Zed Head

Try pulling a plug and squirting directly in to the cylinder. But, maybe, be sure that the carbs are opening. The SU's are an odd carb, with a piston that rises to let air in based on intake vacuum. The SU guys will know more but I think it's possible that the carbs are stuck shut. So the starting fluid won't make it through. Just a guess.

This part might have been overlooked. It's a very nice looking car but it's unclear why it was parked. Also, after 15 years the cylinders can get pretty dry. If the ATF just ran to the bottom of the cylinder you might still have six dry bores. Squirt some some 30 weight in there all over the place, to get the rings to seal. I remember getting a free 1963 Bonneville if me and my friend could get it started. We spend half a day leaned over the engine bay when a farmer came by on his tractor. He said "try squirting some oil in the cylinders". We did and it fired right up. This was after getting towed down a country road at 50 mph because we had heard that even automatic transmissions will drive the engine if you go fast enough. Ridiculous, in retrospect. ("Retrospect"...who came up with that word?).

Here's some used ones. You probably want to confirm the shape of the plug though. There seems to be confusion out there. https://zcarsource.com/gauges-relays-motors/relays-sensors/ignition-relay It's just two relays in one box.

Out here, you can crack the window open for about half the year. I spent some time in Mississippi. I'm familiar.

Funny, I did the exact same thing, but haven't had it checked. I was lucky enough to find an old-timer, retired, who was selling off his old stock. He described how to get close on setting the air. Wish there were more videos out there about it but the burner guys probably don't want everybody eyeball-tuning their burners. I think I've watched all of Lavimoniere's videos. They're entertaining. I've used diesel in my tank when I got low. Heating oil is dyed red to show that it hasn't had the road tax applied. I think it might be illegal to use it in a vehicle. I'm sure that guys in the know do though.

Not to be negative, but what stops the engine from moving sideways? The bolts will have a large lever acting on them and there are no bolsters to keep it in place. If you crank the bolt down on the puck then you'll have a solid metal path from engine to body. You might find that you can get some movement just by hand if you grab the top of the engine and shake. If you examine the stock mounts, from front to back, you'll see that they all have a break in the metal path, and they all have a back stop of metal in case things move. Everything is floating on rubber. Something to consider. The transmission mount is considered the third engine mount by Nissan.

The one thing about heat pumps is that they're slow and they run almost all of the time because of it. Kind of noisy. My neighbor installed one a couple of years ago and now the silence of night is replaced by the hum of a motor.

Truck and a hose. I watch the spot price sometimes to try to save a few dollars.

Points are very simple (no offense) they close and current flows through them and to ground, they open, current stops, and spark happens. Make sure that the other side of the points has a good ground back to the battery/alternator, and that the points actually close to make the circuit, and that they fully open to break it. You have to make it and you have to break it. You can test both with a meter, under the distributor cap, with the key on. Everything is exposed and ready for poking. Not sure what "coil has spark" means either....

p.s. the 280ZX relays are the same except that they added a separate ground pin, instead of grounding through the mounting points.

The BE chapter has several schematics that should let you figure out what's what. I think that it's essentially just two 4 pin relays in the same box. I couldn't find a single picture that showed every pin, but here's one that shows one side. You other option is to just take the old one apart and copy it.

What do you guys burn up there? I'm still on oil. It's a dying technology around here I had to learn how to rebuild my own furnace.

This option seems like a good one. A reputable manufacturer. It's a carrier swap so a little more involved than a bolt-in Whitehead diff. It's new, not used, although Nissan diffs seem to last many many miles with no issues. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/ Anybody noticing how you can't just paste a link anymore? You have to use the little link function at the top. Weird. Sometimes a paste works sometimes it doesn't.

Get one of these. Before you break the rubber mount and maybe the strap, and tear up your parking brake linkage. https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

You'll probably notice that a part of each cam lobe has a brown stain, where the rocker arm did not wear on it. That is the base circle, where you'll be setting the "lash", or gap. You don't have to be exact on the cam lobes up or down, you can also check that you're around the middle of the stained area. Some people take pride in doing them hot, but many just do them all cold, then check them when hot. They're usually still in spec. One tip - use a heavy hammer to tap the lock nut loose. They can be incredibly tight. Many of us have oil in our blood now from busting knuckles while adjusting valve lash. Here's the 1976 specs.

You would measure from prong to ground, for each prong. Edit - that would be with the sender in the block. Otherwise, measure from prong to sender threads. Grounding is through the threads. One will be a switch and the other a variable resistance. It's weird how bad the 280ZX FSM's are, considering how good the last 280Z FSM's were. But I did find it illustrated on page EL-90. I don't think that they wrote a single word about the oil pressure sender. This diagram is all there is. @alanburton

I would check/set the valve lash, since you already have the cover off. The early engines had weak valve seats, designed for leaded fuel. Then you won't have to wonder about it if odd things happen. It's the very first item in the Nissan tuneup sequence also.

Alright, so what the heck is going on? Rod is restoring the car for hiyabrad? Anyway, looks like fun. @hiyabrad @Rod's Garage @lonetreesteve

You said you wanted narrow band...? Just trying to help. Good luck.

I've used an old fan belt, like a strap wrench but fits a smaller spot. If you squeeze the belt together with one hand you can generate solid clamping force on the pulley, kind of like creating a handle on the pulley. Sometimes you can even pull on the existing fan belt or turn the water pump pulley by hand, or both. You can also put it in high gear and rock a wheel.

Check for mouse nests. They like the blower housing and the top of the glove box.

Narrow band is very limited in application. Wide band gives you what you said you wanted. Unless you're really trying to "outdo" the engineers that didn't make narrow band sensors work for AFR measurement. Or you aren't looking for accuracy. Good luck. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor#Wideband_zirconia_sensor http://www.walkerproducts.com/o2-sensor-training-guide/history/

I remember that number. Are you a business? Google doesn't find much for Rod's Garage. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-/352480358337?_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l44720&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true

The FSM says you should be fine with just replacing the BCDD. No need to do the TB too.

https://www.haltech.com/wideband-o2-sensors-explained/