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Yeah, I guess you could say that I was converted. I was surprised to see that what was, I believe, my second post on this site dug up. My original intent after I got the car running after sitting for 1 1/2 years was to sell it just to be rid of it. But after connecting with this site, I had a change of mind and really enjoy my car. Does that sound like a Born Again Z er testamonial or what? Just recently changed out my exhaust system for a 2 1/4 inch pipe with a Dynamax Super Turbo muffler and no resonator. Pretty loud but after I finnish having fun with it, I will quiet it down some with a resonator.

This exchange illustrates the real value of this site. Lots of good advice. Thanks.

I am in the same position as Denny. The next big step I am concidering is painting. However it will not be simple. I notice some rust stain comming through the faded and many times polished paint and there is rust in the valances and elsewhere. Does this tell me that the paint must be stripped in order to get all of the rust? It would seem that there are other spots of rust that may be unseen. I would hate to spend the $ only to have rust show up again.

Enrique Great idea. I would like to meet up with some local Z nuts. Stevenson is up the Columbia just about 3 miles east of the Bridge of the Gods. You say help--do you mean that there is room up there for 4 hands to get that clock out? I will be in Vancouver at HazelDell Muffler at 9:00 next Tuesday (10th). If you are able, stop by. Otherwise, I am quite busy until after the New Year. However, I will email you at the address in your Profile if/when any time turns up. Paul Hunt

I guess that there is no easy way. Unless my 65 year old arthritic fingers sprout two more joints I may just buy one of those stick-on clocks for a buck. Actually, I will give it a try. I will be renewing my blood brother-ship with my car. Thanks.

My clock looses about a week every day. What is the best way to get a clock out-I want to try the oil thing.

I will be replacing my stock exhaust system on a '72 L24 from the y-pipe back with 2 1/4 inch pipe omitting the resonator. I have looked at past posts regarding new exhaust systems and this sounds like a good way to go. My question has to do with what muffler to buy. I think a turbo muffler is what I want. My choices are a Walker super turbo or a standard turbo. My goal is a nice growl but not obnoxiously loud. Is there a significant difference between these two mufflers other than the Walker's stainless steel interior and warrentee?

Due to rust I need to replace my exhaust system. I do not need anything really much different from stock. Might only replace from the split back. Possibly a deeper sound but not noisy. Do I need to replace both the resonater and muffler? Is there a shop in the Portland, OR area that anyone recommends that could do a good job and give me some advice? Stock 1972 car.

Has anyone used a rust converter available from auto parts stores? Seems that it would work on small areas. Danger here is you might be hiding rust and do more damage than good, especially when it is painted over.

You are absolutely right on. My family cars are a Taurus and a Camry, boring. So I have to throw a switch to a different frame of mind when I get into my Z, and, yes I do have a smile on my face after I have taken it for a hard drive.

When I was looking for my one and only back in 1991, I came across a '72 with 4,500 miles on it that the owner wanted $14.000 for. It was a beautiful orange car with white interior, original tires, etc. I could not afford it but looked at it closely, keeping my drool under control of course, just to see what an original looked like. I continued my search and came up with a nice yellow car with 86,000 miles on with very lttle rust. Cost me $3,000. I can't say that I have put in $11,000 into my car but several thousand at least. And I still have a mediocre car that is still a project. What do they say about hindsight-- it is 20/20. I should have jumped on that $14,000 car. But then I would not have know the joys of puttering on a Z. So the point here is that your advice of buying the best car you can afford and have a car that you can immediately drive, is the good advice. But, would I have been comfortable driving that $14,000 car? Is there a resurgence in interest in early Z's? When I was shopping everyone told me that I needed to buy their car because the Z was destined to become a rare classic. What they did not mention was that would apply only to low mileage, rust free original cars with low numbers. My impression was that interest in the Z sort of languished for several years but, am I correct, that there is more interest in them now?

Saw a really gorgeous Orange Z on 181st near Halsey about 12:30 on the 7th. Belong to anyone here?

I like the format of the site. This option may be available but I could not find it. So---how about an option to get printer friendly versions of pages-without the sidebar, etc. I was unable to get a good print of the Cat Transportation Unit. That was extremely funny, and I am a cat lover.

I think it was my second post on this site when I asked for a good SU doc in the Portland area. You recommended him.

It was the chokes. The cable was very dry and chokes themselves were stuck. I took it to MB Anderson and he got it running purrrrrrfectly. Starts now with no problem.

That is sooooo funny I about fell off my chair. Could also be the annual meeting of Yugo drivers (I think that is what most of them are).

Is the ZTherapy video set up so that it shows step by step the process for rebuilding and tuning? In other words, can I have a video player sitting on my bench and a remote control in one hand and step my way through the rebuild and tune?

Looks like great stuff. However, if I want the wet look, I need only to park outside in the rain. We get plenty of it- usually 90 inches/yr. But parking in the rain is not really good for the finnish I know.

Hello--I have been having cold start problems. This is a relatively new problem. 1972 with stock SU's. When it did start, it was running very rough like on 4 or 5 cyls. When it was starting it would turn over fine but it would sort of sputter in starting. Sort of a kachung, kachung, kachung, sputter, die, several times until it started and then it would barely turn over. When it did catch it would run very rough. Got it to a shop and they found that the front choke was stuck and the front three plugs were badly fouled. Unstuck the choke and replaced plugs with 6 new NGK's. Tweeked the carbs and got on the road and the car ran sweet. The morning after it started all over again, however when it finally did get started, it ran smoothly. Checked the plugs and they all were a uniform dark copper color. Any ideal what is causing this?

Well the gas tank ordeal is over at last. Due to cluminess, I had to buy a new sending unit and also got an o ring and retaining ring as well from Motor Sport. Tried two times to get a seal while the tank was mounted with no success so dropped the tank. Even then it took two tries to get a seal. Tested the seal with gas in the tank-my idea of using water was not a good one! I have been fooling around with this tank for so long I still do not believe it is sealed and I still have to check for leaks around the seal. Man, I would really hate to get rear ended - great balls of fire.

Check out this nice '72 on eBay. Excellent car for someone to start with.

Beautiful car. I am partial to original looking yellow Z's myself. Nice job. Is it original thoughout? Is it an original paint number? Mine is yellow 112 but needs repainting. General question-is it possible to get the original paint any more.

Another precaution, and I will not say that it happened to me. When you hook the wires to the posts on the sending unit, do not force them, the posts may pop out of the sending unit. I don't think they can be put back in and the little wire inside is broken anyway. If this happens and you get a new sending unit, I would be very careful. Might be wise to pare some of the rubber off to expose the clip so you can see what you are doing. Then put a dab of silicone sealer on the connection. The connectors inside the rubber housing may be brittle with age also. I will follow my own advice with my new sending unit. (Oops, did I switch from third person to first person?). I did finally get a good seal but not with an O ring, it still leaked. I put some of that sealer from the tube on then cut a gasket from some good gasket material. Installed it and it held, but then......I did get past the swearing stage however. There is a possibility that when the tank is filled up to the sender there will still be a leak which means that gas must be drained again, the sender reinstalled, and refilled to retest. This is hazardous to say the least. Is there another way to test? Would draining the tank and refilling with water work? This assumes that all of the water can be drained. Is this a bad idea? I am getting very intimate with this gas tank! Is there a forum for DUMB stories here

No need to worry about insulting my intelligence. I recognize my lack of knowledge on car repair matters that I am not afraid to ask questions. The two times I have had the sending unit out I have not seen an O ring. My repair manual does not show one in the diagram nor does it talk about one. Is this a special O ring for this tank or will any of the correct diameter and thickness work?

Got my refinished gas tank mounted a while ago and just recently filled it up, but to find gas leaking. The leak is at the seal for the unit gauge. I pulled the unit and remounted using a gas resistant sealent after cleaning it very well. Actually I did this about four times with no success. I then tried with no sealent and it continued to leak. About 6 years ago I pulled the tank and remounted it with no problem (leaks). The only thing different is that part of the refinishing job was a primer coat. The primer, at least now, is comming off because of the gas and being scraped. Could this prevent a good seal? The primer was intact the first time is tried this time but it got worse every time I tried to mount the gage. I did not do any sanding or scraping as I did not want to make it worse. i did not try a gasket because I was not sure that the lock would fit. Is there a solution to this problem. Please do not tell me I have to remove the gas tank!! Well, I will if necessary.