Mikes Z car

beermanpete, Thanks for the link.

Nice speedometer picture. Put the gas tank back in I took out in the spring to seal, no leaks. Thanks to all of you for making that easy with your posts. Drove the car today to get a fill up and the tank capacity totals to 15.6 including the 10 gallons I put in at the house. Doesn't include the drive to the gas station though (7 miles). Undercoated the area the tank normally conceals, painted tank exterior and straps with Rust Bullet and black shell. That was a fun drive to the gas station. First real drive since last year.

Neat idea! I wish someone sold these.

Looks great. Hopefully my picture wasn't confusing because it should be turned 90 degrees counterclockwise to be correct. I had cropped it and the upload process turns it sideways if the picture is too tall apparently. I didn't know that might happen.

Happy Birthday INST3D! This is what my 240Z (MFR 1/1970) looks like in the dogleg area.

Sounds great. Looks like fun too.

Nice drawing by the way. I asked if the panel was for a 280Z because my 240z has a couple of additional holes in that panel towards the left and down though at least one would be off screen in your picture. I don't know that the left/right panels are different I never thought to look. What is your goal with your drawing? I tend to put as much detail as I think I can do in my drawings but I don't know if it is always a good idea. Sometimes simpler is better for clarity but I like detail accuracy if I can stand to take the time to do it. Let your conscience be your guide.

That looks like the inner metal panel over the wheel well on the right side of the car, must be a 280Z?

Thank you bpilati, hopefully someone else can use the information. Mike

The flux capacitor is only used for the anti gravity drive. Since he didn't say the anti gravity isn't working I would have to assume it is working fine.

I did that one morning about 1 AM with a Triumph GT6. Fortunately there was almost no other traffic at the time. I felt like I had to really pay attention to what I was doing though.

I remember seeing that 240Z in that video. I think I remember now that they owned one.

On my car there are two connectors one for each of the two white/red wires above the passenger's right knee, '70 240Z.

I have been leaving my hood unlatched until I get around to putting a backup release on. Thanks for the ideas on making a backup release.

This is going to sound ridiculous but I have had the idea of someday building an early Z look alike on a bicycle frame by using my existing early Z as a form. I don't know if the end result would be strong enough but have thought about covering my existing Z with a plastic sheet and putting maybe paper mache over that with a thin fiberglass veneer over that and then pedal the whole thing around. Well, I said it was going to sound ridiculous!

Junkyards and Z fenders at the side of the road do count. I used to see an orange 240Z here with a license plate that said something about Suzy. Not sure of spelling. It looked to be in great condition. Someone was sitting in the parking lot near my daily driver car in a gold 280ZX that was in excellent condition a year ago. They must have kept it garaged.

Hi all, I put in an access door for the large fuel vapor hose that connects on top of the back of the gas tank making it easier to change out the hose. After dropping the tank to change that leaking hose I realized I wanted easier access to that hose though I recognize it might be a while before it needs replacing again. I figure anything that makes upkeep easier prolongs the life of the car. I put an aluminum rod approx 1/4" DIA about 10 inches long into the part of the hose that connects to the gas tank that was to be bent into a "U" shape to keep the hose from kinking and closing off. I verified this after bending by blowing through the hose. The hose I used was not OEM. It is no doubt stouter than needed as it is rated for 350 PSI, marine use and is ethanol resistant. It fit fine on the tank though on the other end I had to slit one side with a hacksaw to get it to fit over the nylon hose connector at the fill tube. I clamped it on with a radiator clamp and sealed the slit with Seal All. The hose was stiff to install but should last a long time. Mike Final result, painted access door (other pictures taken before paint): View thru door (new hose):......................................................Door closed: Bottom view no tank:...............Access door seal: Access door hole location:........Original hose seen here: Fuel vapor hose I used (very stiff hose) (pictures of numbers seen on hose): Weatherhead 5/8" H10110 Made in USA 1008, MSHA 1C - 46/6: End view with ruler showing diameter: New hydraulic hose is a tad too big to allow grommet to fit in hole in car so I just pulled rubber grommet down the hose slightly and didn't use it. Hose is very strong (rated 350PSI), IMO doesn't need grommet: Seal All applied next to filler hose:

I guess this is one of them? Found it in their August archives.

Reminds me of my daily commute

Thanks for the write up and the great pictures.

What did you take apart?

I tend to think of anything that is reversible as being okay but depending on a person's skill level almost anything is reversible. I also like the idea of anything goes to overcome no longer avaialble parts.

Hi all, I need some help identifying convenient holes for spraying the interior of the rear frame rails and cross members with anticorrosion spray. The attached drawing made from the chassis dimension drawing and measurements made on my 70 240Z shows two holes under the carpet in the back of the rear deck that may be of use. I also know that there are two large suspension bolts on the bottom of what I am calling the front crossmember on each side that potentially could be taken out temporarily. Are there other holes? I don't know if the one the gas tank J Bolt goes through on the passenger side frame rail is big enough for any useful spraying. Thanks for any ideas on making this info more useful, I realize I will likely have to drill a few holes but want to minimize them and want to choose locations for them that do not require taking anything off of the car if anyone has any thoughts on that. I showed the drawing to someone who said where are the dimensions? Well the drawing is to scale and when I am done I will put it on my blog with dimensions in case this is of any use to someone else. Mike

Steve, From memory of another thread, on the moustache bar being flipped, the early 240Z had the diffy a few inches forward towards the front of the car compared to later 240Zs. This meant the half shafts came back from the diffy towards the wheel at an angle instead of straight out like on the later Zs. The change was supposed to reduce noise. This new setup apparently required the moustache bar to be flipped over 180 degrees around its length so it provided support further back than the original setup. Others I feel sure understand this better than me. Mike

I have an early 240Z (MFR 1/70) and I remember reading the moustache bar is flipped over for my car compared to yours meaning I think there would be much less room between the moustache bar and the suspension hangar for you than what is seen on my picture. Maybe you need a picture aimed straight up between the two? I might be the only one having difficulty figuring out exactly what you need to see. As I have rambled here you have helped me figure out what they meant by flipping the moustache bar over in converting my rear end setup to the setup you have for the later Z. Mike