tlorber

I've heard that the Chinese hand pumps at the massage parlors aren't bad;) No personal experience though.

The throwout bearing is located within the bell housing, so none of its remnants would end up on the drain plug. I hate to interject race into this, but those are probably shards of one (or more) of the bearing races. It would be wise to rebuild the tranny with new bearings, seals and baulk rings. Once pulled, you could do this yourself for around $140.00 if you have the tools, motivation and courage. Otherwise, shops charge around $600.00 for it. The slippage could be caused by the clutch, but there could also be so much play in the bearings that the gears slip out of alignment and do not allow power to transfer through. Kind of hard to know with only the description provided.

I saw a picture of the epitaph on a tombstone once. It read "I told you I was sick." I thought it was pretty funny.

You might want to put a link here. I don't go to the classifieds anymore and I know a lot of others here no longer visit it either.

I concur with the bad bulb theory if you think it is blinking too fast. The other thing you can do is to swap out the old thermal flasher with an electronic one. These cost around $8.00 instead of $2.50, but they draw much less current and are more consistent.

He might have meant a million yen. I will say though, that yesterday I went to a Ferrari Concours in Old Town Pasadena. Naturally there were some incredible cars. Apparently Sage Nissan was one of the sponsors, so there were a '71 Z and a low windshield roadster parked right there among the prancing horses. Talk about validation! I told my wife "See, you have 2 of the same cars that made it in the show, so back off about the Ferrari thing." She didn't quite get the humor.

Sorry to hear about your fire. It sounds like your attempt to go green went about the same as Obama's have. Hopefully you'll get everything back together in short order.

Changing your clutch should have nothing to do with oil loss (at least not from the motor). Do you hear any valve clacking when the pressure reads low?

So, do you think that the porting caused a lean condition by allowing the motor to flow more air?

Thank you for the responses. I will look into both.

Just to be clear, are you hearing the engine rev when the clutch is supposed to be engaged?

Do any of you guys know of a source to transport a 911 roller from what I believe is in West Texas to Los Angeles? I'm trying to help out a friend of mine. Thanks.

One thought is that after driving for a while, when things are locking up, you could try opening the bleeder at the MC for the front circuit (which is the rear reservoir on my '73) -make sure you put some protection down for the paint. If the fluid is under pressure and squirts out, you will know that at something around the master is not allowing the pressure to be released when the brake pedal is released.

This is what I did a couple months ago. Very simple. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/49080-wilwood-master-cylinder-install.html I think I paid $134 for the MC from Silvermine Motors.

I looked into having some manufactured a couple years back. The extrusion would be pretty cheap--I think the minimum order was around $600.00 and that would get you as many sets as you could ever sell. The problem is attaching them to the stainless steel. The OEM uses staples, which are difficult to reattach without the proper stapler. The site you referenced sells them with rivets-you need to make darn sure that the rivet heads do not touch the glass. I also heard that their rubber profile was not all that close to the OEM.

Stephen, I thought I remember you recently having a kid. Doesn't that have to factor in? Or is your wife scheming for the "oh honey, I can't possibly put the baby in the front seat so I'll have to go alone and leave the baby with you?" That scheme has served me well for years.

Just take a picture of them first, so you remember how they go back in.

Hey Blue-a bit off topic here but my HP computer monitor went out a few years ago. After finding a forum that described the blown capacitor problem, I cracked open the case and replaced 2 caps-grand total of $3.00. It has been working great ever since. The best part was that I was able to show my kid how to do the repair. Take THAT China.

I read that, as a patch (version 10.2) there is a surge supressor that protects the protector box that protects their crappy ignition module coming to a parts store near you

Assuming your car has tool boxes behind the seats, you might pull off one of the covers and look at the paint on the underside. They tend to be pretty pristine since they are not exposed to sunlight.

Hazards DO use a separate relay. I believe it is on the passenger's side, above the kick panel.

Those switches are very tempermental and sensitive. On my car it has to be in exactly the correct position or I get turn signal/brake light issues. Try pulling it out our pushing it in very slightly while the turn signal is on to see if it will kick in correctly.

Do yourself a favor and get an interally regulated alternator (out of an early 80's ZX) along with the required adaptor from Dave Irwin (Z'sondabrain on this site). I think I paid $60.00 for the alternator with a lifetime warranty and $15-$20 for the adaptor. It is all plug and play, and reversible. The solid state is much more stable and consistant that mechanical points constantly flicking on and off.

Hardway, on the 911s registry site there are pictures of one of the entrants starting his trip on the east coast, in snow, with the car on the trailer dripping icicles. He towed the car across the country to run the event. Others drove their cars in from out of state. The point is that you are not THAT far away. The next one will be around the same time next year. It would be great to see you there so don't be shy. The whole trip cost me around $750.00 with entrance fee, the few meals that were not included, fuel, and beers. That included a cool jacket, swag bag and a few other events. I spend more on that in a given year on parts for the car. It does NOT account for the rubber that I left on the roads.

The booster that was and is on my '73 (I just replaced it with a reman) is 8.5".