tlorber

It would depend upon your weather conditions and how warm your car will tend to run. If it is consistently hot and humid there it would probably be a good idea to have a shroud and/or a 4 row radiator.

Seems like if you had a strut tower bar that you could anchor the seat and a seat belt to you could create a relatively safe seat.

I don't think their purpose is truly to keep water out. There is no way they can really do that. I think they provide a flexible stop against the glass to keep it from moving around, and maybe to clean it a bit. If you look at the glass when the window is down, it is farther from the (non flexible, dried out, rigid like mine are) squeegee, creating a gap. When it goes up it rubs more tightly against the squeegee. I assume that with new rubber there is always contact against the glass-even when the window is almost fully open.

C'mon you guys. How many beat 260's do you see with a cb antenna strapped to the bumper anymore? I'm sorry I couldn't make the show-I had 2 communions and a birthday party (kind of like 2 turntables and a microphone, but not really) to attend. Unfortunately next year's will be coinciding with the Solvang roadster show, again, so I probably won't be making it then either. Thanks for posting the pics.

Andrew, you may be able to pick up a ratcheting box wrench. A good quality one will have very fine teeth, and will allow you to get into a tight area where clearance and range of motion are restricted, such as by the intake/exhaust manifolds. I don't use them often, but when I need them they are a godsend. As was stated above, if the two manifolds are of different thickness, the washers need to compensate for it. I ended up grinding down the thick washers to match Their respective contact points.

Was everything on the "new" car functioning before you attempted the swap? I've found that a bad hazard switch, or one that is not in the correct position can wreak havoc on the turn signal system.

http://www.datsunparts.com/Mirrors You might want to call him and see if he carries any parts for fender mirrors, and if so maybe you can get just the base. FYI he is also working on having a passenger's side mirror produced for the roadster, which is the same mirror as that for the stock 240's, except they never had a passenger side mirror. If you go this route it is much better to have a slightly convex mirror to improve the field of vision.

Wow, and you think these cars are flimsy now? Imagine that configuration.

I bought some diamond plate vinyl (I think it is normally used for flooring) cut it to size and shape, and screwed it on to the fender in the existing holes. The stuff is pretty stiff and doesn't deflect much but it is slightly flexible. I cut it slightly wider than the stock plastic pieces because my tires stick out a bit more than stock.

Bonzi, I must concur that you get the Cinderella award. That took some serious vision to bring that car back to respectability

Nice looking car. One comment- I have a spare motor on my shop floor that has the same air filters. They do not appear deep enough to permit air horns to fit. These are supposed to enhance air flow at higher rpm's. Do you know if they are in there?

You can look for Falken Azenis. I have them on my roadster in 14" 195x60. There are a fairly sticky tire and are reasonably priced.

I would pull apart all of the brakes and make sure they are in decent condition. Also, if you plan on putting in a manual, you might want to consider a 5 speed from a ZX. This will be better suited with a shorter differential (3.7 or 3.9) but if your car has an automatic it should be a 3.54 and that would work for a while. Personally I'm not a huge fan of louvres, but to each his own.

If you have the tranny open you should replace the baulk (synchro) rings AND bearings. With the labor involved, the parts cost in rather inconsequential.

Nice car, but somehow I don't think it sees the road very often.

I say keep it as well. I plan on welding up the holes and welding the bumper seams in order to clean it up. You might want to look into that in order to streamline the back end.

Scroll down to the Konig link and then keep looking down the page. http://nasaproracing.com/benefits

I'd say your options are either 1) drill holes through the floor pan and tap the rails out (using a rod inserted through the holes), then weld the holes back up or 2) get hold of a stud welder and weld the studs to the bottom of the rails, then pull them out with a slide hammer. Hopefully you can avoid having to replace them. http://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-98357.html I will say that this stud welder is not in stock at all stores, but perhaps you can buy or borrow one from somebody.

I may be able to get down there on Sunday.

I'd start tappin'. I think the fender is reusable, you'll need to straighten out the front mounting piece and possibly spot weld it in a few spots. The thing you will learn about these cars is that the metal is so thin that it's not that difficult to straighten it back as long as you can reach both the front and back sides. If you have some hammers and dollies and practice, you can probably get it into better shape than most of the used parts that you'll find due to rust. The headlight and hood are cooked, but you can find decent ones with some searching. Also, buy the book "The Key to Metal Bumping". It is a short book that you can read and then put into practice. Just make sure you start on one of pieces that you will not be reusing. Once you learn to read the damage you will know the order in which to press/tap the damage out so that you do not make more work for yourself.

One of the guys I met over the weekend told me that if you are a member of NASA ($50.00. membership) they have a special on the Rewinds for $260.00 for the set. Made me wish I needed wheels.

That is about the best way I can describe the scenery at this year's Targa California Rally. We did hit some rain, which made a bit more challenging drive but the roads and the views were spectacular. I believe there were 5 Z's overall out of 110 cars. This year I managed to avoid the mailboxes that plagued me last year. Still not sure why they needed to be placed on railroad ties. While 911's were clearly the predominant car, there was a good selection of nice older metal along the way. I realize that some of this scenery is probably routine for some of you, but for those of us that are stuck in the city, it sure was nice to get out and be in the rolling hills. Overall it was a lot of fun, the car ran great (only issue was a detached muffler hanger that tore off) and I'm looking forward to next year. Here is a video link that one of the 911 guys shot on a tight stretch that we ran. It does not quite show the topography, but if you blow it up to full screen, you'll get some sensation of the road.

I believe that the original name for GM's EV1 was the "Impact". Thought that was a horrible name for a car.

Thanks for posting the links. I actually watched them all. I guess those pre '76 cars will retain or perhaps increase their value.

Let me know if you are near the San Fernando Valley or if I can help with anything. I'll be in Paso Robles with 120 other pre '75 cars this coming Thursday through Saturday.