Zed Head

Thanks. I thought that you meant tail pipe but I see now that it's the headers. A common problem with all cars that have headers. Do you know the brand of the seats, or which car they came from? They look good in there. Does "fixed" mean non-adjustable? I did that in one of my way-back cars. Details on the crate motor might help you. There's a wide range out there.

That's oil. But they might be the same. One funky thread size. Decimal metric? 16,400 microns. 82/127ths of an inch.

A tap should cut some new threads pretty easily. Grease up the tap and you won't have to worry too much about shavings, plus gravity will help. Use a magnetic bolt, like for an oil pan, and you'll pick up any strays plus some rust.

Looks like it's barely been driven. The fuel hose is inches from the header. Did you use a kit or build your own mounts? Surprised that you fit the full HEI system in and still managed to keep the hood latch. Do you have a shot of the bottom of the car? Seems like the oil pan might be low. Good luck. p.s. You could at least change a few words. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129510-1973-240z-w350-swap/

Pretty pretty pretty sure that somebody out there knows the thread pitch and size but here's a link to the Nissan part numbers. They call it a plug and packing. Talk about translation problems. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-280Z/Fuel-Tank/From-Jul-76

For any late-arrivers. This is how the slide starts. Inability to be civil. Can't make an argument without calling names. Calling people stupid before trying to make the point is a sure sign that there's no substance to the words that follow. We're seeing a lot of it these days, by supposed leaders in both England and the US.

You can't make an argument without an insinuation of some sort of sexual fetish? More weakness. And apparently you missed the point of the analogy entirely. You should be making fun of my height or lack of leaping ability. Your large vocabulary is wasted. The last part is the correct part - these rebadged cars are fakes, in my opinion, and devalue the car that gets the fake badge. You can't talk about your car without revealing that it's a fake unless you want to continue the fraud. And I doubt that "everybody else" is in your camp. Why spend your time, if you're honest, constantly explaining that the car just has a badge from a different car, it didn't come that way. Maybe the key issue here is honesty. Just like it was in the VIN thread.

205/70- 14's rubbed on my 280Z, on the harder corners. Apparently the "205" is the width from sidewall to sidewall, not tread width, as I had thought before. Anyway, 215's might rub. You'll probably want to compare offsets also.

A badge is a label used to identify the object it's on. A VIN is a number used to identify the object it's on. What's the point of rebadging if not to suggest that the object it's on is what the badge says it is? I can understand enjoying the thought that you might have what the new label implies, living a mild fantasy, but when it comes down to the "nitty-gritty", if somebody asks "is that a real Fairlady Z?", the honest answer is no. It just has a Fairlady badge on it. So, in essence, it's a fraud. I wonder if HS30-H sold his counterfeit Fairlady Z as a real one. Anyway, the discussion ended up on-point until HS30-H's insecurities kicked in. If he had a Twitter account I assume that he'd be on a rant about peoples' "stupid witterings", whatever a wittering is. (Apparently "wittering" is a Scottish word. Rebadged as English, I assume). Protecting the badge is one thing, but then supporting moving the badge around willy-nilly is another. He's trying to play both sides, and has no leg to stand on.

Explain how DC871's car is special and you might have a case. It really looks like you made a fake in the past so it's okay for others to make fakes. Your moral compass seems to have yourself as North. Everything points inward. Rebadging is no different than re-VIN-ing, except it's legal.

This has to be the weakest effort I've seen from you. Playing both sides. As long as you produce your fake the correct way, it's okay. Desperate. I'm actually disappointed. Nitty-gritty. A vague word, used to imply hidden special knowledge. But there's not really anything there is there? Just go get a Fairlady firewall VIN scrap and patch it in. Voila, it's a Fairlady Z.

That's the other word. M'FairLady Z.

Homage is the word that was buried in my brain, couldn't find it. Homage is good. How about replicant? Replicant fits today better than clone. It's not even in spell-check yet. Fairlady Z replicant.

I'm not trying to pick on your project. Any project is a good project. But I just realized the major error of your title. "into a Fairlady Z". No matter what you do, it won't be transformed into a Fairlady Z, as I understand the definition. It might be a clone, or a replica, or a pseudo-, but it won't actually be a Fairlady Z. I think that a purist might even be more offended that someone thinks the "badge" makes the car. This is more of a grammatical thing than a car thing. For whatever it's worth. We tend to like a good label or category, and I'm not sure where what you're doing fits, or what it would be called. What would it be? Maybe we should make a up a new name. Clone is so played...

I think that it would be neater if you found a real Fairlady Z and restored it using all of your parts. Converting "right"-side drive to the wrong side just seems not-right.

I can dunk a basketball on an 8 foot rim. But that doesn't mean I can dunk. Go for it. I'm not really in to collecting old stuff anyway, so my opinion means little. If I saw a real Fairlady Z my first thought would be "that thing must be hard to drive with the wheel on the wrong side".

It won't be a restoration. More of a replication.

Nobody is doubting the veracity of your ad. (Always wanted to use "veracity" in a sentence). But a person can probably find a complete, assembled, 1978 280Z of similar or better quality for a similar price. You're basically selling a jigsaw puzzle to people who want a finished painting, or one that only needs touching up. If I was in your shoes I'd assemble as much of it as possible. Get the engine and transmission back in, interior, body parts, etc. Make it look like a car. The new buyer would know that they need to recheck all of your assembly work but at least they'll see a finished car. Good luck.

Not bad at all. Has a trailer hitch and AC too. $7500. Is there really a Spanish fort there?

Has the engine had work done or is it just cleaned up? And you can't really "match numbers" on a 78. Nissan didn't put the engine serial number on the tag. How many miles on the body and the engine?

Whichever distributor you choose make sure to check the breaker plate bearings for rust and gunk. They're almost always stuck after sitting for years. If you try to use them they might break the bearing cage. The ZX distributors, the one in your left hand with the module on the side, tend to break the stator magnet also. And they have weak bushings. I've seen replacement bushings out there somewhere. You can run a separate ignition module, like an MSD, using the points distributor.

Too many variables and sample size too small to draw any conclusions, it seems. As I noted above my steering was very light and loose in my garage on a dry smooth cold level concrete slab. But my memory says that it's been much more difficult out on the rough driveway or the pavement of a road. Add the height of the car, lowered or stock, to the variable list. And rake, nose down is typically harder steering than nose up.

Seems like it should work. Look out for the injector notches though. Might be better off with a 280Z gasket.

They look like emissions-correct 240Z headers. Those ports with the bolts in them are for the air pump air. MSA looks like a probable source. Check their website. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6002

This might help your door hinge part search - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Body-240Z/Door-Panel-Glass-Hinge And it's pretty sure that you mean ammeter, not volt gauge, if it's the same car. You'll probably want to match fonts on that part. Nissan liked to change them. Good luck.