Zed Head

I took your 80's hair-metal comment from the other thread, combined it with Pygmy Pony, and a Google search, and get a tenuous Frank Zappa link. Or this. Mug of mead anyone? - https://www.pygmypony.net/ What is the truth?

I would give the engine a full tuneup before getting too far in to the carbs. Valve lash, ignition timing, etc. Many tears have been shed and much time wasted just to find out that a simple tuneup did the trick. Plus, since you have a modified engine, I would check the engine basics, like cam timing and compression ratio. People often go off-spec. when they install their new performance cams. You don't know that the PO did things right. Your engine does sound odd in that short sound clip. Could be cam and/or ignition timing. Also still looks like you have two issues - dying at the lights when the engine gets hot, and getting the carbs synchronized. The tuneup procedure seems lengthy but it's not too bad. When you're done you'll know a lot more about what you're working with.

I'd like to see a system that sends you a text message when there's a problem. A true "idiot text".

I have an old set of 1978 injectors that looked worse than those. They sat on the non-running engine for 10 years. They guy I bought the car from had gotten the engine running before I bought it for parts so I don't know what state the fuel system had been in . I tested the injector flow rates later and they were all dead even. They opened and closed fine, nice solid clicks. I ran them on the engine for quite a while. I would just put new hoses on those old crusty injectors and use them. If you decide to clean them up don't get any moisture inside, at all. The metal inside is only meant to see gasoline and will rust quickly if any water gets in there.

Are you doing a resto? Need it shiny? I did a quick run around the internet and it looks like a hard-to-find piece. It's in the carpartsmanual list, but not the illustration. Then if you search the number you get on to a merry-go-round to other parts. I did find one picture of it on a ZX diagram though. Part #14710E. You can carry on from here. Good luck. I'll bet you could make a good facsimile by yourself with the right material and some tin snips. Here's the ZX illustration but there's no link to a part - https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1981-nissan-280zx/egr-parts.html?Diagram=147_A01 #57 here is a heat shield but it's not shown in the drawing - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-280Z/Manifold-Egr/From-Aug-76

Are you sure that you connected it properly? Didn't nick any wires? Don't put larger fuses in to fix a short circuit problem. Find the short and fix it instead. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/

Not sure what Nissan calls it but most of us call that the "dimmer switch". The power supply switch is the combination switch. Edit - actually Nissan calls the whole assembly the combination switch. But they do break it down in to sub-switches. Picture below. Dimmer. I thought the dimmer switch was pretty simple, parts-wise. Mine was "stuck" at no power to either circuit but dousing it with DeOxit and working it back and forth fixed it. Not sure how it could get stuck on high. I thought it was a toggle switch. If the lever moves, the switch contacts move. Anyway, I found some new news while I was looking for old pictures of what people have done with the dimmer. Dave Irwin has moved to Montana and doesn't rebuild switches any more. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/

That's a CO mod isn't it? Dang it. I want one.

Does it show in the FSM? You made me go out to the garage to confirm that my 76 has no light there. Maybe Nissan was foreshadowing. 76 FSM - Thy do show the Fuel Warning lamp -

Have you tried just turning up the idle speed? You could add a lot more detail about engine temperature and time. Does it happen immediately or after a long drive? Maybe you have the simple percolation problem, from a hot engine. Are your heat shields installed? Nissan wrote a whole book about the problem. Anyway, it's all in here. Good luck.

I meant that the actions taken on one carb should produce the same outcome for the other carb. If you had your eyes closed and somebody else tested the carbs you shouldn't be able to tell that the carbs were acting differently. Think of it as two 3 cylinder engines connected in the middle. If one carb gives a different result than the other that's not right. Could be the cylinders or it could be the carbs. A weak cylinder might explain the lumpy idle also. Just a possibility. Doesn't mean that there's damage. Could be valve lash adjustment, for example.

Nice car. Are you saying that one carb behaves differently than the other carb, when tuning? Like the front is different than rear? Are you sure that all six cylinders are fully functional? Just clarifying. I'm not a carb guy.

They fixed it in 76. No mention.

The pages are full of reminiscence and nostalgia lately so here's something else to look at. Potential projects. Probably get either for $1500. A good start for just getting a Z to try out and hoon around in. V8 it maybe. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1976-datsun-280z-price-drop/6748564378.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1975-datsun-280z/6748446757.html

It's on the SOLD! list at msclassiccars. Lots more info too. A build list with hours and parts costs. Looks like it was built to sell. It really does look more like that Gas Monkey car. They built it to show what they can do. All of the parts are the common names you see on the performance Z sites. http://msclassiccarsllc.com/VehicleDetails.aspx?vid=565 http://msclassiccarsllc.com/Vehicles.aspx?vid=40 It has Home Depot parts! Oh no... Just kidding...

Las Vegas 2018. Edit - got my dates wrong. In the video he says September 27-29, 2018. Did the sale fall through or is it back on the block by the new owner? Not sure why you'd put a fuel cell, with filler cap in the cabin, in a street car. A drop spilled and you're smelling gas for hours. Not my world. Just a watcher. Edit - why make a video but not show the car driving? A few engine revs and some idling.

Not much info available. Three things, below. There has to be details somewhere, nobody would bid on color and drive train alone would they? And I thought "Fairlady" was for Japan market cars. Seems "in your face" to put the wrong label on an American engine in a 240Z. An odd thing to do. The car seems kind of like that Gas Monkey car. Lots of show, but is it fun to drive? HIGHLIGHTS 5.7L engine 6-speed transmission Blue with Black interior

Found another though that shows his 1970 has the "L". I might be looking at the wrong part. Post #16. Either way, it looks simple enough to add or remove. There is a lot of slop from there to the master cylinder. It's not a precision piece.

I think I found a picture, from this link. Looks pretty simple to add one. Just line up the new hole with the old hole, and the "L" with the clevis. https://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Engine_Final_Install.htm

Found a picture just for fun. Didn't count links though. https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-280ZX-Engine-Timing-OSK/dp/B009GDG67S

The AAR has 12 volts at all times when the engine is running. You could put it on a switch if you want to test it as it's supposed to work. Have you tested for continuity to the AAR plug from pin 34 at the ECU? Maybe the ground circuit is missing.

No gaskets on the main cases, only the front cover. People like to use the Blue Hylomar non-hardening sealant. You can take it apart when you forget to do something. Your synchros look a little worn. Supposed to be even on both sides of the pyramid with a sharp point at the top. Hard to tell from pictures. There should be a gutter sticking out of the adapter plate. Might be broke off. Is it stuck to the drain magnet? Here's 1982.

Per the instructions I copied, your AAR is out of adjustment. Adjust it so that it is open on the average morning. It moves, which is good, but it's starting from the wrong spot. And you still have vacuum leaks.

The thermotime switch is on the circuit for the cold start valve. But the AAR shows a ground through the ECU, pin 34. Both madkaw and myself have mentioned that the AAR should be more open than a sliver. I can't remember what it looks like but Nissan provided a drawing. Pinch that hose when it's cold. If it splits fix it with a piece of heater hose. Then you'll know. But you still have vacuum leaks.

Be careful with the carb cleaner. It's a powerful solvent and will eat paint and swell seals.