conedodger

Now that's a nice a$$...

Just Paul...

Turning in to a pretty good discussion... Some background. I started with a F54 turbo motor out of an 82. The car was an automatic so I am certain that it had never been over-revved. When I got it apart, I discover that there is no ridge in the bore and it still has great crosshatching. Probably didn't need a rebuild. I sold off all of the turbo goodies to someone in Puerto Rico on Ebay but still have the head, the block, pistons, rods, and crank. The plan for the bottom end is to sell the pistons to someone who wants to do a turbo build, as I said, everything is in really good shape so they should just need a clean up and new rings. I purchased new ITM pistons in STD size. I am told that these are the pistons the ITS guys are using. I also have ARP rod, main, and cylinder head bolts/studs. Now, if I were building a motor for one of my Porsches, I would have the rotating mass cryo-treated and bearings and piston tops coated. Not sure what Datsun builders do. The last L6 I built turned out really well without it with just balancing, lightened flywheel and a MSA 'Autocross' cam. Most of my Porsche builds land just south of 9.5:1 and run well on unleaded 91 octane pump gas. As long as I brought up the flywheel, I kept the turbo flywheel and will be having it lightened. I'm really only struggling with what to do with the top end. The E31 on the car came from the original owner (I am the second owner) with the E31 and lots of documentation for a build done in 1999. The head documentation is from BC Geralomy. It's hard to tell what was done but when I lived in Minnesota and was in to Datsuns, BC Geralomy was the go-to for cylinder heads. I am leaning toward the P90. Also struggling with induction. My good friend and professional Porsche engine builder suggests microsquirt and I would be ok with that but where we don't agree is that he wants me to get a Datsun EFI intake and go with a single TB and MAF. I would lean toward triple twin throat TB even knowing they would be more difficult to tune. If I didn't go with EFI, I would keep the triple Webers that are on it now or sell them and replace them with new 45DCOE 152's. I have some studying to do obviously. Thanks for the links and thoughts. Jon, as always, I respect your knowledge and it will weigh heavily on my decisions...

Thanks Jon, So, if I use the P90 head on this engine build, I will have somewhere in the range of 8.5:1 which I imagine is ok. If I use the my E31, I will be somewhere in the 10:1 range which without a pretty big cam is going to be too much for pump gas.

A little Camel GT Promotional poster action...

Anyone use these? Experience? Problems?

Static compression for an f54 with p90 is about the same with flat-tops. You could use the 1mm gasket but that will only raise it fractionally. Too much cam and you lower it a bit more. I'm at the other end of this problem. I'd like to use a ported and polished, big valve e31 on the f54 flat-top. I'm in the 10:1 range. Not sure what to do...

Steven and Mitchell, Porterfield does make our rear shoes in the R4S combo. I got mine through Eric. He is a Porterfield dealer. I don't think he advertises Datsun stuff on his site but call him, he'll give you a gooood deal! I'm going to talk to him about doing a group buy on calipers... He might require 10 or 20 sets for a discount but I'll ask for you guys...

Cool! If it needs any restoration, you know your way to Mark's shop. I think he has had his nose into every nook and cranny of the Porsche cars earlier than 1990. When you call Eric to have your brakes done, tell him Rob says you're a midget with really tiny hands that make it easy for you to get at all the little parts in the Porsche braking system. Rob also says collect teletubbies. Oh, and tell him I said his real name is Erc... We're good friends if you can't tell...

Steven, The cool thing is they seem to stay just that nice. I put mine on two years ago when I coaxed him into doing Datsun brakes, they still look just like that after a few track day romps. Prior to that, he had only done Porsche, Ferrari and other exotics. He does prefer Porterfield R4S pads for street cars driven in a 'sporting' manner so it is a possibility... They are a little more but not as much as some of the more race type pads.

Amelia Island I think... My friend goes every year.

On the trailer...

I have a Sony radio that has a pop-out front. The iPod lives inside. In fact, I never take it out except to update it.

There's a Z in the middle of that grid...

The narrow band systems are a pretty light show. When I say things happen fast, consider this. Our Z cars idle slightly rich. This is going to show an out of range color on any of the narrow band gauges. If things are tuned correctly, they should go rich when you tip in to accelerate. This is going to show an out of range color. You should be running on the rich side at WOT. This again, is going to show an out of range color on the gauge. Just not very useful to me. I have wideband in both the Z and my 914. I can tune for idle, cruise, and WOT with pretty good accuracy. Add to that that I am using Keith Franck developed jetting on my triple Webers and I am getting accuracy that was unheard of back in the 1970's. I just think those narrow band gauges with the color changes are amusing but not terribly useful. As for cost, I'm sorry. I don't really remember. I take my car down to Original Customs in Sonoma, CA and just give Mark the owner a list of things I want to accomplish. When I come back, he gives me a bill that I usually throw away to keep that information from my wife... 8O Whatever it cost was buried in the larger bill.

I'm not really impressed with the narrow band color change gauges. Things happen pretty fast in the A:F ratio world. I used a wideband gauge and installed it as you see below... It works like a charm and I have tuned it so that I am at a good performance A:F ratio of 13.5:1 for the most part.

Just FYI guys, Keith is doing some R&D. It looked at one point as if he would completely make the previous "Obert" tube obsolete but now it appears he may just be doing a redesign of a portion of it. At any rate, it will be a while before we do a clinic as there might be a change that you would not get to take advantage of.

If they are real Libra's, about $150+ each...

You finally stop when you realize you've owned for a decade and only driven it less than 100 miles...

This one looks quick but it seems to have an identity crisis. It's both a FairladyZ and a 240Z...

OMG! Mitchell what have you done! Well, enjoy it then... 8)

Absolutely not true... I will give you that the braking system was the most underdesigned system on the early cars but any problems with it manifested in fade at the front.

Reminds me of the "Top 100 Hospitals in America" claim that goes around every year. They pay for it. BS!!!

Herman, I've got some wheels that are period correct and would look fantastic on your car. Well, they don't actually belong to me but I have them. They belong to a guy you should meet who lives in Rocklin...

It's important to make a distinction between original and dealer installed. Those are not original wheels but when the cars were new, it was common for the dealer to increase their margin of profit by installing a spectrum of 'dealer installed options.' They'd spray on undercoating and charge $150 and make an extra $75, they'd install A/C and pocket another $100. These wheels were commonly put on by the dealer for that reason. So, while they might not be factory original, they were at least dealer original.