Ken

:devious: Designer Cat Try and get this feline in that carrier

:classic: G'Day Rick No, can't say as I have.......

My Zee and Me............

:classic: 1 Bravo 6 You mention the period 65/66, would this happen to be in the area north of Vung Tau, ( diggers & kewei's) RVN ?

:classic: Your welcome!! sjcurtis is correct in that the radiator level should be lowered to a point below the thermostat housing. Even after doing this you will still have some coolent exit from the thermostat housing, so have a rag or paper towels to catch the amount that drains from the thermostat. Yesterday I had to replace the sensor sending unit in the front of the thermostat housing and had to do the same procedure. After 32 years my sensor had shorted and it was un-nerving to drive with the coolent temperature guage reading +250 degrees F. Sending sensor to Nissan in order that they can perform a failure analysis to determine defect cause!!

:sick: No, its there!! Now half the screen is taken up with ads. Its like peeking between the bottom of a windowshade and the bottom of the windo (wide screen modified).

:beard: Sounds like Welding 101 or someone who has had recent experience......

The same thing happened to me when I was returning from the show in Syracuse, NY. Identical. A buddy of mine disconected the ign lead from the starter solonoid and had me turn the ign key on with the gearshift in neutral. He took a screwdriver and shorted between the battery and ign connection on the starter solonoid. Car turned over and started. Got me home and let me know it was not the battery. That left two items. The electrical switch on back of ign lock and the starter brushes worn out. I picked up a re-built starter and an ign electrical switch. The rebuilt starter cured the problem. The new, rebuilt starter really spins the motor now! I am keeping the ign electrical switch for when that wears out. Good luck

"Lock-Jaw" type pliers may work also. Just clamp them tight onto the locknut and you may be able to remove. Same "Disclaimer" applies!

One way is to use a socket wrench that you can tap onto the lock nut and then you will be able to turn lock nut off. Don't drive socket on too far or you will split the socket. Disclamer: This is what I have heard! I have never personally tried to do this!

:classic: I hope you have solved the problem with the camber of your left front wheel. A problem like that can be very simple or complex. Only reason I mention mixture wheel directional orientation is the fact that I have found the guidance to be very confusing in many of the publications. In many cases individuals end up opening the mixture wheen and encountering a larger problem. Have you chatted with 2Manyz? I finially got to meet him and chat at the Sayracuse show and autoX.

To close the fuel mixture knobs turn counterclockwise (as your looking down from above)( if under the car looking up you turn clockwise). Then open both two to two and a half turns. This should give you a starting point as long as your fuel bowls are not flooding. Is your choke set on or off. If your plugs are fuel soaked try with your choke off.

1972(10/71) Datsun 240Z, Code 901 Metallic Silver

The "FAT LADY" is ready to sing!

Yes, there are two E-88 heads. An early, desired and a later one. I have a 72 240Z (manufactured in October of 1971) with the early E-88 head.

Way to go Kmack!! I do believe you will drive to the convention! Got to love that color!! Close to the Aztec Red on my 91 300ZX(Arrest me Red). Meter maids try to give me tickets even when it is parked (because they believe it exceeds legal speeds when in motion). I'll bet your getting anxious. Really making progress now. We have snow flakes today (32 degrees). Last week was 93 degrees. Thats New England for you.................

To avoid overfilling I use a medicine dropper to add ATF until the fluid level is between the two indicators just above the plunger. Less messy and who wants ATF running into the carbs and bell housings which can gum and cause sticking or slowing of the piston.

This may be the "scuff pad" located on top of the rocker panel along with the alumunin finish panel that is mounted there. I have seen occasions where the vinyl has seperated and the metal plate beneath has started to rust. If this is the case, the "scuff pads or panels" can be replaced.