Zed Head

Here is a 1/76 build date 1976. I just left what was there when I got it. Cleaned them up and gave them a little extra crimp. Obviously a driver, not a show car. I think those are the original caps, they're in good shape too. With patina.

Didn't realize that it was that bad. Can you buy their products through Amazon? Amazon is bigger than any country so they can control their own shipping costs. Just asking, you might be surprised. Down here we are slowly, actually rapidly, turning in to one giant commercial entity. USA LLC. Everything is for sale, even people.

Just offering some clarity for MSA. They might, accidentally, be the cause of some of those smoke shows out there. Should be fixed.

Actually they started in Brown. Somehow red got in to the picture and sucked many people in, apparently. EuroDat had all of the info to the right path in his first post, I see after looking at the supercesion trail. So, what is MSA doing? They have the wrong diagram, putting weak links in to high current spots, plus, maybe, they are doubling the area of two to three of the links even if they end up in the right spots. Fat red, 0.69, for thin brown, 0.33. Go through Nissan for fusible links.

If it's already started and straight, you should be able to tap it on through, with a piece of pipe like grannyknot said. Put some lube on the axle below it. You can put quite a beating on the races, just try to avoid transferring that load to the balls. Take care of the balls. Don't Brinell.

Maybe. Probably. What bearings did you get? Can't see the part number from out here. Hope they didn't come in that Home Depot bag.

You guys should just call them directly and tell them that their new policy doesn't work for you. Often these decisions are made by people who don't understand the consequences. And, somehow, these days, we've all been (re)trained to do everything by computer. I actually just called the local post office by phone and talked to a real person, about my new delivery guy delivering the wrong mail to my address. It was weird. He said that he would talk to the new guy and get it straightened out. It was like a time warp, talking to a person and solving a problem. Just saying...the old ways still work sometimes. https://www.eastwood.com/paints.html

The module needs a good ground also. Power and ground. Plus the ZX distributors are known for breaking the magnetic ring under the stator. And they have bad bushings which let the sis pointed wheel contact the spikes on the outer ring. Lots of small things to check with a ZX distributor.

Could your research have been about steel braid, not cloth?

Probably has some good parts. Haven't seen a Z or a ZX in the wrecking yards for many months. They are getting really scarce compared to when I first got my car ten years ago. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/RNDZmWFpLhwXDRuD4JaOOt651

Here's another thing to worry about, and one I haven't found an easy solution for - are the red links that many of us have on our cars in the "Br" spot 0.33 mm^2 like they're supposed to be or are they 0.69 mm^2 like the atlanticz.ca link shows. I have a newer thicker red link and an older thinner red link on my car in the two Br spots. I haven't fixed it but might if I knew where to get bona fide 0.33 mm^2 links. That would be part 2 of the question.

You didn't show that you confirmed that you had power to the coil's + terminal. With your previous smoke show maybe you damaged the coil's power circuit. The ZX "match boxes" do go bad.

It's in the BE chapter of the FSM.

@James@TheZStore @Joseph@TheZStore Maybe one of the ZStore guys can fix it.

I couldn't post on your post about downloading the diagram. So I picked this one. I doubt that 7tooZ will be bothered. There's another diagram in the BE chapter that supports what TerrapinZ shows. Kind of weird that they don't just run all of the power through the horn button.

Wayne, Saridout produced a color 1976 diagram quite a while ago. Is it different than the black and white one you just uploaded? We seem to have some confusing redundancy in diagrams and FSM's. For example, some of the 77 FSM's appear to actually be 1976 FSM's. That's why there's a "take II".

Here's more confusion, from MSA. They have a "Brown" diagram, but only sell red links. And show 75 with 4 links. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4330

There are several questions interwoven through this thread. What should Eurodat's fusible links be? Is Red a thing? Are the 77 diagrams correct? Why are CO's Brown links pink?

I just saw that in his other thread, but it's not in any of the posts before I asked. And I don't think it's a sig I think that he types int in if he wants to. And it's not in any of his posts above this one except for the very last one before yours. Just arguing minutiae.

Have you been driving it or has the car been sitting? The FSM has specs. and procedure. The gauge can affect the numbers, but the range variation is what's important.

I probably over-wrote in my other post. But I think that the short answer is that "there is no Red link". No "original" red.

Who is Wayne? Don't know everyone's name. The red versus brown controversy has been around for years, at least ten. Even more confounding is the internet data out there that suggests that the smaller brown 0.3 mm^2 link is actually a thicker red link capable of more amps, 0.69 mm^2. The advice is often used for people switching to Maxi-fuses. Nissan stuck with brown through many years of FSM. Somebody decided it was a thicker red link years ago and that advice has been used and abused since then. Notice that there is no Brown in the web-link below, and Red appears from nowhere. There's no Red in any of the FSM's. Either Nissan chose the wrong color and the wrong cross section, and never fixed it for many years, or somebody made a mistake and never corrected it. I've been bringing this up ever since I joined the club. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Looks like you created a short circuit. Check your fusible links. Hopefully they did what they're supposed to do. The wire is still red instead of charred so the odds are good.

Looks like you pasted questions from another forum in to this one. Looks like you'd like to restore it to a Type A transmission. By "bend" I meant heat the lever using a torch and bend to a shape that doesn't require any metal cutting. Many possibilities. Here's a couple of old threads on it that are pretty good.

They have a pretty cool barn though. Snohomish is in the wet part of Washington. It was probably back in a corner...