Zed Head

You missed this one, above. I left out the word "how". Those are mistakes though. The Honda guy did his on purpose. It diminishes the impact of what he's saying, dramatically. Plus the fact that he's just talking from his own opinions, apparently. Texting it out to the world on his phone. "I saw a video, do a search and u will find,", etc. He's just saying "I saw some stuff on the internet and here's what my opinion is". It's just bench-racing. Interesting reading but at the end you have to wonder, "why should I believe this guy?". This part might be my favorite - "and if u are a tuner u would know ECT/IAT move around alot in normal driving". ECT/IAT move around alot (sic) when driving...WTF? This is tuner-knowledge? Just having fun, nothing personal.

I don't have anything to add, just have to point out really weird it is for a person to take the time and effort to write all of his complicated thoughts down. But still cut the corners on the word "you". Makes me think of a high school kid on his phone trolling a bunch of engineers. It is on a Honda forum, but sill...just weird. Just type in the y and the o. The whole word is contained in four keys across the top of the keyboard. Just one of those WTF things.

There are a few things that you can check and do to reduce risk (edit - for the bar not the daughters). You'll want to do a test-fit to see where you're starting. It might even be possible to mount it "floating" so it's tension-free, with the right bolts and the right gasket.

The back of the Owners Manual has the best wiring diagram. I'd follow that power circuit for the brake light switch. Stop switch. There should be power there at all times. Key on or off. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/17-owner-manuals/

Did you check the fusible links? Year of car will help. They all have brake lights and hazard switches.

Is this a new problem in a car that you've had for years? Or a problem with a car you just bought? Or somewhere in between?

Piston speed should be considered. Not crankshaft rotational speed. Unless it's a Wankel. Throw in the angle of the rod also. At higher degrees advanced the leverage on the crankshaft increases dramatically. Small pressure can overcome the inertia of the crankshaft and associated parts. Just tossing wrenches...

That's the clue that Terrapin left in his thread, I assume, with the first title about a **73**. The badges and the vents are in the pictures.

Did you get the pedestal that the distributor sits on? Two screws hold it to the timing chain cover. Your 280Z pedestal won't work right with a ZX distributor, you'll run out of adjustment range. Disassembly introduces more risk. If the parts aren't rusty you could probably just purge the old oil and grease with some brake or carb cleaner then relube it. If everything moves smoothly and correctly, why take a chance. I think that your others might just have a cap over that screw. That looks like a reman but that doesn't mean it's bad.

Metal fatigue and bolt loosening would be the concern. On the cam towers, not the head itself, or the bar. @Clay C are you the buyer?

Weird that so many died there. Like an elephant graveyard. Or is the owner just an old car collector, and he went out and got them? Or hurricane. Did you get a ZX or 280Z distributor?

Put it on BAT as-is and see what happens. Somebody might pay more for the complete package. Those low numbers...people love 'em. You should retitle your thread to "I found 903".

It might flex it like the steel exhaust manifold does to manifold bolts.

Might want to move that up. The guy in the white house is implementing travel bans. He just did all of Europe.

So the "real" question is why do they let the curve go flat...? Not the actual numbers. Here's a 72 curve that goes flat at 2000 RPM, 10 degrees advance. On top of initial, 17 degrees, it might be only 27 degrees total. All in 27 degrees at 2000 RPM. Not sure really which advance goes with which initial. They give distributor numbers in one chapter and car options in the Tuneup chapter. I assume that high initial would go with low centrifugal advance.

AC Delco would be good. Watch out for counterfeits though. I'd buy from Rockauto, I think. If you rebuild your ZX distributor you could use a GM module but the ZX module has the same features. Current-limiting and high energy. I don't know about the brands available though for the ZX modules.

The seller is not a parts maker. He's just selling Z stuff. That bar is probably a one-off. https://www.ebay.com/usr/metalmilitia767?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

Looks like the guy only had one? Maybe it blew up his engine and he wanted to make a few dollars.

Piston speed, and combustion chamber volume, varies dramatically with crankshaft position. If you created a plot of chamber volume with time, there would be a long stretch where it was close to its minimum, almost unchanging.

Is that Highway 99?

Did you get the gland nut off? Not clear what's stuck.

So, VIN fraud? Should be interesting getting title and tags. I see the funky choke knob on the console. Did they have that in 73?

The back glass survived whatever crushed the hatch? Or the intact headlight. Wheels?

I think it's just colliding asymptotes. You're asking why did "they" stop, or why is the effect there? I wonder if it changes with a turbocharger. Get away from the 14.7 psi limit.

The size of the outlet holes would determine pressure. Can't tell if they're too big or not. Not really much data to tell if it will work correctly. The cork gasket seems too thick and not right for the application. Good concept, functionality unknown. Send the guy a message and see if he has some more info. Even a video or picture of the bar squirting oil.