LeonV

Good stuff, I hope to get to that point someday. Nice job Dave!

I think the phrase your looking for is power/weight ratio, since weight has no bearing on horsepower. But yes, you are right in that the weight increase is the big reason for increasing displacement and hence, power. I'm not very knowledgable on the specific case of the MGB, but power rating standards in general were a bit muddy in the mid-70s. The key is comparing apples to apples, regarding net and gross SAE power ratings. This is analogous to comparing new EPA mpg numbers to the old (inflated) ones. The difference in the MGB's rated power could very well have been just on paper.

A WBO2 will work on any engine, whether it's a V-Twin or a V12. Tune one cylinder and mimic the jetting on the second one (or third, or 4th), it's not difficult. Like I said, you don't need a bung at all, there are clamps available that shove the O2 sensor down the exhaust pipe. Then, all you need are power and ground connections, also not difficult.

The 280Z had more power than both the 260Z and 240Z. The way power was rated varied over the years. The displacement increase was mostly due to increasing weight rather than emissions requirements.

It would be 110 Red, same as my 260Z. Ref: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

First off, thanks for posting your engine plate! Some people don't want to believe that the L26 had more power than the L24. But back on topic... As far as suspension parts go, not exactly. As I've learned from experience, the early 260Z is a very peculiar model in the Z-car line. The suspension is mostly 240Z, except for the front struts and steering rack. I have a thread here detailing some differences, with Dave's help. As far as the rack goes, the 240Z rack bushings will not work, they are too narrow as I recall. 280Z rack bushings are the correct ones for both the early and late 260Z. As far as I remember, the rest of the suspension should be very similar to late 240Zs. Let me know if you have any questions about your Z, I've really enjoyed getting to know my early 260!

We've had this discussion recently. There is no "flaming", just a logically presented argument. There is no need to take it personally. My WBO2 (14point7 Pure Plus) cost around $200 when I bought it 2 years ago, and the DIY version is under $200. They're probably a bit more expensive now, but there are others in that price range as well. Saving for a WB is easily justifiable when you consider the gains to be made from it. You can buy an exhaust adapter as well if you want to move it to your motorcycle, no bung needed. With that said, bungs aren't much of an expense anyway, plug them with a threaded plug when not in use and you're done. BTW, there is no age requirement to understanding and being able to tune carbs. Okay, you do have to be old enough to be able to turn a screwdriver and comprehend what you're doing. I'm probably not that much older than you. Saying that the colortune won't give you a complete tune is an understatement. It isn't really giving you any tune at all, just getting your idle mixture "close". I don't know about you, but my engine spends a lot more time under load than idling. That's a waste of $60, IMO. Like I've said, it's a novelty and if you think it's cool, by all means have at it. I think it's pretty cool to be able to essentially look into your combustion chamber. However, these days there is no good reason to recommended it for any serious tuning purposes.

The Colortune is an antiquated tool, made obsolete by affordable wideband O2 systems. A Colortune may help in getting your idle mixture close, but that's about all you can accomplish with it. I can accomplish essentially the same result, just using my ears. Save your money and get a WBO2, you'll never look back. Knowing what your mixture is at any rpm and any load is enormously helpful information to have. It doesn't matter whether you're a novice or a pro, it's flat out a far more useful tool.

Nice, Julio! It's always fun to take the ol' Z out on the open road every once in a while. I drove the Z to my fiancee's cousin's house on Sunday. Her 8-year-old cousin wanted a ride, and I quickly obliged! The Saturday prior, I helped install an intake for the dad of the 8-year-old cousin and of course included her in the process. She helped me remove a hose clamp and installed a new license plate frame. Her dad has a Mazdaspeed3 so she already loves going out on rides. Also, Top Gear is one of her favorite shows. Brainwashing at its finest, mwahahaha!

Yes!

It's EFI...

In that case, that joke would be more applicable were it Assar Gabreilsson instead of FA Porsche.

Does it matter? If you're set on staying with the L24, then it seems like you're not going for all out performance. Keeping the original L24 would be more of an emotional decision and not necessarily a rational one, i.e. if you were to only go by the numbers. A similarly-built L28 will have more power and torque. When it comes down to it, an L28 will have more but a well-tuned L24 will have plenty to have fun with. Nobody can predict the difference between some hypothetical L28 and L24.

If you want to compare and learn about the system, you can download free Factory Service Manuals at xenons30.com and xenons130.com.

That was too good to pass up!

If the '75 is stock, the EFI is nearly identical to the ZX. Take a picture of the engine compartment, it will be clear whether it's EFI or carb and the type of carb(s) if it did get converted.

You have a lot of reading and research ahead of you...

The camber issue in the back, plus the overspray would lead me to thoroughly inspect the rear of the car. Look underneath for bent mounts and control arms, and look in the hatch interior (take panels off) for crinkling of metal.

Maybe it's just the photo, but it looks like there are serious camber issues on the rear wheel. I'd check for damage, i.e. bent parts, frame, etc.

This has absolutely nothing to do with your timing chain. The chain controls valve timing, i.e. the relationship of the camshaft to the crankshaft. The distributor controls spark timing, the relationship of the spark plug firing to crankshaft postition. Your distributor was installed incorrectly and the plug wires were routed to compensate. 40 degrees of spark advance is way too much (let alone 47! ), dial it down so that you have about 33-35 degrees of total advance.

Interesting. If the progression holes are okay, then you are on your way to having a properly-running set of triples! I don't think the throttle valves were chamfered, unless someone modified them. But yes, it is a trick to get the throttle position just right for a smooth tip-in without raising idle speed or enriching the idle mixture. Looks like you've run into the typical triple carb installation issues, e.g. mismatched manifold thickness, throttle linkage, intake hitting header flange, etc. I remember the night I decided to slap my triples on. Started the swap around 9 or 10pm and finished around 1 or 2am. I had to hear them run so I started it up with an open header in the middle of the night. Oh the joy!

Cygnusx1 sells a nice linkage kit should you decide to change it up. I'm curious how your progression holes up with the throttle plate. The slightest throttle opening should expose the first downstream progression hole, otherwise you'll have a stumble. Good luck!

Thank you! I was just looking around for that thread, to link it here...

I use the mechanical pump with the stock feed and return lines for my triples. I do have an RX7 pump laying around that I plan on installing sometime... I'm not sure why you're fixated on Holley regulators. Search around a bit, especially on HybridZ to see what others have run. A "backpressure regulated" system is what you're looking for.

It's very simple, the regulator gets placed in-line with your return line. It essentially replaces the small orifice in the stock fuel rail's return line. Fuel comes from the carbs, into the regulator, out of the regulator, to the return line and back to the tank. I'm sure info on specific regulators is out there, I don't have any part numbers for you but there are a ton out there that will work.