Zed Head

That answers the Summit question. But it looks like you know that the parts are bad but are trying to hold on to the money that you received for the first set of bad parts. It's like the old ads for lifetime replacements. Replace bad with bad. Long-term the remaining question is "are you addressing the poor part quality?" Will anybody buying parts in the future get the same bad parts or will they get new "fixed" parts? You haven't said that the parts are actually good, you've only said that the individuals paid for them and that you'll replace bad with more bad.

Outsider view - it looks like Resurrected Classics got screwed over by thier supplier and has decided to pass the damage on to their customers instead of eating it as the cost of doing business. But, there is a question about Summit. If the parts were purchased through Summit why not return them through Summit? Summit has more leverage than an individual customer. Give Resurrected Classics the details, but return through Summit. If Summit stops selling the parts, then the responsibility goes back to where it belongs. Companies that get their products from off-shore suppliers really hate to get returns. Probably because they have to eat the cost. Communicating with companies in Asia is very difficult. I got a bad mirror from MSA many years ago, obviously bad, the image looked like a funhouse mirror, and it took some serious persuading to get them to send me a good one. Probably because the bad one could not be fixed, it was garbage. MSA had to but two mirrors to get paid for one. Commenting more from the perspective of how global business works. Many ways to get screwed. I wonder if Alibaba is involved. https://www.alibaba.com/

1970. Bring a TrailerL28-Powered, 24-Years-Owned 1970 Datsun 240Z Series I 5-S...Bid for the chance to own a L28-Powered, 24-Years-Owned 1970 Datsun 240Z Series I 5-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #193,538.

Pretty sure I remember reading about people using the oil pressure sending hole as a source to prime the whole block with oil (might have been @Captain Obvious , although not obvious). So, if you can rig up a way to push oil in that way it should fill the system. I am not personally familar with that plug, it should be described on the Monroe Rebuild book, but it does look like it matters if it's the one end at the end of the main passage/gallery/galley. If it was left out, the oil would not get very far after it left the pump. There would be no pressure build either. One of those borescopes would be handy.

When you write "won't prime" do you really mean won't pump? Filling it with oil is actually the priming. How do you know it's not pumping? Oil flow to the cam shaft, reading on the gauge, or what? You might remove the oil pressure sending unit and see if oil flows from the hole when you spin the pump. Also, if you packed vaseline on the inlet side of the pump it might have trouble pulling the oil in to pump it. You can only generate atmospheric pressure on the inlet side.

Rockauto has a good reputation and their price is better. Shipping to Spain might be the decider for you. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,suspension,shock+/+strut,7556 Seems like you should be able to find a supplier over there. KYB EuropeKYB Shock Absorbers - KYB EuropeKYB shock absorbers - world class quality suspension from one of the worlds largest manufacturers of shock absorbers

KYB makes good shocks. I have used them on other vehicles and not been disappointed.

Project potential. Maybe restoration. Bring a TrailerNo Reserve: 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed ProjectBid for the chance to own a No Reserve: 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed Project at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #193,030.

There's a couple on eBay that might work. Probably all the same. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=datsun+eccentric&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313

Soccer's a gamble. I felt lucky to have made it through the years with none of the major long-term injuries. I did have to do some PT on a knee. My doctor had been a college athlete and had the "suck it up and take some Advil" attitude. So I went in to weekend warrior mode and tried to tough it out. He sent me to PT when I went back a month later and showed him that the thigh on the injured leg was about 2/3 the size of the good one. The PT shop owner used to do the Cleveland Browns football team. Got me straightend up pretty quick but it still wouldn't bend as far as the other one for about three years. And the tough-it-out doctor was afraid of blood. Later, after the knee, he refused to remove the stitches in my chin because the tails were cut too short (forgot to mention the chin. And the broken collar bone.) and there would be blood if he had to dig them out. I had to go to the drug store and buy some tweezers and pointy scissors to dig them out myself. There was blood. Good times.

Are you a keeper? All of my injuries were ankle, knee, nose, eyebrow, or jaw. And one AC joint. And a groin.

How did things get so bad, since this last thread? https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68334-resurrected-classics-continues-to-impress-with-new-fenders-hatches-and-bumpers/

I thought that "AI" would do that for us. Apparently not -

Here's the link - https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/

This normal. It also shows (edit) pretty good intake system vacuum. 30 psi or below at idle is normal. Have you adjusted the valves recently? If I had this problem I would check the TVS (aka TPS). Make sure it's working right at open throttle. It's what adds the extra fuel. Your fuel pressure looks good.

Try snapping the throttle open and see what pressure does. It's not RPM that causes change it's manifold pressure. If you just ease the throttle open intake vacuum/pressure won't change much. The numbers look good, actually very good, 26 psi indicates very good intake system vacuum.

How bad was the old one?

Here's a Z for somebody looking to get in to the game. Down in Texas, but titled up here. RV camshaft. Whatever that means. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-176/

What you're saying sounds correct. I've read about the rear hub race surface wearing/wallowing. The guys that race see it more often. Hybridz has some stories. I wonder if there is enough material there to be machined and sleeved. A good machinist might have better ideas. Metal spray or welding, for example.

Finally figured out who played this song I've been hearing. Need to share. For our Canadian friends...

Seems unlikely that the engine would use so much fuel when accelerating that fuel pressure would drop. Probably learn what you need to know just blipping the throttle by hand with the hood open. You could connect to the cold start valve hose. It's basically "on the rail" and sees what the injectors see. Don't forget to block the hole in the manifold. Never mind, no need to remove the valve. Just the hose. Good luck.

Can't tell where the seal is riding in your picture but here is a picture of an old early 240Z shaft I picked up that had a groove from a worn seal, for reference. Gives an indication of factory engagement. The wear pattern in your picture is very weird.

I'd fix this first. Besides the bushing, the fit of the splines should control play also. Are you sure that you have enough engagement?

I had thought about making some slotted rubber pucks for the rocker panel seams but at home I just used the diff or the front cross member and the sub frames were dented anyway. I wonder how well a Z would lift using the four points shown in the Owners Manual. Is that not the ugliest drawing of a Z ever? 1973 Owner Manual. Looks like the summer intern did it.

Glad it was nine years ago instead of nine months. My memory shelf life is not terrible but not fantastic either.