Zed Head

I think that you meant condenser or capacitor. It's there to suppress radio (electromagnetic) noise but if the positive wire touched ground it could have damaged internal components, I'd guess. I think that they might be available at the parts store from one of the displays, not the behind the counter stock. I reread your work in Post 172 and don't really see signs that anything is bad, the voltage readings are good. The external regulators allow up to 15 volts. But it's hard to tell sometimes with charging system problems. I had one internally regulated alternator go bad in my car and the vvoltmeter showed everything was right, the voltage showed battery level when the engine was off, and proper charging and voltage limiting when it was on. But the red light would glow brighter with RPM, like a little visual tachometer. I decided that wasn't right and replaced it. On my car that had the dim-then-bright headlights, there was no sign either. No engine light or dying battery. Just weird behavior.

I suggested the alternator because of the dash lights going from bright to dim constantly (post 172). I had a car that did that with a bad alternator, at idle. I only noticed it at home when my headlights were shining on the garage door. I forgot that she had a 76 with an external regulator so didn't mention it. And with the internal regulators most of us just think of the whole thing as an alternator (which is really an odd name for it anyway - we need an alternative). It might be some other flasher related thing. Maybe the hazard switch? Not sure how, just thinking outside the alternator. If it's reproducible, Jai could run on battery power alone and see if it goes away, as a test. The parts store guys are only trained in finding the right plug, attaching the belt, pushing the button, and reading the result. Sometimes it's just a green light (good) or a red light (bad). Finding the right plug is the hardest part of the process, from what I've seen.

Sorry about the misunderstanding on my part. I had assumed what made sense to me, that width meant tread width. The sidewall-to-sidewall width seems of little use, compared to tread width since rubber on the ground is the main purpose of being a tire. Weird that this labeling scheme has lasted so long, it's a lot less meaningful than I thought. There's no way to calculate tread width. So thanks for the TireRack link, it has immense value now. No offense I hope, if I add a few more references. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_code https://www.goodyearautoservice.com/en-US/tire-basics/tire-size https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/understanding-tire-sizes-and-types

Gear ratios are the same, regardless. That's all that really matters, within the possibilities. Edit - Just realized that I responded quickly, without a full think-through. 79 and 80 are ZX's. Anyway, unless it's some weird truck transmission, it should be a direct replacement.

The above is true. I had a set of 205-70-14's that rubbed on tight hard corners and the same size of a different brand didn't. The car's lowered about an inch. I think the 205 is the width of the tread. Sidewall width isn't defined.

Looks like a 77-79 5 speed. Two exhaust hangers, and no access plate on top like the 4 speeds have. The 79 ZX had the same 5 speed as the Z's. Should slot right in to where your old one was, no diff changes necessary.

Is it this one? - http://www.daytona-sensors.com/tcs-1--timing-control-system.html Looks like it doesn't actually have its own ignition (coil current control) module. And it requires a VR or optical input. What kind of distributor did you start with? And what ignition module are you using to control coil current? Looks interesting, but not clear that it's their fault it didn't work. http://nebula.wsimg.com/7d1431ada7cf5b57349f7457275d1d1a?AccessKeyId=1C3246E298A5DEFACC7D&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

You need to add some numbers. You "checked" a bunch of things, but, as you said yourself, you don't even know what "good" is. Provide the numbers and we can tell you. Ignition timing, cylinder pressures, fuel pressure, year of the wiring diagram you're using and where it came from, etc. 1978 didn't use a crank sensor. The 1980 fuel injection book covers all years up to 1980. Use it to test electrical components, using a meter. If you do, write the numbers down.

Could be a PO "tuned" the engine around the low fuel pressure. Now that you have it corrected, the "tuning" might need to be undone. There are many small things that need to be right for the engine to run right. You have a long path ahead of you, especially with a turbo engine. a turbo engine running lean due to low fuel pressure could easily suffer detonation and break some ring lands or damage a piston. You should really start with the basics and measure cylinder pressure, valve lash, timing, etc. to be sure that they are correct. Unknown engines can be full of small problems and mis-adjustments. Check your cylinder head temperature sensor resistance, and connection, maybe you'll get lucky and find that it's disconnected or broken. That would cause rich running.

Did you modify the vacuum advance or the centrifugal? Why don't you just bypass the Daytona thing, whatever it is?

A yard sale? What kind of yards do you live by? So a Nissan deanship diagnosed it, replaced the FPR, and it runs worse? Doesn't sound like much of a dealership. Did they tell you anything before they did the work? If you had a dealer replace the FPR then, unfortunately, an 83 Turbo might be difficult for you. It's not the best car to learn on.

K-Tee bid but someone else got it. He's still looking.

I'd get a different pump. There are plenty that will pull the fuel up a short way so that you can mount it in a better spot. The pump that needs to be below the fuel level is more useful for a truck or some other vehicle with a high fuel tank. Not a Z.

Three shoulds and a probably. Good luck.

If you provided a measurement, it might help your cause.

What year is your car? The Z's used a full size tire up to 1977. And you just mentioned that the hub size is your problem but the hub fit shouldn't have anything to do with the brake calipers. Not really clear what's "not fitting".

Could be the alternator going bad. The varying and weak voltage are signs. Good luck.

A good alignment shop can tell you if the wheels were shifted in the accident. The fact that the top of the strut is bent gar enough to interfere with the hood should lead to at least a camber change. Camber is not adjustable on these cars without aftermarket parts. The brake problem sounds like the front calipers need bleeding. The fact that it hasn't been completed suggests that the calipers might have been accidentally swapped. My car did the same thing, the pedal dropped, the light came on, and only the rear brakes actuated. Easily fixed though when you know what the problem is. The wheel can be easily centered, via several means. See the link from K-TeeZ, above, there's a picture showing where the stamp is that shows engine size, on the side of the block.

The auction ends in 4 hours and 24 minutes. Not much time. Are you looking to buy it or just getting in to the 240Z world?

Click the green button (I cut a picture out for you) and start a new thread. There's probably still some talking to do about this car. http://www.classiczcars.com/forum/61-open-s30-z-discussions/

I bought my 1995 Pathfinder new in 1994 and have never bled the brakes or changed the fluid. 254,000 miles. Just taking the side, for counterpoint to the trend here, of the basic premise of the longer hose argument. If it ain't squishy, don't bleed it.

Not really clear what you're trying to describe above. You said the brakes worked. apparently you mean the brake lights? Then the STOP fuse blew? Did the "brakes" stop working then? You said the hazards worked, but then you said they don't work "still". They either worked then a fuse blew and they stopped working, which means there's a short somewhere, or you're describing two different things.

I think that Diseazd is saying that some of the available stainless lines are already longer than rubber. You might not need custom lines unless you want extra long. MSA and others sell the stainless replacements.

You can look at the angle of the half shafts to the wheels and tell if the diff is still forward or has been moved back. The shafts will be at a 90 degree angle if the diff has been moved back, but will have an obvious forward tilt if the diff is in the forward position. Or you can measure the propeller shaft. As I understand it, the A and B transmissions used the same length propeller shaft. But the forward mounted diff used a shorter drive shaft.

Did you post this same question on Hybridz? Are you sure the distributors are different? You're posting years but not mentioning the matchbox ignition module. Does one have the E12-80 and one not?