Zed Head

Thanks. I thought about looking there but assumed that I would have seen it in the past. It's one of my favorite sites. Looks like it mounts in front of the radiator, if that sketchy drawing is showing what I think it is. Unless it's a replacement for the pump-driven fan. The most interesting part might be the "switch thermo". Some of us have spent much time trying to find one that has the right temperature range to run a fan. Seems to be discontinued though.

We've had other threads where we tried to figure out what, exactly, is the difference between the part numbered AFM's and never came up with anything, that I can recall. I've had 75-78 in my 76 and they all ran the same. And now I have a 78 engine in my 76 with a 76 AFM and it works fine, although there are a variety of tuning aids on the engine. On top of that, 70's fuel is probably not the same as today's fuel. But, in short, whatever the differences are among the AFM's, they're small. Nothing to worry about. No engine damage will happen.

Thanks, looks like it has the Nissan A31 number, along with an extra number. No simple Bosch number comparisons. Dang.

I'd install them while the diff is out. Much easier to test both ways. They should snap in firmly with a rubber hammer or block of wood and stay in place, then take some effort to lever back out. The axles are designed to have them (edit - the rings) in place in the diff. You should be able to install and remove them (edit - the axles) multiple times. I think that I've seen people use a socket of the right size to push the rings in to the groove. The hard part is getting them started. @jmortensen knows how to do it I think. Might have better luck on Hybridz. I've seen people have some problems with that.

p.s. I'm not saying there isn't a fan. I just want to see what it looks like and where it mounts.

No offense intended zspert. I thought it was a humorous way to acknowledge that you've been a member for 15 years, and that your last two posts (50% of your content at the time of my post) were in 2013. Then you posted two within minutes of each other. In person, it might have been "dude, where have you been?!". Which some people probably would think is rude, if they were present. Humor can be a complex subject. Welcome (back) to the forum. You can probably add a lot, with your experience, if you want to, and can stand an occasional joke. Not all of us have the microfiche. So, if anyone wants to share, feel free.

What's up with this recent barrage of posts? Your post rate has increased exponentially! Does anyone have a drawing of the fan? Does it look like the ZX fan, mounted on the valve cover?

My mistake. Should have seen that. My 76 still has the engine number on the plate too. The seller reported the correct number, I screwed up. Looks legit.

Thanks for getting back with the results. Looking at the diagram and thinking hydraulically I can't see how the valve sticking open would block pressure from the rear system. Unless the seal was sitting over the orifice, blocking it, and the fluid was just passing through the open valve to pressurize the front system. Seems like an open valve should have just acted like a single piston system. Anyway, sometimes just taking things apart and putting them back together has results. Carry on.

It's a 78, pretty sure, I got it from a 1978 parts car that seemed all original. The fuel pump pins are "useless" as I showed above, post #8, with the Nissan wiring diagram. Nissan probably had old AFM's in stock when they made the model switch. If you can get the part number from the board that would be cool. No picture necessary, although pictures do add something.

The topclassics ad says Corvallis, OR. Quite a ways from Vancouver, WA. Odd that he advertises on the Seattle CL for a Vancouver car. Seems like that car would have made it to the Canby show at least once. VIN 6582. Edit - wait...the topclassics ad shows a different VIN. Not sure what's going on here. Scam or different but identical cars. Second edit - the topclassic ad shows the 6582 VIN in a picture but reports another. Maybe it's one of those VIN hybrid cars. Run away!.... Trim: Stock Year: 1970 Mileage: 249000 VIN: HLS3003543

The AFM cover was the typical green Nissan label. If later AFM's use the same board the odds are good, I think, that the "tuning" is the same. Anybody got a 1978 handy? I think I sent mine to @rcb280z I have an MSA AFM on my car now. MSA says that Fuel Injection Corp. uses a thicker material on the conductive pattern to make it more durable.

Here's a start. An A31 060 001 from a 1975 280Z, I think. Kind of looks like a Bosch part number on the board, but it says OHMIC. 1 288 310 011 with a big 7444 beside it.

Seems reasonable. The ZX's used a different ECU also. I wonder if the circuit boards inside might be the same. Something we can compare without too much trouble. Probably have numbers.

I meant the hole that the fluid passes through when the piston pressurizes it. Not clear (to me) what plunger you're describing. Sounds like you had already taken it apart, unless you work really fast. Here's the link to the site's file collection area. Lots of good things in there. Clickable menu on the right side. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

The sig only shows up to other people if they're signed in. Guess I missed it, I read the posts and only sign in if I want to say something. Seems like you might just have a piece of seal stuck in your rear orifice. Ha ha. Couldn't resist. But it seems possible, based on the picture, below. That would give front pressure only. This picture is from the 1970 FSM, available from the site's Download area. Pretty easy to remove the MC and look around. The MC is easy to take apart also.

Yes, the bolt pattern is a known thing. MSA mentions it, and shows the other bracket on the bottom of their AFM page. I've seen people zip tie them in place. Somebody with free time, a leaf blower, a battery, and a meter must have the urge to compare AFM's. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040

I don't think that Nissan changed the calibration of the AFMs over the 280Z years. The engines are essentially identical. And the atlanticz calibration procedure is not year specific so it won't help, unless somebody else messed with it and you want to get back to spec. And, I have a 1978 AFM that has the fuel pump contact switch. It's just not used. The 1978 wiring diagram even shows it but labels it as "useless". Anyway, if it's a new MSA refurb product you probably don't want to mess with it. Just put it on and run it. Mess with it if it has problems.

Didn't know you were doing a restoration. Actually don't even know what year you have. Many ways to get it done. Here are the Rockauto pages showing the difference between 71 and 73. Add some detail and the resto guys will have answers. If the MC is bad, the Master-Vac might be also. Better check that too. It's another hard to find part. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1971,240z,2.4l+l6,1209158,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

Probably easier and more effective to buy a reman MC. The kits can be expensive, if you can find the right one, while a reman MC is fairly cheap. The various brake and clutch cylinders go bad easily if they sit unused. Might as well take yours apart before buying a kit, to be sure the cylinder isn't pitted. If it's pitted, it's toast. Here's the 1972 diagram showing how the front and back are "stacked". One pushes the other.

Those are common Bosch injectors for the NA ZX engines. It's not clear if Nissan installed them or they are a common dealer replacement but many ZX's have them. I picked up a set myself from a wrecking yard car. Here's a recent re-energized thread about them. The last post is informative. The picture below shows the Nissan version of what you have. Put some new fuel injector hose on after getting them cleaned and they should work fine, unless they've been exposed to moisture. Apparently the innards rust easily. The hose replacement procedure is in the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM.

Your symptoms seem to indicate that the brakes don't need bleeding, that you're done. Or that the NP-valve is clogged. With the bleed valve open in the back does any fluid come out of the hose when you press the pedal? Make sure the bleed valve is fully open. Won't hurt to blow a bunch of fresh fluid through the lines. A speed bleeder valve helps a lot to just purge the system. Pump the pedal and keep the reservoir filled.

Post a picture. Stand it on end so that people can imagine it taking up not much space in their garage. Put two starter bolts in so you don't damage the input shaft. Put a bow on it.

Green is the color of Nissan NA units, but it's also a common aftermarket color. They're probably Nissan NA injectors. We still like to look at pictures though.