hogie

Ok, sounds like i was fine after all. Unfortunealy, today the amperage was following my RPM. The odd part is the sensing wire was showing right around 14 volts at idle so I wouldnt think it would keep ramping up with revs. I guess it must be time to drop it off at autozoo for some testing.

I recently upgraded to an 83 280zx alternator and added relays to my headlights and fuel pump. I also picked up the MSA Dual fan kit. Yesterday I replaced some wire and redid the connections for the main power wires (white/red, solid white) at the fuse block and by the accessory relay. I have read that once you start to power items with relays it bypasses the amp meter so that it will read higher than it really is. With the lights and fan on my meter is right in the middle of 0 and +45 and it doesn't follow engine rpm. Is this too high? I connected my multimeter to the radio power wire and it showed 14.36 volts so I don't think I am over charging. I just want to make sure that I am not about to blow up the battery or toast the wiring (which so far is much cooler than it was)

Ouch, guess not then. I didn't realize that it was flat on one side.

My guess is you will need to make a trip to fastenal or something like that for an equivalent grade 10.9 bolt. Have you checked MSA? They seem to have an odd assortment of nuts and bolts.

If you need that much current just put on a single wire gm alternator. They crank out a ton more and there is a bunch on posts on hybridz saying how to do it. The mods are pretty simple looking. Had the 280zx alternator not been so cheap and easy that is the route i would've taken.

Even without using the plug and play option the 280zx alternator upgrade is cake. I had a wire break just before the connector so I just spliced everything together and added a diode. I have got to retighten my belt, but it has worked well so far.

I dont think old chevy trucks have insulation on their frame straps? But then they do burst into flames with a side impact

How important is the insulator? My car didnt have them with the straps so I put it together as it was. Though the straps and tank are painted/undercoated real nice.

I followed the instructions in the link on post #2. I thought alot of the smell problem was the fact that the lines are getting old and crappy as well, not so much of the tank itself stinking. Capping crappy lines wouldn't help in that case. Though I wouldn't really know as I removed it as soon as I got the car.

I gotta threadjack this one. How far + on the Ammeter is a bad thing? I knew a big drain was bad, but didnt think charging was.

I removed mine and the most expensive bit was the 5/8" fuel injection hose from Napa and I think I got $7 worth or so. The rest of the line is common autozone/lowes bits and shouldn't set you back very much at all.

Much like powderkeg I used a shiny allen bolt based terminal from Scoshe at Wally world. It is Pretty and well stuck on there. Though the battery cut off switch I have tied to it looks ugly as hell.

I've got to replace my water pump so I will be doing the same darn thing as well. Though hopefully the studs will come out as well. I dont think my new pump has them.

There are nuts on studs that run through the pulley. Back those off and you can pull it all apart.

Those are pretty nice cable ends. Though I have found Electric/Welding shops to have the best deals on cable. Stereo shops have really nice pretty cable, but it is way too expensive

I finally got everything apart and noticed a couple of odd things. With no driveshaft 1-5 is perfectly smooth with no pop out in overdrive. Since everthing seemed smooth I tossed the driveshaft back in with the differential installed in the proper set-back position and now 1-4 runs good down the road, but 5th still pops out as soon as I let the clutch out. I would be all about an RT mount, though the mount I have now appears to be almost never driven on. I do have a drive line clunk when getting off the gas in 1st and 2nd. There is no slop in the u-joints and the mount is good so I am not sure where it is coming from. Who thinks I will miss overdrive?

This is what I used to check the level of mine. Find a bolt that will fit the bowl drain and drill it out to fit a right angle fitting. Mine was from a one man brake bleeder kit. Attach a peice of tube and away you go. Yould also place a tube on the bottom of the bowls nipple, but you wont be able to run it in that condition. <a href="http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z82/wangchung_01/240z/240z%20carbs/?action=view&current=PICT0008.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z82/wangchung_01/240z/240z%20carbs/th_PICT0008.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

Nissan had these at least in december or so. Not much more than the semi unavailable autozoo parts.

This is for new and not used, but they are asking alot for it. There was a new old stock system on ebay not too long ago for $810, though it didnt sell at that point. It was relisted and made it to $1075, but I am not sure if it ever sold. I have a similar set-up new in the box for a 260/510 and hope to put it up for sale soon. Since the concensus is it doesnt work well in the first place I will probaly not instal it.

I think mine was a light blue wire with a skinny white fuse holder. There were a pair of them, one goes to who knows what and the other the blower. Both were on blue wires

I managed to get it off of there yesterday. I flipped the rear diff mount, bolted the rear end back in, set the parking brake, and gently popped it into reverse. That little amount of twist was just enough to break whatever tension was holding it together. I am removing the powder coating from the flange and that should make it a little less tight for next time. Having the diff set back the right amount makes driveshaft removal much easier. Oh, and open exhaust is ridiculous loud on these things!

Are you getting power to the starter solenoid when you try to crank it over?

You will be fine with that jack. Unless they have changed since I borrowed my friends, it was built plenty well. I just picked up the $50 transmission jack adapter because I didnt see yours the other night. I may have to return it for that one. Heck, the sears version of the adapter is at least $180.

Ok, I have the drive shaft darn near out of the car, but ran into a problem. The drive shaft flange is stuck to the rear end. All bolts are out and I can't get the two seperated. Is it acceptable to whack at the joint with a brass punch or a rubber mallet? Also, it looks like the front differential mount is facing the wrong way. This was/is pulling the rear end and driveshaft into the 71 position! I think this is why I had so many problems with putting it in in the first place. Right now i have the tranny half dropped and the rear diff loose. The drive shaft is pulling out of the transmission and not away from the flange. It has just a fraction of an inch not out. If I am lucky moving this back to the way it should be will get rid of some of my noise/problems, but I doubt it.

Another trick I tried was to resize and print out one of the pics showing the proper orientation. I punched the bolt holes and cut out the center....and then just lined everything up.