JEFF

If the motor is in the bed ...... What is under the hood? - storage? - Jeff

Znut73 - Check your E-mail

Quote "Careful, you'll go blind if you do that too much!" HAHAHA!!!:stupid: - Jeff

The head bolts are interchangeable - I just did it to my 240Z a month ago. I put a '78 N47 head and the F.I with the electronic ignition on. I mixed head bolts from each - used the short bolts from near the intake ports as they are always in better condition. ( I made 1 fast revving 2.4L motor ) Love it! - Jeff

2ManyZs - Your "cheapo" wheel looks good to me !! Does it feel as good as it looks? - Jeff

Order a free calaloge on line at Victoria British.com As far as running with the old is concerned - you are taking the chance that the tensioner will pop out of its socket - that can happen if the chain is streched real bad & the tensioner surface is worn a lot. New with peace of mind for $80? - i would replace it all. - Jeff

New gaskets do not need a gasket sealant - be sure the mating surfaces are CLEAN and flat - assemble using the recomended foot pounds. You will not have a problem there for a nother 30+ years. - Jeff

As MikeW said get the car checked out by someone knowledgeable. If you know a few things : Check the compression to be sure it is even across all 6, Check the color of the antifreeze - it should be green or in some cases pink, Also take the valve cover breather hose off at the valve cover with the engine running and feel the opening - it should have very little air pushing out of the hole;(the engine may/will stumble when you pull the hose off, normal) Remove the air cleaner cover and do a carb piston 'drop test' - lift it up fully with one finger and let it drop - you should hear a 'clunk' when they hit the bottom, they should also fall at the same rate & move easily. - Jeff

The timing chain kit in the Victoria British catalog has every thing needed behind the front engine cover. It has: Chain & both gears, both chain guides, both cover gaskets, the harmonic balance pully seal & the full chain tentioner assy. All for $80 --- not bad at all - Jeff

That big round thing under the glove compartment is the heater/airconditioner blower motor (fan)that is where the water noise was probably coming from. I think the water got in there through the fresh air in take tubes. I wouldn't turn the fan on for a day or two then run it when ever you drive it ( on lowest speed ) for the next week or untill the water noise is gone. I do not think there would any lasting damage to anything with a one time soaking. You could put a fine screen in/at the opening of the fresh air intakes where they come out in the front of the rad. suport, maybe some thing like screen from a screen door. I think that would greatly reduce that kind of water volume from entering again. Good luck - Jeff

I used a cup wire wheel in my drill motor on mine -- FANTASTIC results in about 30 seconds. The cup wheel I used was 2" dia. then a 3/4" 'brush' got me in the corners and the ports. Run the wire wheel all over the outside of the head as well - makes it look like it's nickel plated!! - Jeff

sapruns - VERY nice work you've done - be proud of it!! - Jeff

That's VERY VERY COOL!! - Jeff

ZmeFly - Maybe I should be quiet about turbo exhaust. The stuff about NEEDing the restriction ---- I thought it would apply to all exhaust systems on all cars - Thanks for getting me straightend out on the subject. - Jeff

I like the stock one shown --- can I have it? - Jeff

Who did the polishing for you?? I tried to get mine to shine like that but ran out of energy before I was that far. - Jeff

Some turbo cars NEED the restriction produced by the cat - did you notice a performance decreece after the cat was gutted? A good turbo Header and properly flowing exhaust is a must for good acceleration. When I put 2-1/2" pipe on my 240Z I lost all my low end power but gained top end ( it would do 143 mph) I reduced the exhaust size to 1-7/8" I got all my low end back - So there is such thing as "to large" on an exhaust pipe. - Jeff

Thats not cardboard - its factory applied tar - it should be on the floor of the whole trunk area also -- along with under the front carpet. - if it peels off easy its probably because rust has started under it. - Jeff

I know i would like to have it! - Jeff

The bottom fell out of my jacuzzi about 5 years ago - that was a pain in the arse to fix. So be glad you have a jacuzzi !! - Jeff

How many miles are on your engine? Are there any aftermarket performance parts on your engine? When was the air filter changed last? Plugs changed last? What octaine of gas do you use? Is your auto trans fluid full? Is your turbo waste-gate fully opening? - Jeff

Put the #1 pistion at TDC and remove the distributor - the drive tab should be at about a 5 deg. angle,(up to your right), to the mounting bolt holes.If not then remove and replace the oil pump as nessasarry to get it there. Once you have that on and the distributor replaced - line up the static timing marks on the distributor base plate. The engine should start in this position. - Jeff

OK- here we go from memory. With the front engine cover/cam gear/chain all removed. turn the crank manualy untill the #1 piston is at tdc of compression stroke - you will know that it IS the comp. stroke if the timing marks on the crank pully are at about 10 - 11 o'clock position, and the timing "dot" on the crank gear is on the drivers side. Turn the cam manualy untill both valves have just closed on the #1 cyl. then put the cam gear on - lining the dowel with dowel hole #1. look thru the cast hole in the gear to align the notch in the gear hub with the 'dash' mark on the cam keeper - rotate the cam untill they align perfictly. both valves of #1 should have remained closed the whole time - as only a short distance of rotation was req'd. Remove the cam gear. Install the chain on the crank gear - align the bright link with the 'dot' on the gear. NOTE: there are 2 bright links (22 links apart on the short side) they both need to be on the drivers side of cam/crank. Reinstall the cam gear with the chain and chain tentioner in place. the bright link on the cam end of the chain should be aligned with position 1 on the cam gear. Install the front cover carefully - do not damage any gaskets. Check / Referance your manual for clarification along the way. - Jeff

another 4-5 years i may leave the Doc's office with the same types of smiles. - Jeff

2manyz Are you about 40 years old?? - Jeff