Zed Head

Looks like the small ones to me... Aspect ratio. Compare to your full kit picture. Don't know... The big ones almost never really need replacing. They're the part that the clamp presses on to seal the small ones. Edit - but it won't hurt to replace them. Unless you stab your finger with the pick you're using to try to peel them off of the injector body.

I've read that it's on the passenger side door lock cylinder. Only the passenger side for some reason. I did like site did and took the number from the glove box door to a local locksmith. They didn't think twice, just looked up the cut in their books and made me some spares. Just went and looked at mine and it's a letter and four numbers. Like A1234.

It's really only meant to get rid of mid-range hesitation or intake firing/popping. At open throttle, the ECU dumps a lot (27%) of extra fuel.

If the burnt plastic smells like burnt hair, it's probably a thermoplastic nylon.

Of course. Interesting that it's actually a "resto-mod". People ask often if they should restore or modify their Z's. Looks like people are paying for the modified cars now. Wheels, PCV system, interior...it's not a restoration.

Did you poke a wire in to the dimples? Blow some air in and see where it comes out. Is there a rattle inside now? Just asking the things that I'd be doing...

Sounds like really low fuel pressure or the AFM is not connected. Running on cold start valve fuel or dribbles from the injectors. When the throttle is touched it leans out and dies. Could be that the EFI system is not even powered. No injection from the injectors. The CSV has a somewhat separate power supply. Different pin from the EFI relay. hav to get of of the pone and find a compter

and a grease reservoir. Jealous.

This has probably been noticed before but the 240Z racks are different from 280Z. Y'all 240Z people have a filler plug

Weird that "restored" doesn't really mean restored. Maybe people think it's just a descriptive word like nice or clean. Nice car though.

Weak spark or module breakdown are possibilities. Usually the modules overheat and start acting weird until you let them cool down. But, maybe yours is on the edge. Module problems are hard to diagnose. One thing often overlooked on the the ignition system is the need for a really solid ground. The coil "charge" is totally dependent on current. High energy coils are really more high current coils. The ZX module grounds through the distributor body. Poor grounding could limit current and make for a weak spark at higher RPM. Maybe add a dedicated ground wire (another one actually, there's supposed to be one there already) to the distributor mount.

Then what happened? Are the holes through-holes or divots? Any parts get loose?

Did you measure resistance across the terminals? Should have been about zero at one end of the rotation. And did you solder two terminals together as one leg of the circuit? I don't think that you need to do that. Just measure resistance across two terminals that show zero and a higher number,with knob rotation, and use those two for the circuit. We're not really using it as a potentiometer, it's really a rheostat. http://www.resistorguide.com/rheostat/

The injectors are designed to work with no clamps. The barb locks the hose on. There's a full procedure shown near the end of the Engine Fuel chapter. They just press on, it's easy. 5/16" hose. Edit - they actually used too many clamps, marked in red. They are the bad kind though, so better clamps for the rail connection is a good idea. Before you install the injectors it might be worthwhile to flow test them. Connect the hoses and electrical and power the injectors. Compare the volume of fuel from each.

Don't assume that it's off by "180". There's nothing special about 180 degrees. The tang and slot are meant to fit only one way even though they look like they could go 180 off. You'd have to force worn parts together to do that though. If you removed the oil pump, it's more likely that you installed it a gear tooth or two off. It's super easy to check though. Set the timing mark on about 10 degrees on the compression stroke and see where the rotor is pointing.

My point, as it always has been, is that people like you are focusing on the wrong target. You're getting played for suckers by the manufacturers selling you cheap dangerous products. If you don't want Made in China, then don't buy the parts. When you're buying your new Nissan tell the salesperson that they're going to need to replace the jack before you buy the car. Send Nissan a letter describing how their jack fell apart and almost injured somebody. The law requiring country of manufacture to be clearly ID'ed on products was passed for people like you. But you're not using it. Where's the picture showing that the rusty rotor was made in China? You don't even know, you just use China as the foil for all of your frustrations with the world. Then try to bring others in to start a session. Post that picture or some evidence that the rotor was Made in China.

As site says it should start without any of those broken items. Except for the BCDD and the dash pot they are all to make cold starting and running easier but shouldn't stop it from starting. Maybe add some details about what it sounds like when it's turning over. You said that you have spark and fuel. Are you even getting a pop? Spark plus gasoline almost always gets at least a pop.

The manufacturers LOVE customers like this. They can do whatever they like, take your money, and put a little stamp on the product to divert your attention from the the people truly responsible for the poor product - themselves! Nissan spec'ed the product, sent the specs to a Chinese company so it could be made cheaply, then took your money, now you're blaming China! How much better can it get. I'll bet Takata blamed China also, for defective air bags. NASA probably blamed China for a defective O-ring. China meddled with our last election, not Russia. Russia used computers Made in China. It's Nissan! Nissan sold you the defective product. Nissan is responsible.

No codes, even in 1982. In the FSM troubleshooting charts the last item, if you can't find any other cause, is often "replace ECU". Hard to say. Somebody might have an inexpensive used ECU. Borini63 sells a lot of 280ZX parts. @borini63 Does you new distributor come with a module? You can wire up a GM HEI module if not, for about $25.

For the 280Z's the TVS is supposed to send the signal to the ECU to add an extra 27% of fuel over the base. Maybe it's not the TVS thats' the problem but the circuit in the ECU that uses it. Maybe you have a bad ECU. I can't find the percentage of fuel for 1982, so copied 1976 to show it. This is from 1982 - This is from 1976 -

I think that you'd have to make it super rich everywhere else to overcome a stuck vane. It's more of a dead end than a dead spot, I think. Air flow blockage might factor in also. And it was just a thought. Could be something else. Never seen a stuck vane on this forum though, so that would be a new one.

This is the most descriptive description so far. Stuff to ponder. Nothing comes to mind. An alternative ,or complementary (practicing my words), description might be that it "bogs" in 3rd gear at a certain RPM, if the gas pedal is held to the floor, but picks up again if the pedal is released a bit. It feels familiar, back from my carb'ed car days. When you release the pedal, you're throttling the air flow. Maybe making it match a stuck AFM vane. That just came to mind. The AFM vanes have been known to get stuck. They're delicate, meant to respond only to air. A stuck vane would cut air flow slightly, but reduce fuel enrichment, a lot. The air would slide by, but the ECU would only see vane position. You might check that.

What year is it? VIN? No offense to the late model 240Z owners, but as we've seen here, the early 240Z's have more inherent worth to certain potential buyers. Make sure that you see and get all of the interior parts. They're hard to find. If they're not there, use it as a haggling tool.

Might be chasing your tail 246... Edit - actually, these guys might make the rotors - http://www.advics-na.com/AdvicsPages/global network.aspx The globe is global now. These guys, the pads - http://akebonobrakes.com/OEM https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akebono_Brake_Industry

Trial and error is the way. With mine, I can kill the engine easily by adding too much fuel, by adding too much resistance. The way I've set mine is just by throttle response. At full throttle the ECU adds a lot of extra fuel via the signal from the TVS. It's mid-range RPM and throttle that the potentiometer will have an effect. The typical lean problem is mid-range, idle and full throttle will be fine, but mid-range will stumble and hesitate, maybe even pop back through the intake manifold. I'm not familiar with the zcardepot device. Do you know what the resistance range is? Is that the one you got?