Zed Head

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Does it have a 4 barrel carb and manifold? Just curious, I'd guess it does. Still, you gotta learn what those wires do. And you should do some inspection and maintenance on that ZX distributor. It's rusty and they are prone to breaking if the bushing gets worn.

Does the car run and drive now? It's sounding like you bought a ZX that's been modified and might not even run. Lots of things not connected. I think that there are other ways to use the MSD system, with the ZX module triggering the MSD. But, you don't know which wire is which so getting there would be quite a stretch for you. You'd be better off to learn how what you have works before trying to modify anything. You have a ways to go.

The green and red wires are your "mag pickup" wires. You'll have to extend them after you unplug them from the black box ignition module.. If you want to use the MSD system.

They do not. No offense but I'm not sure you know what the coil is. That black box in your last picture is the ignition module. You have a Nissan factory stock ZX distributor and ignition module. It's actually a very good ignition module. No significant reason to try an MSD ignition system. Your tach will probably stop working after you figure out where the wires go and get it connected. A common problem. By they, I mean these.

There are always at least two valves open in the engine. I've never been a big fan of that kind of test although it can be informative. You'll blow smoke through an open intake valve and can get leakage past the rings. Plus the PCV valve. Have you checked the PV valve? Don't forget that the FAST system is basically the same as the stock Nissan system. Same sensors, same responses. Tuneability to cover mistakes is better but you'll just be covering up problems. Still looks like you haven't really absorbed what we were saying - rich, wet, plugs is not typical of a vacuum leak. Not sure why you're looking for leaks.

Rockauto is my favorite spot to go just to see what's out there. Lots of long cylindrical choices, some are probably the same pump rebranded. One Beck Arnley. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

I zoomed in on your picture and it looks like you have a ZX distributor (spiky triangles). So there should be an ignition module on the side of it. Not sure who added the thick red wires. Might even be that somebody used a GM HEI module on the side of your ZX distributor. Take a good closeup, from the side, of whatever those red wires are connected to. You might have to remove it and use the wires that you can just see inside the edge of the distributor.

I used the Airtex E8312 for 30,000 miles with no problems, and quiet. I think it used to be the standard replacement pump at OReilly and other places. Used to cost about $90, cheaper now. What's wrong with the steel lines your car came with? https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8312-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7K

Find these...

Those would be the output wires from the MSD box, to control the coil. The wires with the ring ends are probably the mag pickup wires. Follow them and see where they go. The pickup is in the distributor.

You do realize that there are a lot of wires in your picture? Too early to be toasted...

I think that he's looking for a 280ZX expert or organization. There is no numbers-matching that you can do, Nissan didn't keep track and they didn't include the numbers on any name plates on the car. That's about the best-looking ZX that I've seen. The paperwork that you got with the car is the best authentication.

I think that there is plenty here for zdude to get it figured out. He got the engine started. Understanding which way the trigger in the distributor rotates will tell him which way to adjust the sensor to get more advance. Move the sensor in to the direction of rotation so that it triggers sooner. That wil increase advance. Your sensor looks like it is at full retarded timing. No more adjustment. zdude, you could even just move the sensor one way and see what happens to your timing, using the light. One of the directions will cause more advance. Move it more than you need and then you'll have adjustment at the distributor body itself. The key is knowing that you just need to loosen that screw and slide the sensor. Give it a tweak and see what happens.

Pretty sure that's what he meant. Take some time and mess around with it. The instructions describe rotating it until you get a spark.

There were four other people at $170,000 or better, It was a five bidder battle at extreme prices. Very weird. carco jumped $26,000 in one bid, from 144 to 170. Abby normal.

The owner, an expert in classic cars, apparently, had set his price at $140,000. Does he just not know what he's doing? What makes this car worth $310,000? And over $140,000 to six different people? For discussion, I don't have a clue.

Depends on what you mean by official. No, there is no government database of VINs for old cars. Newer cars VINs can be searched but not old Z's. Did you check my link? There's a lot in there.

Somebody start a Chat or send an email. Post this thread link, maybe they'll respond. https://eautosmart.com/consignment-centralstore/contact_us.html

Are you LightBlue?

I felt the same way about the car I was looking at. Too good to be true but the urge to do it anyway was high. Why don't you offer to buy it and see what happens next? I'll bet there's a point where you'll have to give something up, either a signed agreement or bank account numbers or something.

I compiled the last few bids in that thread. The seller, apparently, only wanted $140,000. The reserve was met at around that bid point. I assume that there is some final verification inspection before the money actually changes hands. Plus the fact that the buyer has to actually have the money, and be "real". BaT should have some sort of post-auction followup to show that it's not fake. Somebody just started a thread about 240Z that sold for $21,000 on BaT but now it's for sale again, apparently, for much less than $21,000. Hard to tell if the sales actually get completed. Hopefully, Marc Schiliro will followup. https://msclassiccarsllc.com/VehicleDetails.aspx?vid=751

Somewhere in the transaction I think that you will be required to put up some money, a deposit. For example, when buying a house in the States you have to deposit "earnest money" in an escrow account, typically up to 5% of the sale price. That money stays tied up until you either find that the seller has misrepresented something, and you get your money back, or the seller backs out and you get your money back. That is the risk. So, if you decide to do it, make sure that you have a very detailed list from the seller representing what is being sold. If the ad says "240Z with LS3 engine" but says nothing about the quality of the engine, you could be on the hook for a 240Z with a blown up engine. I would not be surprised if this was a "fishing" type ad. Get the earnest money or deposit from a prospective buyer, then make things so difficult that the buyer gives up and they keep the money. A guy in Helsinki is about as ideal as you could imagine for that scheme.