smg1404

I just looked at your pictures.... I cannot see anything that needs repair... Your car looks very clean..

There are many reasons.. Bondo tends to cause more rust eventually... Bondo is heavy, Bondo tends to crack and split with age. Bondo is not structural.

So much space... soooooo little content.... But I guess fun is valuable too.

The big problem with starting with sooo little, is that most people underestimate the amount of work needed to completely rebuild a car.. I did. If I had to start over again, I would get as nice of a car as I could afford. Most of the time the cars that someone else cleaned up can be bought for much less than the guy put into the car.. If possible look for a car that never got rusted to bits in the first place... The extra money you spend will be returned in saved time and greater value for a clean car..

Heck I live with that all the time.. My car is a blast, but the poor gas mileage, and other small but nagging issues sometimes make me think I'm out of my mind.. There are several sports cars that could get me into the around 30mpg range, and still be fun to own... A lotus comes to mind.. Your right the 944's are getting cheap also... The biggest problem there is I always had a grudge against those snobbish Porsche drivers.. I'm not sure I could handle being one. But yeah I know what you mean.. I usually cure it by going out and kicking up some hell with my Z... I usually feel better right away..

Most of the air dams do connect using the existing bolt holes.. I will post a closeup of the mounting for my air dam tonight... I don't have a picture showing any of the details yet, but I will take one. I used cariage bolts to connect mine. After the heads are painted they look pretty good. The most important part, (for me) is to build a floor right behind the dam to bridge the gap between the frame and the back of the air dam.. If you don't build it the air dam is just trim, not a functional air dam. I build these out of aluminum.

I think I have the solution, although not necessarily a cheap one... I have been looking into wheel adapters. They allow you to put nearly any wheel you on your car... The cost is about 180.00 for the complete package

I paid $94.00 each mounted balanced and out the door for mine... They are 205/60/14.. I got AVS ES100, this is a realtively new model (I think) So far I am very impressed. Especially with the wet traction. It's almost like there is no water on the raod, these tires really stick well. My Autocross class is E Street Prepared. I am currently trying to make sure that is the right class.

Drive that sucker.. Heck If I couldn't drive my car I would sell it for something that I could use... This is my daily driver, and fun car. I like to have fun all of the time.. Heck driving in the snow and ice is half the fun.. I can't believe it ..... @%#$$$@ sissy car owners. No offence intended, but Geeezzz!!!

If you are looking for more accelleration at 60mph, downshift, you are not properly using the gears in fourth..

I am running a stock L24 with a different set of carbs and headers.. I am getting back into autocrossing, and mostly just drive locally, (not much highway). So I don't need ton's of power to be happy. Still I feel I have a pretty quick ride.

I would be surprised if the Lex motor would not be rejected by your Z.... There is a long history of competition between Toyota products and Nissan products. Kind of like putting a Ford engine in a Chevy.. Why would any right thinking person do this???? Anyway , I also doubt the Lex motor will make more power than an RB engine.. Good luck anyway ,,, It's your money.

Well I have the tires on the car.. They are very responsive, and seem to be capable of generating quite a bit of turning force. I drove in today in some light rain, and the wet performance is better the the dry performance of the tires I had before these. I plan to autocross them on 11/3 so that will give a real good chance to push them hard. I will update again after I run the competition.

Does it turn??? Or just burn tires.

I have to agree with the statement that street racing is not a good idea.. Very dangerous, and illegal. Besides, unless the Chevelle is a sissy, and your Z is modified, you ain't never going to beat it drag racing... A good running late sixties Chevelle should mop the floor with you any day.. Get real. I can't imagine there is a part of the country that does not have a local drag strip, use it, not the streets... Imagine how bad for all concerned if you splatter a family, or any other innocent victom all over the road someday..

I just ordered a set of Yokohama AVS ES100 tires for my Z.... Has anyone had any experience with these tires... The reviews look very good. But a second opinion would be OK too.. Hope I didn't screw up.

It is a very valuable asset to me as well. The combined knowlege from around the world, can be used to answer almost any question about Zcars.

No... I would like to, but I probably need to put money into other parts of the car. I will probably add a brake proportioning valve. The brakes are working much better now, I have plenty of power to put to the fronts.. They lock first now, so I want to add a valve to try and balance the brakes.

Anyone know a good place to get some Koni strut cartriges... All I can find are Tokico's . If not, are the Tokico's as good as the Koni's?..

The noise level mostly depends on the rest of the exhaust system.... The headers will increase the level some....

I still have some air in the system,, or something else going on. But I can tell already that the increase in stopping power is fantastic.. Before I had brakes... Nothing to brag about, but they stopped the car (sort of)... Now even though I have a bit to much pedal travel, I feel like I have the ability to chock the brakes easily any time I want... I have only driven a few miles so far on this new setup, but I thinl it was a good thing to do... I feel safer. I probably spent too much, I bought a set of used calipers for $80.00, and after looking them over, decided that I wanted to trade them in for rebuilds... So I have about $240.00 in the upgrade, but I have all new or rebuilt hardware.. I used the old set for cores. With brakes better safe than sorry.. The calipers I used are from an '88 4Runner 6 cylinder... They had bigger pistons than the 4 cylinder set.. I had to space the calipers inward 1/8th of an inch. I bought hardened washers for this. I also used 1/8th inch wheel spacers to give a little more clearance between the caliper and my wheels..The 1/8th inch spacing inward put the caliper dead center with the disk. I was concerned at first, because the space between the rotor and the pads seemed like too much. But when I checked out how deep the pistons went into the caliper , I saw that there was plenty travel to handle this gap... After I pumped them in the brakes seem to work very well..

What year car?

Todays effort now mostly complete. I still need to rework the lines a little.

If you want a car that is for the drag strip.... don't even waste your time on a nissan engine.... you cannot replace cubic inches without spending lots of money. 300 hp is a lot for an L series engine.....It is where you start with a small block.

Hey!! It's not the size.....It's what you do with it....