Zed Head

Never mind. And you may find yourself in a beautiful house...

Actually, I was serious. There should be a separation between the hobbyists and modifiers like us, and the collectors, who appreciate the originality and provenance of the "marque". Those who want to enjoy a mellow conversation can do that, and those who want to do battle with words can do their thing. Each to his own.

I haven't had any of the R180's in front of me but I have noticed there appear to be two different kinds of half-shaft that they used with them. The typical flanged halfshaft and a half-shaft with u-joint yoke attached. It's odd but your later R180 has what I thought was the early style, and woodworker B's early 240Z has what I thought was the later style. But, it's clear from the FSM Rear Axle chapter that what you have is correct for your car. Here's a picture. Combine it in your head with one of the the Woodworker B pictures and you should figure out where the bolt head is.

I posted a clip from Mike's welcome in #36. I'm trying to follow Mike's guide. I do like the way the site is intended to be, so by definition trying to control it to Mike's liking is the same as controlling it to my liking. You're trying to hold everyone to the purists' values. You would be much freeer in the new sub-forum. You're welcome.

I've had a thought, which I think is reasonable. Mike could create a new sub-forum, maybe call it The Purist Zone, where the purists can have their discussions and share their knowledge. Then, instead of interjecting when somebody says something impure, the purist can simply provide a link to the new sub-forum. "We've clarified that situation here - link" or something similar. The sub-forum could even be "no holds (words) barred" for the members that really want to make their point, or just simply do word battles. @Mike Mike-san, what do you think? It would contain much of the vitriol and people could enter at their own risk. You might have to disable the feature that shows the first few lines of the posts though, just to keep it off of the front page. Most of these big arguments come from members trying to control the site to their liking. Maybe we just need more choices. Edit - forgot to say that I do enjoy learning about the histories of the cars and their features but just don't like to read all of the extra stuff that often goes along with it. Let's give it a special place.

And if you just must remove it, Nissan says you need a puller. They supplied a drawing in the PD chapter too, showing it in use.

Back on topic - Hagerty uses 1,2,3,4 with #1 being the best. What would a grade 4 or 5 be? https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1971-datsun-240z

It's Mike's site and he said "Datsun/Nissan" Z car. That takes the category all the way to 1978.

Pretty sure that you don't need to remove that. Might cause more problems than necessary, it's a shimmed, precision piece. I would stop, put the bolts back in, and follow the procedure in the PD chapter.

You might pick a single thing and make sure it's right. Lot's of jumping around without actually fixing anything. Fuel pressure that's too high, Don't know if the ECU is opening the injectors (or if it's even connected to the coil's negative terminal), Don't know if the injectors have power (apparently, since you're planning to replace the connectors), Don't know if valve timing is correct, (popping back through the intake is a sign), Don't know if spark timing is correct. Each one of these can be confirmed or fixed, independently of the others. We suggested running your return line in to a can so that you'd know if the rail or return line was plugged and your next few posts are about buying new electrical connectors. I've spent several minutes squirting blasts of starting fluid in to a wood chipper engine, keeping it running while I waited for good fuel to get pulled up to the carb from the cruddy tank. It didn't work but when I was done I knew the engine was fine and I had a dirty fuel tank. Focus!

Could be that the axle and/or bearing removal procedure caused a problem. Bent something maybe. Did you use a slide hammer or a lever it out with a pry bar.? Maybe everything is right but you just have a small bent area. A ding. When looking at Blue's pictures study the blue part and the black "distance" piece. The purpose of the distance piece is to hold the inner race at about the same distance as the outer race. The chart in the FSM shows that they calculated a 0.001 to 0.002" preload offset. That's small. But there's a "huge" overlap of tolerances, so it almost doesn't matter. It's weird, not even attributable to translation error, that the numbers don't just match, or they just say that one can't be more than xxx thousandths bigger/smaller than the other. Basically they just want the inner race and the outer race to be on the same plane, within a few thousandths. I also just noticed that they typo'ed a 6 for a 5.

Did you strip the heads or they just don't move? Is it one of the ZX starters? They have a whole maintenance thing in the Electrical chapter.

Forgot to say, this is some good new information. At least I've never heard it before. The Kenmeri story especially. Kenmeri sounds so exotic and racy, but it's just Ken and Mary. Funny.

I was thinking about the "wallowing out" issue when I just jumped on here and there it is. Pretty sure that John Coffey has described it and maybe J Mortensen. It's a race car problem. But, that dimension is in the FSM also. Hate to repeat it, but the early FSM's are excellent maintenance manuals. Much better than the later years.

Actually, you don't "have to". That seems to be where most of your problems start on this forum. Your definition of "right" is not quite right.

Might have mentioned this before too, but if you get some starting fluid, for a few dollars, and start the engine with the fuel pump off (to be sure you're not flooding it with the high pressure), then you'll at least know that you have spark and timing is close. Pull a plug, make sure they're not wet, leave the fuel pump unpowered, squirt some fluid in to the intake manifold, start it. If you want to enjoy it for a few more seconds just squirt more before the engine dies. You're starting to look at changing distributors but haven't confirmed that the one you have is bad.

Did you check the "weep" hole? That's where the shaft seal leakage comes out on the water pumps.

Disconnect the line by the filter that heads back to the tank. Run a line from it to a small tank. Power your pump and see what the pressure does. If pressure drops to ~37 psi then you have a blockage either at the tank or in the lines that return to the tank. It could be something as simple as a kinked line. It could also be a failed fuel hose. They can swell and come apart internally. Especially if somebody used a non fuel-rated hose. Your pictures don't show the bottom of the FPR. The fuel passes through the rail then the FPR before it heads back to the tank.

I'll sound like an arse here but if you can't figure out the factory rail an aftermarket rail won't be easier. They're the same basic thing, just a different shape. Follow the hose from the bottom of the FPR back toward the filter. It should not be connected to the filter, it should connect to a line that heads back toward the tank. Sounding like an arse again, but you'll have the same types of problems with carbs.

The front bearings and back bearings are completely different. Shape, "races", cages, principle of how they work, how to adjust them, everything. The main similarity is that they roll and need lubrication. If the wheel rolls with weight on it you could probably drive slowly to a shop that knows. Any auto shop should be fine. There's nothing special about the Z bearing assemblies. You could buy a new set of bearings and try again too.

Forgot to say, check your AFM numbers and post them up. There are differences between the years.

You might try a Wanted ad. Except that I exposed what new costs. I can delete all of mine if you want to reset your bargaining position. Somebody has to have some old steelies that they swapped for mags. Nobody loves the 280Z's either so they'll just look like scrap iron in the garage.

They're out there. Old stock, getting dusty. Maybe your local dealer has some on a back shelf. https://parts.bayridgenissan.com/p/Nissan__/ASSY-ROAD-WHEEL/53885515/40300N3100.html https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-assy-road-wheel~40300-n3100.html http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-axle

If "over pressure" means above 37 psi then you either have a blockage on the return line or your hoses are connected backward at the fuel filter. You're pumping in to the back end of the FPR. Added the second test on Pin 1, the signal to the ECU to open the injectors. About the AFM - The pin numbers are molded in to the connector on the AFM. Here's a picture of the test with resistance readings. EF-51 in the 76 manual, will be close in 77. Test your other two AFM's first and if one is good you'll know you have a suitable replacement. You can't piece-meal the EFI system testing. Make a list, sit down with your meter, get all of the numbers. The EFI guide is better for that than the FSM. It's more focused. I linked to the 1980 book, which covers all years up to 1980. Good luck.

Is the bearing still inserted in the casting on the inside? Check for a gap on the outer race, where it should be seated. There are so many different, conflicting, opinions about what the problem could be that you're probably just going to have to learn the basics and figure it out your self. That link I provided is pretty educational. If you focus on how the bearings work and what the purpose of the "distance piece" is, and think about how the balls ride in the races, it will probably click for you. This caliper is cheap but works well. I have one. Take some measurements. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/performance-tool-4601/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/measuring-tools-16659/measuring-calipers-19579/caliper/w80152/4614478