Zed Head

This should work. A Sawzall with a metal blade should cut through the sleeves and bolt in a minute. If you set the bushing up in a vice with some preload the heating method works really well. It will move as soon as the bond breaks, so you get minimum smoky rubber vapors. My spindle in was seized to the inner sleeve in the back. Took a while to realize it. It happens.

Despite the variation it ended up with the ubiquitous pseudo-wool seat covering. Some company made a killing on that fake sheep skin.

I wonder if this wood-focused powder would work? Wuud. https://www.alphacoatingtech.com/mdf-powder/

What year is it? Could be the fuel pump switch in the AFM. Or you might be starting on the cold start valve but not getting injection from the injectors. Seems like you're looking at the right things. Are all of the hoses intact on the engine? PCV, valve cover, AFM, etc. Is the AFM plugged in? The plug has been known to fall off during assembly if you've removed it. Many possibilities. Give us some details on the car and engine.

That is actually a good analysis, I think. The valving should hold a vacuum, it's essentially a check valve, preventing the fuel from exiting the filter and lines because no air can get in to replace it. Like when you pull soda from a glass in a straw by holding your finger over the end of the straw. You might be able to cobble up a fix for the leaky valves with a real check valve between the filter and the pump. Ideally the pump would work correctly but that's life in aftermarket world.

Look at the wear patterns on his rocker arm pads. Most are way off the end. There was a guy a couple of years ago that had a similar pattern, and noise, and you could see wear on the rocker arms, completely off the end of the pads.

Just saw one of this guy's videos on tv. He's a sports commentator with too much time now. He has dogs. He has a few of them.

Sweet. Your mechanical pump should handle the load just fine, alone. The electric pumps were added for other reasons, associated with heat problems.

~2000 deaths per day is where things are leveling out. You can look at trends of individual states but the sum of all states is still high. These "free the people" protesters are just super-spreaders. It's a shame that they probably don't understand irony. https://www.mdmetrix.com/covid-19-projections

Unsprung weight would be affected. Not much, but still.

They don't look terrible. Get the right pads and you'll probably be fine. Looks like the valve stem heights are uneven too so you'll probably need to do each one individually. Tedious. The other guys know more, that's what I see though, and it fits your ticking noises. Several lobes are at then end of the wear pad. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2041A

How do the cam lobes look? Looks like the PO used the wrong lash pads. Maybe put a new cam in and used the old rocker arms and pads. Tthat's probably where the clicking came from, as the lobes slipped off the ends of the rocker arms. So, yes, bad news. Maybe not terrible though.

Very nice. Bosch might be even better quality than Nissan, if they're old stock. I don't have any evidence, it just seems that way. Hopefully they were stored well. Is your guy going to test them before installing? Motor Man gets some bonus points. https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/web_page.html

He seems to be learnable. The polls probably showed a drop.

I found a new comic. https://www.gocomics.com/nonsequitur/2020/04/29

That's what the last part was about. But, there's no guarantee that "new" is good. In short though, you're losing fuel pressure somewhere. You need to get it back to where it should be. The EFI system depends on proper fuel pressure to work correctly. It's critical. There's no pressure feedback signal to the EFI control unit. The FPR and fuel pump are what control fuel pressure, and the ECU"assumes" that it is controlled.

You're in the small vacuum leak zone now. If you have some they'll keep the idle speed up. Try to find some and block them.

Are they Nissan brand? I had a set of old rusty 1978 Nissan injectors that were perfectly balanced on my home-made tester and worked fine. I'd use old Nissan over new aftermarket. Who is SASSZ?

I don't think that there is any aftermarket brand that is outstanding these days. zcarsource seems overpriced. I'd add up the cost of clamps and seals, and think about getting seals at OReilly if you want to save a few bucks. This is more of a spreadsheet and convenience calculation, I think. Don't be surprised if they are out of stock and delayed by months. COVID19. Might make your choice for you.

There are different brands out there. Maybe try another brand. https://www.ebay.com/itm/323902906354

That picture is from the zcardepot site, to be clear. Had to click around to find it and was surprised that he didn't show the lowering springs. He has to know that that's what everyone wants to see. We've all seen the stock height.

Post the links to the injectors and people can tell you about them. Some of these companies just take common injectors, like available on Rockauto or from OReillyAuto and add a markup. The Standard brand injectors seem to get good reviews. I had BWD brand for a while and they were good but I think they might be discontinued now. Injectors don't typically foul up if they're used often. How do you know? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

Maybe he has a picture of the springs on a lowered car. I assume that they've been tested. He has the stock height on his page. 2" is quite a bit, that pretty much closes the gap over the tire. @zcardepot.com

Sounds like the fuel pump is dying. They've been known to die by overheating, the longer they run the worse it gets until they can't build pressure. You should never lose pressure under load, that's when pressure goes to its maximum. The cutting/stalling is typical of running lean, which is what will happen when you lose fuel pressure. All signs point to the pump, since you've cleared the path to the fuel rail. OR - there's junk in the tank clogging the pump inlet. 20 years is a lot of time for rust and old gas gunk to build up.

Might as well measure continuity to ground on the ground side of the points also. If the distributor has lost its ground then the points won't work. I'm just a big fan of measurements.