Zed Head

R180 and R200 have the same bolt pattern except 1975 and 300ZX.

Definitely looks smaller than my L28 plug, in the same position, so the head elbow's not going to fit. I just went out and looked at mine and it takes up much more of the boss than yours. Interesting. I'd bet good money that it's the same size as one of the coolant passage fittings in the thermostat housing. Or maybe a carburetor/manifold fitting. Were it mine, I'd remove a few coolant fittings and/or senders or sensors, and try them.

Fusible links are like "slow blow" fuses. Fuses are specified mainly to the gauge of the wire that they're protecting. In the development world there's probably lots of testing to failure before the final specification. It's an interesting topic. You can go with a lower fuse rating if you add heat removal. It's really all about the heat. I've solved fuse blowing problems in the old house I live in by opening the fuse panel door in the summertime. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html http://aemcomponents.com/applications/faq/

I meant the direction the blades spin didn't matter as long as the air was moving in the correct direction. That's why you reverse the power and ground wires, to reverse the rotation direction of the fan. Making it spin the right direction instead of wrong. Man, this site is slow....

You can isolate corners by sticking a piece of rubber under the fitting at the end of a line, as a plug. Something like a BB might work also. You can also isolate at the MC to see if the problem is in the front or back. The material inside the lines might not be as flexible as the exterior. Clamping the lines will damage a thermoplastic, like Teflon. You definitely don't want to clamp a stainless steel line.

I've had a few Yuenglings n Pottstown. The fish in the river are these weird orange and gray hybrid Koi-Carp. My Irish buddy though they were fantastic trophy sport fish.

Any "old engine" shop that saw those numbers would think bent or stuck valve first. Not engine rebuild. The shop didn't try to sell him anything though. They didn't want to work on it. Overall, you have to wonder if they really put much effort in to the pressure checks. A simple inspection, and a couple of measurements of your own and you'll be way better off, knowledge-wise, than you are now. You might be able to borrow a pressure tester at a parts store. Get the screw-in type.

Who measured the cylinder pressures that you referred to in Post #1?

So you're saying that somebody had the L and the S wires crossed? You didn't really ask a question at the end. The Charge and Brake dash lights should both be on when the key is at Run, but not Acc. Then go off when the engine starts,

You could reverse the power and ground wires. It's a DC motor and will run fine backward, I'd assume (might even get more life from the brushes). The blades are designed to create a pressure differential from the inside to the outside, I don't think direction matters as to how it happens..

On my L28 that hole is the same size as the one that supplies the heater core, in the back, passenger-side, of the head. They can be swapped. Might help if somebody has a measurement for that part, the elbow. It looks smaller on your L24 though, but if you have the time you could remove the elbow and try it in the hole. Then you'd have a male part that you could more easily measure. I have an L28 plug that I could remove but I don't have a thread gauge so would have to guesstimate.

The bottom ends on these cars are super durable. Worst case, it might need to have the head worked on, which can be done with the engine in the car. Moisture from the exhaust is normal. It's a byproduct of combustion. You'll need a Philips head screwdriver for the hose clamps, and a 10mm socket with an extension for the valve cover bolts. If you've rebuilt a mower engine, you can easily get the cover off and determine the source of the problem. Remove the hose, loosen the screws (leave them in the holes), and lift the cover straight up. It's designed for easy, often, removal. The gasket will probably tear when you remove the cover, so try to find a new one before you start.

Start the engine using starting fluid when the pump is connected to 12 volts. See if it keeps running. The pump only has power when the key is Start or the engine is running. So, unless you have excellent hearing, you don't know that the pump was running when you tried to start it. Some 280ZX's have a 5 second prime when the key is turned On, but it often doesn't work.

Your first post is out there. Probably didn't get a response because you're already in the right place - the manual. The wring diagram shows the circuit, with any fusible links or fuses, and the EFEC chapter shows a test procedure. Plus you had the pump connected to power and running. Did the engine start correctly and stay running then? If it didn't then the problem might not be the fuel pump power. How far do you drive it every 3-4 months and how long have you been doing that? Enough to refill the fuel tank within a year? Maybe the fuel has just gone bad or collected condensation in the tank.

Other areas where you can get play are the shims behind the pads. If they're bent they'll need to be compressed before you get solid braking action. The bends will push the pistons back in to the calipers when pressure's off the problem won't fix itself. If you get new shoes beware that some shoes seem to be designed for oversize drums. Mine only contacted on the edges until they wore in because the diameter was too large for the drums. Have fun, good luck.

Mark's suggestion of using vise-grips to clamp the flange was a good one. Just for a short test. See if the popping goes away.

How about the reaction disc? It's purpose is to allow a gradual application of force. Maybe the sharp contrast is what really bothers you, not the one inch. You could go to the other end of the adjustment problem and run the booster rod out so far that the brakes build pressure from heat and fluid expansion and lock up because the return hole is closed. Then back it off from that point.

You need to tell us where you're located.

Could be that the rod from the booster just needs to be extended. Too much play between the booster rod and the MC seat. Not sure why it would change but you never know with aftermarket parts. If it was good before and all you changed was the MC that would be where "new" play could be introduced. If the car is new to you it might be that there's extra play between the pedal and the booster. If the air is out and the parking brake is tight then mechanical play is the place to focus. Get rid of the play. You might even gain some benefit just by adjusting the pedal stop, but there are several adjustment points in the train. Use the 72 FSM, it's easier than 71. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

Rockauto is a good place to look. And the 1984 300ZX used the FS5R90A. That car's switch should work. I looked in Electrical Switches and Relays for a 1984 300ZX. It's there. They call it the "back-up lamp switch". Might explain the difficulty in finding. But it looks like the one you show that is too short. Who knows. Are you sure that you pulled the correct switch? There are several. Maybe the one you have isn't for the back-up lamp.

You should differentiate between air in the system or system needing adjustment. Pump the pedal. If it gets higher and harder, there's still air in the system. The rear cylinders are so small that it's more likely that there's air in the front calipers, if you're getting 1/3 to 1/2 travel before contact. Calipers installed on the wrong sides is the common source of the problem. The bleed screw ends up on the bottom. They're interchangeable, left and right. And your e-brake is a good indicator of where the brake shoes are. If they contact within about 6 clicks, they can't be adjust much tighter. If you're making contact at 1/2 way on the handle, odds are it's air. Volume doesn't get rid of air during bleeding, where the bubble sits is what does it.

You need a better quality mechanic. Edit - actually that might not be a broken bolt. It looks like a ratchet extension. Still, a good mechanic would have seen the broken exhaust flange stud and fixed it. Yes, you should get three new studs and nuts and a better mechanic.

The risk/reward and cost/benefit ratios don't really support it. More chance of misfires, shorter interval between plug replacements or re-gapping. For a gain that might not even actually exist. I just replaced my plugs and I had one of "Y" plugs with five of the standard electrode plugs. The Y plug was dirtier and more fouled. Just an odd aide... I went through the whole "push it to the limit" thing with plug gaps and timing advance and other stuff and finally realized that I couldn't tell the difference between the extra 5 degrees of advance or the extra .005" of gap, or whatever else I was messing with. Dialed it all back and it's a lot less worry and performance is just as good.

And the pulley V dimensions seem to be for the same belt anyway. Look at the water pump pulley part numbers. The crank pulley V dimensions are probably the same between L24 and L28. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/water-pump-fan http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/water-pump-fan

You could get a narrower belt. But if you don't have slippage and the belt stays on there's no real reason to worry. Looks like there's plenty of contact with the groove by the wear mark and the amount of wrap-around. It's the small pulleys that usually have problems because there's less surface area in contact. Is it squealing or slipping?