Zed Head

I don't think that there is such a thing. If the parts are Nissan new old stock, they might have added value. But "series 1 clutch assembly" doesn't really mean anything and doesn't say anything about the brand or what the parts are. How about more details?

A few good deals. 76 had an ignition module also. https://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209260&m=wc&l=en&html=true https://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209226&m=wc&l=en&html=true

I would let go of the assumption about the needles. Can you raise the needle to richen the mixture? It's obviously lean. There's a lot in the news these days about trusting the facts. Your facts say that you need to make things richer. No matter what you thought was supposed to happen.

No, I just meant the numbers. 80,000 people dead. More than WWI combat deaths. I've given up on the mask worries, people do what they do. Just like drinking and driving. And now kids are are dying from it also, through a different route. That might actually be what changes things. Parents. Not "old people" dying. Even if you assume a low percentage of the 80,000 old people, it's a lot of kids. And a lot of worry. 1% x 80,000 = 800 kids dead. https://discoveries.childrenshospital.org/covid-19-inflammatory-syndrome-children/

It's really incredible how things have changed since this whole thing began. So fast it's almost incomprehensible, what has happened and what could have happened. I just saw this comment from Senator Romney that puts things in perspective. It's from the The Guardian's coverage of today's health committee hearings. I think it's balanced. Romney is a Republican as is the W.H. at this time. Hard to believe that South Korea, a country of about 52 million people has only 256 deaths, and we have over 80,000 and growing every day. "As a reminder, Romney said a little earlier that the administration’s boasts “ignored the fact that they [South Korea] accomplished theirs at the beginning of the outbreak, while we treaded water during February and March.” Romney added: “And as a result, by March 6, the US had completed just 2,000 tests, whereas South Korea had conducted more than 140,000 tests, so partially as a result of that they have 256 deaths and we have 80,000. I find our testing record is nothing to celebrate whatsoever.” And he concluded: “The fact is their [South Korea’s] test numbers are going down, down, down, down now because they don’t have the kind of outbreak we have, ours are going up, up, up as they have to. That’s an important lesson for us as we think about the future."

Could be an exhaust leak, they get confused for a mechanical knock often. Could be low on oil, or a rod bearing. Rods have been known to blow a hole in the side of the block if they let go. Could also be something under the valve cover. I'd check the oil first.

The clutch pedal is two issues. There is a spring that pulls the pedal back. Sounds like someone removed yours or it broke. And the clutch master cylinder seals might be shot. Check the fluid first and try bleeding it. The pedal should always be up even if the master cylinder is bad. The open hose is the cooling fan system for the injectors. It won't affect engine operation. Most of them don't even work, unless it gets very very hot. Your title says engine knocking but you didn't say anything about knocking. Download the Service Manual and the 1980 EFI Book. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

$7,950 isn't terrible. I'll bet it has an R180 diff though. It's a 2+2. They show the Jags That Run book but don't confirm any of the swap details.

Do this coolant temperature sensor "tweak" and you'll probably get rid of the stumble. It might run okay, or it might be gassy in other areas. The low RPM, low throttle, stumble is a typical lean mixture problem, on many old Z's even with stock cams. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html p.s. and just for conversation, if I remember right, one reason big cams run poorly at low RPM is because the cylinders don't get cleared out well, and they tend to push air back through the intake valve before they start pulling. So you can get lean cylinders and rich cylinders and dirty mixture cylinders all at the same time. That's where the rumpity rump sound comes from. It's actually just the sound of an inefficient system. But, adding fuel can fix the lean cylinders so that at least they'll be firing. Anyway, the "tweaker" is the simplest way to get richer. No FPR adjusting or AFM fudging necessary. Too bad Radio Shack isn't still popular, those little potentiometers are hard to find now.

The TPS only has three positions. Idle, "full" throttle, and neither of those. Full throttle adds 27% more fuel than the base fuel enrichment. Idle adds a little bit of idle enrichment. Off idle the AFM is in control.

Never mind.

There are stupider things, for sure. They're happening right now. Just watch the news.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/may/11/mexico-us-sanitizing-tunnels-coronavirus-covid19 Don't worry, it's not what it looks like...

@AK260 is it really like this over there? https://twitter.com/RealMattLucas?ref_src=twsrc^tfw|twcamp^tweetembed|twterm^1259566662791106569&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.classiczcars.com%2Findex.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dsystem%26controller%3Dembed%26url%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Ftwitter.com%2FRealMattLucas%2Fstatus%2F1259566662791106569

Which shop manual and which chapter? Use AC in the FSM.

Odd that the front case has a different tone than the back one. It might have already been opened at least once. Who knows, it might have had a "dirty" rebuild. Check the bearings and synchros they might already be newish. It's pretty easy to split the cases and pull the gear cluster out without special tools.

Here's a popular one. I read about it for use with transmissions. You can disassemble easily if you make a mistake, so I got some. It ends up as a very thick goo after it dries. The solvent, or carrier fluid, smells like ethanol (in the Hylomar Blue). Says fuel resistant. http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/

I've seen marbles used. You could probably use gravel also. Crushed 1/2" minus might be about right. It will pack well in your driveway or sidewalk also, afterward.

Here's another "heat range" definition. The term "heat range" is inherently confusing I think. Not sure why they picked that term. I would have used something like "operating temperature". My first guess. Anyway, NGK gives simple description of "self-cleaning". Why is Denso talking about gas pocket capacity? What the heck does that even mean? The simple answer for Jalex's issue is the last sentence, I think. Of course, then you have to define "ultimately". https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/understanding-spark-plug-heat-range "UNDERSTANDING SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE One of the most misunderstood aspects of spark plugs is its heat range. It is believed by many that the heat range measures spark temperature or intensity. This is incorrect as the heat range is actually a measurement of the plug’s ability to transfer heat away from the tip of the spark plug. One cannot change the temperature of how hot a fuel burns. A hot spark plug has an insulator design that will be slower to draw heat away from the plug tip (thinner insulator mass), whereas a cold plug has an insulator design that will be faster to draw heat away from the plug tip (thicker insulator mass). For a spark plug to function properly it must have a tip temperature hot enough to invoke self-cleaning, while remaining cool enough to avoid pre-ignition. For most vehicles, the factory recommended heat range is sufficient; however, on some modified or special-use engines, alternative heat ranges may be necessary. Often hotter heat ranges have been used to attempt to correct an underlying fuel or oil consumption problem; this is merely a cover-up fix and the underlying issues will ultimately have to be addressed."

You could plumb one of these up in to the cabin. It's funny, but I had to do a similar starting routine on my EFI engine after I removed the cold start valve. Crank for a couple of seconds, wait for fuel to vaporize around the intake valves., then fire it up. That was only after it had sat for a couple of weeks. https://www.dhgate.com/product/fuel-pump-hand-primer-bulb-all-fuels-length/404919119.html#seo=WAP

Here's something interesting. Somehow, the part number for a spring and a distributor are the same in carpartsmanual. I found a complete distributor $96.80. That's what it says anyway. It's a "from Sept. 71" model. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/240z/for-manual/from-sep-71 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-distributor~22100-n3300.html

Here's an old conversation about springs and stuff. You might find a few interesting points to ponder in it.

He's only going to get about $50-100 from a wrecking yard. The engine trans and diff would probably be worth picking up as a set. It only takes one of them to be good and the buyer is probably paid back. Buy those and let him scrap the rest. Even a set of good injectors, a fuel rail, and an FPR might make it worthwhile. A garage full of spare parts gives comfort. @Terrapin Z is a collector and has been known to travel.

Might be some recommendations in here. Seems like wheel bearing grease would be fine.

How about a bad valve seal? And, the oil rings scrape oil, the compression rings create pressure. You can have a bad oil ring with good compression rings. A possibility. This is an old California Datsun engine, maybe Datsun Parts LLC. Quality was suspected from the start. I'd put that hotter plug in and just drive it.