous to drive until the light comes on because I don't know if it works. I've wondered the same thing about the Charge light. Maybe it gets warm there.

Here's a good one in pdf format. Good old Blue246... http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Oddly, it's not in the CZCC Download area but it says it's a CZCC diagram. Edit - actually it is but you have to read the fine print. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

What do you mean by "backing plastic piece"? Most of the fixes end up using obscure local hardware store parts, or things from the internet, like tarp grommets. I think that you'll need to use your own ingenuity. But some pictures of what you're working with would help us generate ideas.

If I had the parts in front of me I'd put the spacer in to the hub by itself, with a solid flat piece on one end to set the surfaces. Then feel or eyeball the other side, just to see what's what. Might tell you something. I got my measurements backward, you're right, your hub is measuring too big. That's an odd one.

Your hub doesn't measure out as a B hub. Actually looks like it's out of spec. The race guys say that the hubs can get wallowed out over time. Or wallered out if you're in the south.

Easier to make fake Eibach's than KYB's. There are many stories on the internet about Eibach problems. It looks like somebody bought the name and is just putting the Eibach stamp on some new manufacturer's spring. People have to do extra work to make the car sit right. I'm surprised that people still buy them. No offense. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57267-eibach-progressive-springs/?tab=comments#comment-515491

Are you sure the holes aren't threaded already? Maybe some PO just lost the bolts and rigged up something to get by.

Looks great. The bumper rubber looks like 1978 though. Engine management and fuel pump control are slightly different in 78. 78 has two prongs on the oil pressure sender, one prong is a switch.

That's a good point. The top of the shock shaft has to fit in to the D shaped hole in the insulator. Maybe it's cocked or they messed it up somehow.

If the cop "saw" a modified exhaust and you are hiding your trick piece, won't the DMV still see the same modified exhaust? If they do, they can probably make you pay a bigger fine, and add one on top. Seems like a big risk just for the thrill. Everybody raises their kids differently but this seems like the complete opposite of the other thread about the brake light. It's a slippery slope.

Is the bottom of the spring rotated so that the end of the spring is at the end of the groove? The top perch will rotate. Might straighten things up a bit.

Don't confuse the way the spring looks with the "bumpy" ride. Whatever bumpy means. Probably not related at all.

Don't overlook that the DMV people probably see hundreds of guys like you over the course of a DMV career. Your camouflaged wires aren't going to fool them. Conning the cops is just a bad idea, in general. I had friends in high school that used to try it and it was always a bad idea, in the long run. They spent all of their driving time looking in the mirror. Add to that that your Z won't blend in to the crowd of other cars and you're just asking for a bunch of problems. The DMV will probably see that black paint as soot from running rich and tag you as a gross polluter.