Zed Head

Not uncommon for an adapter plate (center plate) bearing to fall apart. Do you have pictures of the parts that came out? Those are clues about where the damage is.

But the number in the eBay ad for 3543 is different, copied it below. Might be some local guy trying to start a vintage car business. Who knows. Sketchy stuff. ** you can inspect Car before You Bid Not ** **Not After Call Direct 971.336.2832**

Actually it's in Portland. The seller is moving, probably to LA.

Early 280ZX sounds right. The later years had an extra pin on the module, to change timing for emissions reasons. E12-92 and -93 I think. E12-80 is the basic module. Your simplest route to best performance from the system is to download a 1979 FSM and match the coil specs, and spark plug gap. A stock 00.84 - 1.02 ohm coil will give better performance than a Flamethrower probably. Nissan balanced the parts, the module and the coil, for best performance.

Here's my favorite junk yard search tool - https://row52.com/Search

Holy moly. I found a Pick n Pull in Rhode Island. Might be worth a look. Pick n Pull salvages what they can before melting the cars down. They're owned by a steel company, the salvage parts are gravy to them. They make their money on the steel. Of course, the whole northeast and all of its states is about as big as Oregon so there are many options. Good luck.

People have rebuilt severely damaged transmissions like yours and had good results but often when there is that much metal flying around there is a lot of extra damage. Beyond the damage a typical rebuild will fix. One damaged gear replacement could cost as much as having a used transmission shipped. Take some better closeups and post them. We like to look at damage.

It looks like a 280Z with the Jim Cook body kit, and the stock running gear, from what's been shown so far. So, 280Z EFI straight six. You're in the right place if you want to get it running. The tires are shot though, and there will be some work if you want to get it running and drivable. You won't find a better site for help to get it back up and driving. Good luck. Sorry site. Truth...nice to see another name on top.

Sandpaper and elbow grease. Seems like the walls must be too thick to fit in the gap. Take a picture of the back of the cap. Take some measurements. Things will become clear. Even then you might have to get all Hulk on the dust caps. You don't want to leave your bearings exposed.

Hanford? Just guessing. Looks military. Edit - plus I found Selah...

You left out the part where the body mods are added. Those fenders, headlights and other parts don't come on "new" 280Z's. The shifter looks like a Z shifter. But the back tires don't look like L6 tires. It might be more show than go. No offense to your Grandma, or the guys that built it for her. Where is Selah?

Probably some interesting stuff in there. The car is in Gresham, which is not that far from Portland. The guy bought a 240Z and a Trans Am and is now selling both. Might just be somebody trying to find the sports car he really wants. I see a V8 Z in his future.

Did you press the brake pedal at the same time? There's no reason for pressing the clutch pedal to cause it to die unless you have a loose wire under the dash. The clutch system is completely separate from the engine control system. But the brake pedal does pull vacuum when you press it, and a bad booster can cause a vacuum leak. An easy way to separate fuel supply from electronics is to try starting fluid. If it starts then dies with each squirt of fluid then it's probably a fuel supply problem, either from the tank or from the injectors. If it doesn't start with fluid then it might be something like the ignition control module. I had a bad 1978 ECU in the past also. It would just die completely, then restart after waiting. Anyway, starting fluid will tell you if you have good spark and timing. Make sure you squirt in to the intake manifold itself through a vacuum port.

It's just a conversation. The guy is not here although he might be a viewer. I can imagine the new owner coming on to the site excited about the 58,000 mile 240Z he just bought then seeing all of the evidence that it might be at least 100,000 miles more, maybe 200,000. That would be a bummer.

That might be what the current seller tells people. I think that we're just trying to figure out what's going on. If the current seller bought it from the 249,000 mile guy then he must know it was advertised as 249,000 miles. So how do you go from 249,000 down to 49,000? At the least he should use the old rule of looking at whether the numbers are on the same line. If they're not it's turned. going from 249 to 149 seems reasonable, but down to 49 looks odd. Not saying he is a scammer, just saying he looks like he might be one. Nothing wrong with going in with eyes open. Somebody should do him a favor and tell him his ads show inconsistency with past history. He should explain that. Provenance and history are a big deal on these old cars, aren't they? If it was just the little space oneBay where you type the odometer reading in that's one thing but he called out and proclaimed in a specially written sentence that it was low mileage. No question. And said it's been garage kept "All It's Life". And on top of it, he screwed up the grammar...its.

I kind of feel like I'm harassing you but I'll give another shot. Break your problem down in to what is supposed to happen and compare it to what really happens. And try some of the things that people suggest. At this point, you should have tried pinching the hose. This would have confirmed that the hose routing is correct. You should also have connected the AAR to the plug and confirmed that it was closing when the engine was running. Your last post suggests that it is not closing, or that the hoses are incorrectly routed. Pinch the hose after the engine gets up to speed. If idle speed drops the hoses are correct, if they don't then they're not. If idle speed drops then disconnect the hoses and take the AAR, or take your spare AAR, and connect it to the power plug, in a position that you can see the blade. Confirm that the AAR closes when the engine is running. If it doesn't than make sure the plug has power with the engine running. Good luck. Write things out in the sequence that they are supposed to happen and things will become clear. You've covered the basics but just haven't put them in order.

Forgot to say, the other simple test to see if the AAR passage is open but the AAR not closing is to pinch the hose shut. If the hoses are new you can do it, if they're old stock hoses they might split. Which is another possible reason that the AAR doesn't work right. The hoses are split.

He probably bought it from the 249,000 mile guy and is now only reporting the odometer numbers as he tries to sell it. Sketchy.

Same garage. I'm feeling stalky. Some guy with a car hobby, making room for new ones maybe. Or a car flipper.

Actually I saw your post on that other site. Can you raise the idle speed using the TB adjustment? Raise the cold idle speed and see if it gets too high when the engine is warm. That's a clue. If you can't get the cold idle speed up then you have some other problem besides the AAR. So you might be over-focusing on adjusting the AAR. If the AAR is open then the other possibility is that it never closes while it's on the engine. Have you confirmed that the AAR plug has power? It should have constant power when the engine is running. If it doesn't have power then it will take a long time to close, or might never close if the coolant block under it doesn't get hot. If you really want to test the function of the rest of the system, without the AAR in place, buy a small valve, put a couple of hose barbs on it, and put it in place of the AAR. Start the engine and open the valve until you have the idle speed you want. As the engine warms up, idle speed will increase. When the engine is hot, close the valve, the engine speed should drop. Adjust idle speed to desired warm engine level. Do this a couple of times and you'll have a good feel for what the AAR is supposed to do.

Seems worth contacting the seller, if anyone is really interested. Could be a car flipper. Just noticed another discrepancy. Two owner now, not three, or four, depending on if the third owner actually sold it. Another one of those odd Z's that floats around the selling sites.

The Contact Seller! link still opens up if somebody wants to see what's what. Of course, you can contact the seller on the eBay ad too. Might be different people.

Here's the part about 249,000 miles, from the topclassics ad. Hate to say it but it looks like somebody decided to fudge the history to improve the odds of a sale. Plausible deniability, since the odometer doesn't do 100's. Probably drove it 8,000 miles while trying to sell it. The internet is watching...

Never mind. I don't know. Measuring and comparing to 7tooZ's would help. Can't tell if the small marks are small or just not white.

That one's been up before. It has some rust through in the rear quarter and the lower front fender. If it was a mouse home for 23 years that would affect any buyers that took a look. I had a 78 parts car that was ruined by mice. Just guessing about why it hasn't sold. Lots of money up in the Seattle area.