Zed Head

Didn't mean to blow past your earlier comment CO. You said keyway, I thought you were talking generally about being careful with the damper installation. Once AV8 put his picture up it was easy to show that they key itself was about to get pushed out of its slot. Good versus bad. I was thinking the same thing about the bright light and the groove except I was going to add reading gasses or magnifying glass. Should be able to see if the key is getting pushed out of its groove. That whole damper/crank snout area needs much more finesse than it seems. The parts all look stout but they need special attention.

This is a little metal rectangle (actually more of a slice of a circle, rectangular in one direction ) that fits in to a slot in the crankshaft nose. Proper name is woodruff key, I think. Don't lose it, it would be easy to push it in to the cavity. Looks like you almost did. Use a magnet and/or pliers and pull it out. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_(engineering)

Notice the key in the keyway also. Good Very bad. You were probably going to fix it but just in case. Might as well take it out and put it in a safe spot while you work on the seal.

$67,000. A few thousand dollars for a fresh clear coat seems like a good investment if you're planning to sell. The seller showed all of the matching numbers stuff but there was a lot that was not original. Kind of blows up my "originality pays off" theory.

Good luck NZ. Modern medicine is pretty amazing. Any thoughts on how you got it? Asbestos? Family disposition? My mother did everything right, as she said, and still got it. Lots of chance involved, no guarantees. All you can do is improve yours odds.

One of the silver ones, a 73, is up today. Already at a huge number, $48,250. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-152/

Found an old thread about it. Wonder where it ended up. Still in Chicago maybe? Jason? Are you out there? https://www.zcar.com/threads/how-much-is-my-240z-worth.99911/ https://zhome.com/History/69ZArticle.html

Says Safari but looks Mad Max to me. 1976 280Z, slightly modified. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-44/

I'd put it on BAT, it's the hot scene these days. You'll have a set of good pictures stored for the world to see, and it will go to someone that values it. Just because you sell your Z doesn't mean you can't still be part of the Z world.

I think this yellow one is still out there Mark. It's more visible now, the shed has fallen down around it, but I don't think it's moved at all. It has to be full of mice, just has to. 45.60803579621207, -122.86242506500992

This is an old episode apparently, but it's the first time I 've seen the show. It will hurt to watch if you're a fan of early and original. Sorry if you can't get it, I have youtubeTV and it's an option. Short story - somebody turned #89 in to a 432R tribute replica. It looks neat. But. Might have been posted already . https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4326864/ https://www.yidio.com/show/garage-squad/season-1/episode-3/links.html https://simkl.com/tv/52964/garage-squad/season-1/episode-3/

You probably want - 2122 here. I think that it's the tallest. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2122 Put "collar" in the search box to see more. https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? @Terrapin Z might have one and could measure it for you too, probably. You should get more measurements though. Distance from the bottom of the pressure plate/clutch cover to the surface that the throwout bearing sits on. Then you can do the math to see which collar/sleeve you need.

I think that the current-limiting Pertronix could probably fire a big gap with the right "stock coil". The 280ZX L28E coil is different than the 1975 280Z L28E coil.

Your post doesn't seem related to anything. Not sure what you mean.

Just to be sure, you showed the picture of the clutch fork hitting the back of the hole in the bellhousing. Is that the problem? The 5 pages is about how the problem couldn't be solved by the normal methods, and it could only be solved by lengthening the pivot stud. But that is very unusual. You might just need the tall throwout bearing sleeve. That is the most common solution. Normal.

Which Pertronx? There are two models. One can use a high energy coil, one can't. https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-91761-ignitor-ii-adaptive-dwell-control-hitachi-6-cyl-datsun https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/91761.pdf

FPR's tend to leak down also. It will cause the same extended cranking problem. And non-functioning cold start valves will add some cranks.

19 minutes of bidding and it got to $16,500.

More stuff is coming out of my brain on this topic. It's not uncommon, I remember past discussions. I think that in the past I suggested that a person actually divide the voltage, like you implied, purposely. Run an extra wire around the tach circuit, parallel circuit. Use a potentiometer to tune the current flow. I don't know if it would work but I think that it should. The whole point of using a current limiting ignition module is to get a stronger spark. Using an old high resistance coil to get the tach to work defeats the purpose. p.s. this might be why Nissan went to a voltage spike/kickback (probably the wrong words but figurable) sensing tach for the 280Z electronic ignition instead of current sensing.

I used to just push the front edge of the hood down after closing it. There was play/wear/something going on there.

Clean original 1975 2+2 automatic that I had overlooked is up today. Already doing well. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-datsun-280z-22-7/

Thanks for the reminder, I had forgotten how you solved the problem (state-dependent memory maybe). The proper measurement is already here in this thread.

Hey, you got quite a bit of help here. I think we deserve at least a simple word or two about what the problem was. It's how the good forums work. Don't be embarrassed if it was something simple. We've all had those.

Part #7 shows two numbers, but the first is probably the monkey-motion transmission. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/clutch And the lock washer, #8. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/clutch/8

One thing that I had forgotten about that I've seen on other cars, is the height of the pivot ball. We really should have that pivot ball height as a variable in the whole "92 mm" solution. If the pivot ball is short that screws up the whole equation. The washer under the pivot would be a factor too. I seem to recall a lock washer. Here are are some examples. I wonder if there are variations in the Nissan transmissions. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-GM-Bellhousing-Clutch-Fork-Pivot,712.html?sku=5503855&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAiAm-2BBhANEiwAe7eyFG8N4a_JIC8cKxYJpinHOb48MAHr5-x6wb0xJJmKFLVknBKHIUyi_hoCgNgQAvD_BwE https://www.jegs.com/i/Hays/490/84-116/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAiAm-2BBhANEiwAe7eyFNypj6L5trSXEoFY_4KFgt8v37pZIJ7MPtWAlID2eYNIsuk80E8oExoCaGMQAvD_BwE