Zed Head

If you have a 280Z igniton system you want one of these manuals - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

We might all be getting distracted. Maybe you should check for spark. Could be a fuel supply issue. An easy test is to squirt starting fluid in to an intake manifold port then try to start it. If it starts for a second, you've been on the wrong track.

That would be good to know but it won't tell anything about the ignition system. There are a green and red wire coming from the direction of the distributor to the terminal block, in his picture. So odds are decent that it actually is a 280Z type system. But, there's no confirmation. Beside seeing the trigger system, if he removes the cap, it will be easier to explain about the air gap and the pickup coils. Notice also how dirty the terminal block and wires are. Could be a simple shorting out of the trigger pulse. What's kind of funny is that back in the days of points, removing the cap would probably be the very first thing a person would do if they had a spark problem.

The intake manifold and parts look like an 80-83 280ZX engine. I was serious when I said to remove the distributor cap, take a picture, and post it. Half of the ignition system questions will answered.

Other oddness - his picture shows the terminal block and wires for a dual pickup. But 78 supposedly doesn't have that option. And the module that EuroDat showed is for a single pickup, with a 78 plug connection instead of the earlier screw-terminal type. I've used a single pickup 78 module in my 76 dual pickup car though, so that swap is doable. Proposed next action - remove distributor cap and take pictures. Many questions will be answered. Edit - there seems to be an extra ground wire (although it looks red) on that terminal block also. Maybe a clue?

You haven't really described the "noise", beyond noise. Just saying...

The mustache bar bushings are known for transmitting gear noise from the diff in to the body and cabin. Usually noticed on the highway when cruising along. Or they're noted for being loose and letting the diff move when shifting, causing a thump. Not really known for bump noises. You might be looking at the wrong area.

Is it sure that the distributor is the 280Z unit? I can't tell from just looking at the cap in the picture, but the idle speed screw is ZX style so it looks like somebody stuck a complete engine in. Could be a ZX distributor. And they have their own set of problems, with loose bushings, broken reluctor magnet rings, and modules that experience sudden death. Which it is changes the thought processes. Would be worthwhile to take a close look at it. Look for the "black box" on the side of the unit. Here's a picture from atl Z. And a link showing the problems and parts. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

These engines are prone to detonation and detonation is a very powerful force in the combustion chamber that can cause damage. When you advanced the timing you made detonation more likely. Or, it's just got miles on it and it finally let go when you were hooning around enjoying the extra punch. Pretty cool though, how these guys narrowed it down to the exact cylinder and details of what you would see, huh? Wizards. Now you can start a new thread soon, titled "how do I remove this broken bolt/stud fragment from my head/block/whatever". It will be fun.

Nice detective work. I've heard of the pickup coils dying and actually have a bad one in the garage. That's a simple meter test. He could also trigger a spark through the coil discharge wire, and watch it with his timing light, by grounding the negative post quickly (tapping to ground with a lead wire) with the key on. Make and break. At least he'd know that the coil can produce a spark and the path to the discharge wire is intact. Just need to get through the basics before suggesting a ZX distributor or HEI module.

There are several tests you can run described in the FSM. Not sure what "book" you're referring to, but it seems like the wrong one, considering the next-to-the-battery module location. You didn't say what year 280Z either. Use the Factory book from the Downloads area. You have power to the coil. It's not likely a loose wire on the input side. It's probably the module itself or the pickup coil in the distributor. Do the simple meter tests shown in the Engine Electrical chapter.

If it's coolant then it would be a head gasket, probably. There are other possibilities. Hope for a blown head gasket.

Don't get crazy swapping parts. You're a little off on how the system works. There's not supposed to be voltage from the coil to the cap until spark happens. Then it's one giant blast of voltage that would blow up your meter if you tried to measure it. The fact that you have power to the coil implies that it's a module or triggering problem. The pickup coil inside the distributor does the triggering.

The smoking gun. What grade of fuel have you been using?

Another way of saying it is that the front mount is too far forward when you use that mustache bar. Somebody had a similar problem very recently, but with an R180. When you said "hitting" it made it sound like an obstruction issue. I think that you meant :"landing" or "locating" or "ending up". The holes don't align. I've read of people flipping the front mount. Don't know how much it buys you, but I think it helps for some applications.

You're in solving the puzzle mode. Anything you learn will probably be completely useless for future endeavors. Like understanding how the BCDD works. No offense to those who understand how it works. I'm just jealous.

Actually the timesert will be under tensile force after torquing, pulling up on the cylinder head threads. And the seating surface of the pivot on the cylinder head, after torquing, should prevent rocking or side movement. That's probably the most important consideration. Be sure the timesert is below the surface of the head after insertion. The pivot should't seat on the top of the timesert.

That's pretty funny. I misunderstood the question myself. The most useful answer, although not a direct answer, computing all supplied details is - the 1975 spare tire is already a tubeless rim and tire combination. If it has a tube it's because somebody put one in afterward. To the side bar though - I don't think that running a tubeless tire on a tube type rim is done all the time. The rim has to be designed and sealed to prevent leaks. There's no need to do that if the manufacturer knows there will be a tube in there.

You'll end up with a low compression ratio. The P79 head has a larger combustion chamber and those ZCD pistons are dished. They'll fit but lower engine performance. Do you have something against forged pistons or are you trying to save money? Do you need oversize? Rockauto has the basic cast pistons that seem to work for a lot of people. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209350,engine,piston+/+piston+ring+kit,14008 I've read somewhere that Datsun Spirit can get pistons. https://datsunspirit.com/

Jeff G's #7 post shows a lot more than just ovaling two holes. And the part is "wrong" because it's an R180 bar in an R200 application. It's a 1975 280Z which he says came with an R200, and it's well after the diff-moving redesign. He messed up the R200 bar but still has it so should be able to set the bars side-by-side to see the differences.. Might have noticed something before the 6 hour session. In this case two wrongs make a doubly wrong. It's the wrong wrong bar. But it's also possible that some other part is out of alignment, since everything was removed. Might try assembling things with the old bushingless R200 bar and see if it sits in the right spot. The washers will still hold it in place but let it hang lower and be misaligned. But you'll be able to see if things are off at the bar or somewhere else.

You're right. That oil filter needs new paint. Good luck!

Z Car Source has been a mystery to me, just an internet name that sells parts. Interesting that there's actually a person or persons behind the name that will actually give advice. Bad, in your case. Did you talk by phone, or text, or email...? And, by the way, those aren't what we would call control arms. Although I think that Nissan might call them links, maybe of the transverse kind. Most people think of control arms as the part between the body and the wheel hub. (Actually, that whole statement about control arms doesn't really jibe with the mustache bar issue. Not clear where control arms entered the picture.)

Tubes can generally be inserted in to any tire and rim combination. You have to be sure that there are no sharp points or edges on the rim, or the inside of the tire though. And, as you mentioned, finding a tube with the valve stem in the right spot is important to avoid twisting the tube. Finding the right tube might be difficult. Chickenman says it's done all the time so he'll probably have a manufacturer and model number. You might have some luck searching the tire size and "tube" on the internet. I just went through a similar exercise with a wheelbarrow tire. I taped up the inside of the rim with duct tape, but had to use a poor fitting valve stem. I'll just limit my top speed to 2 mph instead of letting it rip at 3.

I don't think that coil gets power from the TIU, Both the TIU and the coil might get power from the same circuit though. The TIU just sits at the end of the coil primary circuit (the wire from the negative coil terminal) and opens and closes it based on the signal it gets from the green and red wires from the distributor. You can connect those green and red wires to any of a number of ignition modules. Points also sit at the end of the coil primary circuit. But points use a mechanical method, the lobes on the shaft, to open and close the circuit. Points are kind of like a TIU inside the distributor cap. Some thoughts that might help you figure out how to make a system work.

Howdy folks. A materials person here. Don't overlook that "PU" covers a huuuuuuugge range of physical properties, from goo to rock-hard. These guys seem to have addressed the issue. Don't know if they got it right or not, but they are aware. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/whiteline-differential-moustache-bar-bushing-kit-w91045-datsun-240z-260z-280z/ If I had the free cash I'd try a set just to see what they ended up with. I reduced the diff warbling with my PU bushings significantly by extending the length of the inner sleeve for the mustache bar mount. For whatever reason, many PU mustache bar bushings have a shorter inner metal sleeve than the PU bushing, which compresses the PU against the washers, creating a solid path to the cabin for the diff noise. I used washers to extend the sleeve. Many of the aftermarket parts out there require a little bit of finishing work, in my opinion, to get them how you like them.