St.stephen

yeah I was wondering that as well. My immediate picture something relating to the morning after a long night of drinking cheap canned beer :tapemouth

www.victoriabritish.com They have complete seal kits with adhesive for sale for 189.95 (70-73) 239.95 (74-6/75), and 199.95 (7/75 - 78). I have heard mixed reviews about the door seals fit, however MSA in CA also offers seal kits. The victoria british one listed above covers the door, quarter windows, hatch, and hatch glass.

daniel is correct. Some auto parts stores. like my loca NAPA have a turning lathe on site and will turn rotors, drums, and flywheels for next to nothing. As daniel stated this allows you to have a fresh surface for your new clutch. I would also inspect the flywheel for cracks and any other anomolies. I'd give the ring gear a look also just to be certain you won't have any issues with the starter engaging the flywheel. Most replacement clutch kits come with the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and plastic alignment tool. I would agree as well to have a look at the rear main seal while you are in there. If this leaks, you'll get oil in your clutch assembly therefore causing slippage.

Phew...yeah thats a common area to say the least. Your first real task is to get a screwdriver, hammer and a scraper....remove the wheel, sit down....and now the fun begins. Since that area is all tied together, (passenger footwell/firewall, frame rail cradle, and tension compression rod support) you need to get poking around in there to see just how bad the rust is and what good metal is left. thats going to tell you what you have to work with. I have to ask....are you able to do any of the work yourself? Taking this to be done at a shop is not going to be cheap, that I can gurantee. I unfortunately have faced the same repair in the past.

Thanks for the info!! This is very interesting to me and its rather affordable. Man, would this make welding the floor support rails in that much easier! I like your car too. I also have an early 74 260 under restoration along with my 76. how much did you get your car for?

Can you post some info regarding the qwicklift...How much did that run you?

Nice, both of my clutch pedal assemblies are out of my two cars in the garage. I'll be checking them tonight

it can't be any worse than the 78 I sent to the graveyard with no floors, firewall, rad support, inner fenderwell, passenger inner rocker, battery tray and part of the trans tunnel. that was the worst one I have ever come across in my 12 years of Z experience.

Pics, Pics, Pics!!! Good luck with your newest purchase!

The picture of the blue one is a pic of the hood that you get with the car. I beleive he said the hood was tossed however he is throwing the hood from the blue in with the deal.

you can clearly see the mounting locations for the turn signals in the grill. clear giveaway there! Theres also the rear finisher that flows the rear panel into the rear bumper, and the door panels are specific to a later Z car.

Daniel is correct. you need to utilize one of the fuel injected heads.

It is a considerable amount of work as you need all of the wiring, sensors, relays, etc pertinent to the fuel injection swap. This has been discussed in great detail here and on Zcar.com, just do a search in the forum on the topic. While I guess I agree with everyone wanting the lighter tub with the fuel injection, however in my opinion its easier to buy a 280 as the work has already been completed. The 75 has a very early style feel to the interior and you can ditch the heavy bumpers and swap to the early 260 or 240 bumpers....

the tire well was changed in 77 to accomodate the collapsable spare. 76 was the last year of the full size spare and the tool stowage compartments I beleive were phased out mid 75. then early 75 cars I beleive were leftover 260 tubs which were slightly changed to accomodate the turn signal completely inside the grill verses the late 260 which had them half in and half out. I don;t know if the late 260s had the tool storage. my early 74 does.

Well for what its worth, I logged a complaint with the IFCC......Also I sent all of this over to Vince at Zcar.com. Maybe I should send something to Zhome as well. Thanks for the links 2many!

Just did a search in the forums and found the two posts bambi was referring too. scam Sellers beware. I knew this was crap the moment I read the stupid email. Now I'm on the hunt. anything we can do other than to advise everyone?

So some of you have seen that I am trying to see if I can sell my 260 project. I have posted it here as well as Zcar.com. I keep getting emails from people stating they want to buy my car. Their sentence structure and spelling is way off from the english language and to boot, the person emailing me never asks specifics really on the condition of the project...only that they are def going to buy it. Now, the person wants my address information so that they can send me a certified cashiers check (from a third pary mind you). The cashiers check they state is for the purchase price of the vehicle and that they have already made arrangements with a shipping company to come get it. I am told to cash the check.....take out what my price of the car is, and then give the rest of the funds to shipping company that is coming to get the car. My replies have been basically go scratch. This is def some shady scam. Anyone else ever encounter this??

well I can say that ebay never ceases to amaze me. I do give him credit on being so imaginative though. I'll bet the car has special aerodynamic racing floors too

Hey now, no need to make fun I;ve actually considered looking at this one to see how bad it is since its so close to me. I;ve owned worse:sleepy:

Oh one other thing, for identification purposes.. the R180's have a 5 bolt flange where the halfshaft goes into the rear. THe R-200's do not.

you can swipe the R200's out of the 2+2 cars from 75-78..I;ve had several :classic: