tlorber

Nice car. I'm guessing that one of those switches was to raise and lower the antenna. Any other guesses here before we find out for sure???

Did you try Banzai Motorworks?

I don't think you'll know until you get things in place. As long as you're aware of this issue you won't be surprised. It just means you will need to pull the header out one or two more times to make sure everything clears. I used my angle grinder and a file and did exactly as shown in the pics.

Isn't this what Z Therapy is for?

I agree that silver and red is a great combo. I went with partial red for my door panels and grey carpet, just for some contrast. I currently have Miata seats in the car, but I bought some 300 ZX seats, seen here in a test fit. My plan, if I can recapture my motivation, is to have the center panels dyed black, and the outer ones red to match the door panels. My main gripe with the interior of these cars (most of them) is that the black seats with the black doors and tunnel along with the black carpet provided no contrast to accentuate the cool lines that should be seen inside.

That one looks to have very low mileage. BTW, an article I read recently said that the value of old toys (fine, "collectables") is greatly enhanced if you have the original packaging-even if that packaging is not in great shape. I'm talking to the tune of double or triple the value just because you have the box. So you guys that still have the boxes may want to keep that in mind.

Yeah, by that description it sounds like a head gasket or block issue.

Regarding the tranny, it probably IS a bit stiff since it is new. First and reverse are non synchro gears, and you may need a bit more throw from your clutch to disengage power when going into or coming out of these gears. However, before adjusting I would get the tranny nice and warm. That means you'll need to put some miles on it so the fluid can heat up. It will normally take a tranny more time than a motor to get up to operating temp.

I'd condider this one, but being in California, I'd probably get my hood kicked in.

If you are doing this, you need to make sure that you use a heat stable adhesive. That 3m stuff is not great for the heat we have here in Los Angeles (98* today). I recently bought a gallon of some contact cement that is apparently not legal in California-but I can go down the street and buy all the pot I want. Anyway, I bought the cement for both my headliner, and to glue some foam panels to the interior of my warehouse roof for insulation. I haven't gotten to these projects, but everything else that I have used the adhesive on has held well, with no degredation or softening when hot.

Can you provide some pictures?

Those Lower Control Arms look pretty cool as well.

There is a type of mirror that rivets into the stainless steel trim piece AND the stainless door frame, (I don't recommend them and I took them off my car). Also, there are mirrors that screw directly into the door metal-once again, not recommended. Removing the door panels is not that bad as long as you are careful prying off the clips, so that you do not tear the board. Also, you might consider getting rid of the husband, if his demands do not become more reasonable. Just a thought.

Madkaw, we'll probably forget about this by the time you get to the dyno but please DO resurrect this thread and post your results. Thanks.

Are you sure that the front guide is in it's track? Also, you have the rollers INSIDE the door, but there should only be one roller at the top of the door, near the front. Your post implies that you have 2.

I'd say as long as you are mechanically inclined and have the interest and basic tools (including a torque wrench and ring compressor) you should go for it. With the motor clean, you can literally put the block in your living room and work on it as you have the time. That way this additional project will not add much time to the overall project. The L series are about as simple as motors get so once the block and head work are done it is just a 3D puzzle with 100 or so pieces (I'd be curious to know the exact number). By the way, last year I rebuilt my first transmission. I'd always been intimidated by the exploded diagrams but I figured at 46 years old it was time to "overcome my fear". The tranny has been working fine ever since.

Attached is a link to an event coming up in October. I was unable to go last year but hope to this year. The car I take will depend upon the weather since my roadster has no top. This is more of a road trip as opposed to technical driving. There are some very nice people attending and a good selection of Datsuns to caravan with. http://www.rockinrich.com/nostalgicdatsun/index.php/events

Do you know why the population of ________ never increases? Because every time a girl gets pregnant, her brother leaves town.

Um, I'll guess 22 lbs per side, depending upon where you end the cut.

Unless you are racing the car regularly, you are probably better of with round tops. There is no question that you will get more power from the triples (not just from air flow but from fuel delivery as well) but from what I have read there seems to be endless fiddling with jets and adjustments to get them set up. Also, that performance comes at a price- like going from 20 mpg to 13.

I had my interior guy make me the pieces using the old ones as patterns. He bought the color I wanted, bound the edges and even had enough to do the spaces under the seats. Cost was about $280 IIRC. I used carpet padding underneath for a little extra sound insulation.

I have an 82 ZX tranny in my '73. I had the exact same issue and I ground the tranny boss down so it would clear. That boss isn't used for anything anyway. Make sure you remove enough to allow for movement in the header.

Go Harper!

That seems like a pretty severe angle at which the chain hits the tensioner. Is that normal?

Those joints are called "heim joints" , in case you need to locate them. I just finished welding up the holes in my bumper, after removing the overriders and the rubber strips. Much cleaner look, but now it's off to the chrome plater.