jwtaylor

And could you really buy a 1977 Porsche 911 Carrera Turbo for $2697? That sounds to cheap. I should have bought one.

I'm watching this thread as I have a persistent leak at the firewall on the passengers side. The factory seam sealer in the seam where the bottom panel connects to the firewall is loose. I have dug it out and resealed the drivers side with good results. I can also see the big glob of black sealer by the fresh air intake and down that side. I need to remove that cover to see it better.

So it looks like it adapts an S14 - GTR brake booster? I'm just guessing from looking at the link and seeing S14 and GTR in the write up.

Did you notice the over spray on the end of the dash? While the car looks pretty nice, I would not pay that much for it. I think I might sell my series 1 for that much and even give the buyer 5000 back to do the body work and paint, and its only got about 165000 miles on it.

My 12/70 build 240 has the same cap. Always wondered if it was original or not, now I know.

My early , 12/70, 240 does not have screws holding the tabs. They are glued onto the console with a yellowish glue/resin, probably polyester resin. Maybe the consoles were built differently over the years?

A title search as suggested by "Blue" would be smart. You do not want to buy a stolen vehicle. I have heard of stolen cars being returned to their original owners after being restored.

Can the city get a title through the lien process? How did the city acquire it? You may need to check with your dmv as to the process in Ill.

I assume the tightening was done at the fitting that goes into the block, not the body of the sender. Screwing it in further should not have been a problem, unless the wire was twisted until it broke. Check the connection.

I had a steel vapor tank in my 12/70 series one 240 until just the last weekend. It was from a '73 I believe. You will find that you will need some spacer blocks to mount it. You will also need to slightly modify the plastic panel to clear the tank and mount properly. It may have been an issue with the year of the steel vapor tank I got. Do a search on eliminating the vapor tank to see some solutions.

I have a leak at the rear main seal. Been leaking for at least the last 14 years. Yes I have the parts to fix it, just to many other demands on my time.

California charged me the following: Registration fee = $69, License Fee = $1 and County/District Fees = $10 or a total of $80 for a 1970 240Z this year. Are we being ripped off or what. Every thing in California costs more for the privilege of living here. At least the cars do not rust out as quickly. John

A brake booster is a brake booster, doesn't matter what make. A hole in the diaphragm is a good guess. Do some searching on here on the vacuum booster and reaction disk, you will find the answer.

The colors do not match on my '70 240Z. I have no idea if someone has changed switches/wiring harnesses before I bought the car.

I would replace the oil pressure sender before replacing the pump. The senders have a history of giving bad readings.

The central shaft, the one the wiper arm mounts on, is supposed to rotate. If it does not you will need to remove it and clean and lube.

My last registration on the '71 was $68, including $11 in county (Contra Costa) fees. So even if dmv charges you 160% it should not be that bad. For those that don't know Martinez is also in Contra Costa county. Now if you did not keep the non op paid up the fines may be more serious.

Jack up the rear, one side at a time, and grab the wheel then pull/push - shake. Any slop or movement? Rear bearings may be shot in which case you will need new ones. You can also leave the trans in gear and try to spin the wheel to see is any thing moves to isolate the problem. I had a problem like you describe once that turned out to be loose differential mount bolts to the mustache bar.

Those front flares are nothing but ugly!

Isn't ml the abbreviation for milliliter?

My 240 has been missing the locator screws as log as I've owned it, 13 years. I can't say the there has been any problems with them missing. They were gone when I bought the car.

Dave is right about the case of the hazard switch. I had to glue mine back together as the tabs broke off. John

My bet is on the hazard switch as the problem. The turn signals and hazard both are ran through the hazard switch, at least on the early models. The switch can be rebuilt sometimes . Mine has a splint glued in it on the switch lever and has held for about 5 years so far.

Your damper may have spun also. If it has you will have a hard time timing it correctly. I would verify TDC and the timing marks as a first step. As to your wiring problems you are going to have to use the schematic to trace the wiring and fine out how the PO modified it.

Another possible option would be to shift the engine slightly to the right if you have the room. Better than cutting the footbox but still some work modifying the engine mounts, etc.