motorman7

Congrats Jay!!! Thanks again for your support of the Z community.

Very interesting. I thought that might be the purpose. It really got me to thinking about the possibilities of an electric powered turbo, at least for low RPM's. I was thinking of a motor/blower similar to those high velocity hand dryers, only running on 12V. Definitely need an alternator upgrade for that. Would probably need some type of vaccuum operated gate to bypass the electric turbo at higher RPM's as I don't think the electric could keep up. Just my thoughts - may have to toy with that some day.

And I thought I was the only one still running with the original 1970 plug wires. Dad said as long as they work, no need to replace them. He was a highly accomplished Electrical Engineer, so I'll take his word for it.

Below is a pic of said '73 EGR and Smog Pump

And that would make me a "SoCal idiot". When changing the rear springs on my yellow Z several weeks ago, forgot to use the spring compressor and once the bolt was loosened the spring launched the top mount onto my freshly painted Silver Z. No dent, but 3 deep scratches. Only consolation was that my face was not in front of the top mount.

Hi Lance, No pics of Red car unfortunately. I think there were too many people around it to get a good shot. Here are a couple more pics. I like the Tan Z, looks like the old 510 tlight tan color. Thought it was cool

You must be talking about this one. I couldn't figure out what the dryer hose was for :-|

three more. Saw another yellow Z in the parking lot so had to get a pic

Attached are some of my favorite pics from the show

It may have been. I was a bit more focused on the exhaust sound and wheel set-up that I missed the badges. The tires were pretty wide and I think beyond the fender well. I am surprised that I had not seen it before because I typically am in that area at the same time every working day, just as I get off the freeway. Will have to keep my eyes peeled. He must work within a half mile of me as he turned left into one business park at the same place I turned right.

Raced a white 240Z today on the way to work. Saw him in my In my rear view window so I slowed to let him catch up. Guess he saw me too, so he sped up, then slowed a bit. That’s when I heard the turbo blow off valve whoosh, and I knew I was in trouble. We both gunned it and sped up a hill moving pretty quick, he was quicker but I was still fairly close when we backed off at about 80mph, approaching traffic. We rolled down the windows and he said he was running a “Skyline Motor”, so I guess that is an RB20DET. I’ve got a 260 motor with high compression pistons (10.5:1) 6 into 1 headers and stock carbs with SM needles and ZX dizzy. It’s peppy, but not enough to beat the RB. Made my day though! Honestly, in the over 2 years that I’ve had the yellow Z, that’s the first time I ever really pushed it against another car. Nice that is was a another Z. I really need to get LS motor installed someday:ermm:.

Cut the bottom 1/3 of the BSPT Tap and it worked perfect. Was able to run tap all the way into the hole. Attached the air galley into the manifold using some anti-seize copmpound for lube. Will install assembly in Silver Z today or tomorrow.

Here are the pics of the ride height on my Yellow Z with the Tokico 5 way's and the Eibach springs. I cut one lower coil on each of the front springs. This is exactly what I was looking for in ride height. I can slide my hand between the top of the tire and the fender well on both front and back. The wheels are 16X7 Panasports with 205/60/16 Yokohamas. The car handles great...I love it.

Just for reference, anyone planning on tapping the holes out to install the original air galley should use the ¼”-19 BSPP tap. The BSPT will not go deep enough to allow you to start the threaded fittings of the air galley. Unfortunately, I ordered the BSPT tap and the fittings will not start into the holes. Got out my calipers and found that about half way up the tap, the thread max OD is 0.537”. The air galley fittings are 0.542” OD and will not thread into the smaller diamter. The upper portion of the tap is 0.545”, so that part will work. I will take a die grinder to the tap this afternoon and cut-off the lower, smaller diameter portion of the tap. This should make it possible to tap the hole to the right diameter, instead of popping another $20 for the BSPP tap. The tap can be purchased from McMaster-Carr as discussed earlier here.

Installed the Eibach springs on my Yellow Z last weekend. I had been running the stock springs with the Tokico 5 way adjustables. The stock 40 year old springs were getting pretty weak and the rear was sagging more and more. Guess that happens with age  . I even went so far as to cut 1.5 coils off the front stock springs just to get the car level. Anyway, I am very happy with the Eibach springs. I did cut off one coil on the front Eibach springs to get the car level. I can slide my hand in between the top of the tire and the fender well. Both front and rear have the same amount of clearance. I will post pictures once I get a chance to take a decent photo. I am running 16 X 7 Offset Panasports and 205/60/16 Yokohama 520’s. The best part of the springs is that my steering wheel shimmy is gone when driving at freeway speeds. My steering wheel used to oscillate back and forth about .5 inches between 50 and 70 MPH. I thought it was wheel bearings or alignment. Had the car aligned and no difference. Now with the Eibachs, the steering wheel shimmy is gone. A very pleasant surprise. Now I need to see if the rear end vibration at 100 MPH is gone. Haven’t had a chance to take the car to that speed yet, but I am hoping the springs were the problem. Will post again here once I get pics and 100MPH data. Rich

I love the color and the motor. Need to get one of those motors for my yellow Z. Thanks for posting the pics.

I do think the outside temp and humidity effect the final product. There are days when things plate perfectly, and others where you really have to work at it and re-do the parts. Weather is my only guess. It wouldn't hurt to filter your plating tank. I just take an old dress shirt and pour the liquid from one 5 gallon bucket into another using the shirt material as a filter.

You're question is a bit of a challenge as there are a number of steps in the process, especially after the zinc plate. I have run into what you are mentioning but changing my procedure has helped. I will detail what I am currently doing and what works best for me, and maybe that will help. Currently I am doing the heated acid bath for 15 minutes or less, then the electro-zinc plating for about 15 minutes. I am guessing you are probably doing this. For the brightener, I put in one teaspoon about every 3 or 4 batches - as needed to get the brightness I am looking for. Once I am zinced, I use a spray bottle with RO water to clean/rinse the part, then I dip into blue chromate for about 30-40 seconds. You may not be using the blue chromate, but it gives you the nice rainbow effect on the parts plus helps the yellow to stick. Immediately after the blue chromate, I dip the parts into the yellow chromate for about 2 minutes till I get the right shade of 'gold', then I rinse in a bucket of very hot tap water, then light air dry from the compressor (10 -15 psi). The very hot tap water is key. I think if you rinse with cold water it effects the yellow plating. This is what I was running into. Also, I make sure my yellow chromate is heated to about 90 degrees F. This seems to help a lot. Also, regarding the quick rusting, sounds like you are not getting enough zinc on the parts. I'd crank up the Amps a bit or increase plating time. Hope that helps. Rich

Hi Cam, Congrats on the new car! Does that make 3 now? I don't have a turbo, but keep thinking about it. I keep waffling between the turbo or the LS motor for my yellow Z eventually. Of course I have to finish the roadster first and that may take a while. Too many projects. Unfortunately, my job keeps interfering wih my hobby. Have fun with the new car, Rich

Thanks Cozye, that's gorgeous!

Thanks for all the pics Steve, they look awesome! Special request - Can you get a picture of the motor in that Safari gold Series 1 with the hubcaps for me? Will be going home now to make sure mine is still in the garage

Link work great! Who's car is File007 and File0079. That car looks exactly like mine and I'm not there :-|

Living in SoCal, I don't even comprehend cold weather :-)

I agree with you on the well over 60+. I think crash tests and horsepower are a bit overrated here in the US. Personally, I have just decided not to crash , so no need to beef up the car weight with all that safety stuff. As for horsepower, I was very content with my little Datsun roadster's 94 hp back in the '70's when I was a teen. It's plenty of horsepower today to get me where I need to go. No need for 300 Hp in that baby. Of course Motor Trend, Car & Driver, and Road and Track magazines wouldn't like it, but they don't pay my gas bill. Anyway, just cool to see a lightweight turbo diesel out there. I'm all for it.

A Diesel in the series 1 sounds like a great idea. I for one would like to see Detroit produce a high mileage Econo car that weighs about 2000 pounds and has a 1 liter turbo diesel with 6 speed for a drive train. I'm betting you could get 60 MPG with that.