Zed Head

I'd put the bumpers and mag wheels back on and put it on BAT. Looks like a nice survivor, with serious resto potential. The first series of pictures look a lot better than where it ended up. Edit - also just noticed that it's not clear which set of wheels it comes with, mags or black steelies. You have both showing with it bumperless.

You should be able to measure bore and stroke from the bottom. Might take some ingenuity, but the pistons are right there and you can turn the crankshaft. Maybe that engine sticker is old and they didn't remove it. I don't think that you can get to 3.0 liters with just a 0.762 mm overbore. Which is what the sticker says, .030" = 0.762 mm. And I'm not sure that you can bore the L24 up to the 89 mm you need just to get to 2.9 liters.

I try to take a picture of the interesting ones. Sometimes they disappear fast.

Best be ready - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-605 And don't forget to check the ground circuit. Often overlooked. All of the coil's primary circuit current passes through the module, to ground. A dirty/loose connection can cause extra heat, in a part that already runs hot. Ignition modules hate heat. You might just take the module out, clean up all of the connections and reinstall it.

I get a distinct sense of rocker arms tapping on cam lobes... who knows. Here's a sound for comparison -

Could be the recording device. Might be your speakers. I have a Boston Acoustic system with tweeters and separate bass with its own amp. Circa 1995 Gateway. Very nice sound.

Sounded like normal valve lash noise on my computer. Wouldn't hurt to confirm valve lash since the head had been worked on. Maybe they're loose.

One more thing - make sure that somebody didn't install turbo injectors or some other high flow injector. You never know.

Apparently it's 1972, not 76. Snipped a picture. Here's my original Google search page. The links above didn't come in as links, apparently. Maybe this will. Forget it, just put this in Google - site:classiczcars.com escanlon windows

I think it's this one. The Resources page is all wacked out, I can't figure out what's what. I used Google to find the original page, with its own broken links. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41403-article-s30-door-window-problems-and-troubleshooting-procedures/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/57-enriques-s20-door-window-problems-troubleshooting/?do=download&csrfKey=ac8102f4e253cc3512ec9e84a85d68e9

Sounds great. Even if you find that the connections are right, measure resistance at the ECU connector to confirm proper function. Compare the values to the temperature chart in the FSM, or CO's chart which is on the site somewhere. And clean all of the connections in the harness. There are two bullet connectors along the fuel rail that could be corroded. Another fairly common, difficult to diagnose, problem is a hole in the FPR diaphragm. remove the vacuum line to the FPR and see if it has raw fuel in it. It should be dry.

I am pretty sure that there are pictures of 1976 windows in a Technical Article written by Escanlon. Not sure of spelling and didn't look for it, but I remember it from the past. It's in the Downloads area somewhere.

A tuneup can't hurt. Sometimes minor issues become more noticeable at steady engine speeds. Seems like a fuel issue would get worse after it started. I know that in the old days we would adjust our plug wires to avoid crossfire caused missing. Your distributor cap looks very clean on the inside, to Patcon's comment, but you can get shorts on the outside also, from dirt and grime. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor might do it. Good luck.

Some thoughts that popped in to my head while reading the thread. Before I went to bed. I'm glad your car's not red. What do you mean by "cruising"? And is the problem really gone now, after just pouring some stuff in the gas tank? Edit - more correctly - did the problem really disappear weeks ago, and it has come back?

76 is N42. What's your price range? What kind of quality are you looking for? I have an N42 I'd sell but I'm on the west coast. It's complete, just high miles and needs a skim.

That's a great point. I hadn't thought it out, just posed it as a difference to be considered. The tach should be fine. I'd forgotten that the current just passes by the tach, not through it. As far as the coil, it should be fine also. It's the XR700 that you need to worry about. Apparently, from the not so clear instructions, you should have 3 - 4 ohms total resistance on the primary circuit. And, it's probably best to get it via a low ohm coil and a ballast resistor. Ballast resistors are odd things that automatically change resistance based on current flow time, resistance rises as they get hot. So, they have higher resistance when dwell is long, time-wise, like at low RPM, then let more current flow at higher RPM, as dwell time decreases. Mechanical current limiting. The old pre-electronic age stuff is pretty fascinating once you figure out what they were doing. Just an observation. You could just use a 3 ohm coil and probably be fine. Make sure that the module doesn't get hot and drive it. I think that you meant PS20 coil, not 200. And it is supposed to come with a ballast resistor. The XR3000 is the one that doesn't need a ballast. http://www.cranecams.com/416.pdf

Missed it. But I did find this old boring standard Z car writeup. http://www.motorweek.org/features/auto_world/tire-tracks1970-datsun-240z

Don't know if it's been on yet. Might be soon. Show is on now. Only saw the preview, missed the first half.

Have you tried it? Yes, having the tach in series with the coil sounds right. The question might whether or not the tach can handle the higher current, since the current was limited by the ballast before. Call it a "6 volt" tachometer, using a 12 volt coil now. Crane's instructions are very poor and confusing. And kind of contradictory. But it looks like the 700 keeps the ballast. The 3000 doesn't. http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/9000-0700_.pdf

That's an interesting thread. It's weird how people always want to talk about things "in private" when in the open is best for everyone involved. Which is the purpose of these kinds of forums. The covering up alone is enough to make you want to avoid. Don't see the value in going private once the dirt is out there. I read the whole thread and it still doesn't look good for Pierre Z. Who knows what really happened? There was a guy on another thread who told me that he didn't post on the open forum, about somebody who seemed to be taking people's money but not producing the product he said he would, because he wanted to get his money back. The guy could pay him off to keep quiet. And it worked, he got his money refunded and/or parts returned and never told anyone. It was one of Senza Pari's customers. Not a fan of private communications about that sort of thing.

I took one of those apart from a 78 parts car. Can't remember the details exactly but a very thin pick might have been involved. I think that I circled the locking mechanism in this picture. It's not what you'd expect. You need four thin jamming devices for each operation, if I recall.

Anybody know Pierre Z? road and Track car. So Cal. https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/d/1971-datsun-240z/6589297803.html

Competition. https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/wan/d/hoarder-need-old-datsun/6585771290.html

Here's a local one for lots of parts. Don't know who "Ron" is. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/nissan-datsun-240z-huge/6573256685.html

Even a 260Z with a bad ad and terrible pictures is going for big money. Might have to put my rusty hoonermobile on the market and see what it might bring. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/z/6591990632.html