conedodger

I did several. I posted the how-to on NNZCC.COM. First, I rubbed the 'wood' with scotch bright pads until i had a nice whitish and very smooth surface. Then I taped off the 'wood' portion and soda blasted the spokes. Then re-taped and sprayed the spokes with satin finish black. I then reversed the taping and put clear marine varnish on the 'wood.' Using anything other than clear changes the color so be careful with that, you might not like it. I have sold these to guys as far away as Dubai and Saudi Arabia and gotten great feedback on the results...

Too bad it's so slow and can't keep up with it's cousin on the other side of the mountain!! He he!!! 8-)

POR-15? Ehhh... I'd bet Gary will put primer sealer and that is all. I've known way too many who have found rust in panels sealed with POR and the likes. Herman, stop finding rust and drive the damned car! :-)

A couple of nice guys going racing...

Yes, a friend of mine is developing this right now for use in his own shop. Original Customs in Sonoma CA. Like Original Cusoms on Facebook and ask him about it...

A couple PLN shots...

What are you looking to do? If a 240Z and a 280Z both need restoration, it's true the 240Z will probably be worth more in the end. But, if you think about it as a car you want to drive, then don't worry about what it's worth. Wierd thing is, the 280Z guys backdate their bumpers to look like 240Z's, and the 240Z guys put in L28's and 5 speeds... I say, just drive it!

How close is it Brian. Sometimes, what was on there before the paint was faded but you're describing painted areas that shouldn't fade. I wouldn't obsess over it and mine is original and I advocate original. Unless a paint job is complete so all areas that can be seen when the car is fully assembled are the same color, you have lost value. Painting the original color preserves value. The highest value is always a 'Preservation Car' that has just been kept in as good a condition as possible. I have owned one, (Porsche 911) and it sold for $400 more than the original sticker price.

I have LoJack. Go ahead. Make my day... 8-)

This a corollary to the subject but it has been brought up several times. An LSD and a TBD aren't the same thing. I assume that since I hear the STi uses a Torsen type that it is actually a TBD you are putting in. Having used Quaiffe and Gleason/Torsen TBD's for years, I can speak to the difference they make. Those of us who race and autocross love our 'mid-corner speed.' When you go back on throttle in the corner, the only drama is acceleration not wheel spin with the TBD. It is often said that LSD is best for road race courses, so to us grassroots guys who don't race, that means DE, it is also said that TBD is best for autocross. My Z uses a real honest to goodness Datsun Competition Limited Slip Unit, in fact the suspension and exhaust on my car looks like a old Datsun Competition poster child. I like my 914's TBD much better. You will like it too Steve.

A later post-race shot of PLN...

Oh gosh you're right! I posted it with my iPad and now on my desktop can see that it isn't a Brit car...

Evil stare...

I don't see it on the site John... How much?

Out of focus and no actual Datsun racers in the picture but pretty cool none-the-less. Anyone recognize the track?

An Electromotive chase!!

I remember those days... I had the car and I might have been able to afford the trailer, I just had no way of storing the trailer. Innovate!

When is TBD, but where is Original Customs, a restoration shop off Sonoma square a few blocks. Leon knows where it is as he was there for the carb clinic I organized with Keith Franck a couple years back. I'll work with Mark today to come up with a date...

I hope we will have an EFI expert, but we have the manual and there is a procedure outlined for testing it... Come on west coasters!

My Turbo flex plate is a welded unit. Sorry, I forgot to get back to you. I believe you sent me a PM some time back. It is from a ZXT and has a little bit of tooth rash in one spot where someone engaged the starter with the engine running.

We will basically be getting it running and finishing the details up. He will be feeding us Tri-tip, burgers, brats, and the fixings along with a good keg of Blue Moon to keep whistles wet. Basically, a Z car get together at one of the best Nor-Cal Restoration shops!

It would work, problem is they eat enough so just fixing the lock would be WAY cheaper! 8-)

My friend has a long-term project car in his shop that he did rust repair on and painted a very red color. Now, the project is essentially done, but it will not start. I would like to do Mark a favor for all of the favors he has done me. So, I want to have a BBQ at his shop and gather all of you Z car experts, especially the EFI guys. It is a 280Z with LJet... He has the factory service manual... Before the critics start in, this project was a favor, he does mostly rust repair and modifications. Besides, my 240Z, he has not really even seen a Z except when I had the Carb Clinic at his shop with Keith Franck...

Looks like a fun ride!

The bellows has a crack in one of the folds. Or, there is a disconnected vacuum line...