JonnyRock

Forgot to mention it's only 2 hours (exactly) from Portland or Olympia!

Hey guys, Well it's time again for the annual Rod Run to the End of the World! It's September 11 &12 and is consistently one of the largest gatherings of hot-rods in North America. It takes place in Long Beach, WA. It consistently attracts 1000+ registered vehicles plus thousands more spectators and unregistered. However, they changed the rules and registration is only open to 1973 and older. Because of this and the economy, attendance fell last year but it's fun none-the-less! As with any large gathering like this, there are people who try to ruin it for everyone else. Lots of mud-covered lifted pick-ups and late model corvettes/mercedes/etc acting like jerk-offs (this is a generalization). But it's a beautiful location and a great chance to see some gorgeous sheet metal. Pre-registration is still possible, but the reply deadline has passed so you might not get confirmation. Here's the registration form. Even if you don't register, I encourage you to bring your Z there'll be plenty of opportunity to show it of cruising the peninsula. If you can't bring the Z, it's still lot of fun to attend. It's put on by the local car club the Beach Barons. Click for more info. Hope to see you all there!

Had to rebuild my driver's side rear wheel cylinder and I managed to strip the hex-fitting on the hard line where it meets the cylinder. Won't be doing that again, I subsequently picked up a set of flare nut wrenches and a mini-blow torch! This line is kinda crescent shaped and I would like to replace it with an identical line. Does anyone have one I could buy, or know where I can get one? This is the early style, of a '70. Thanks guys.

I can personally recommend the Gold Technalon cover sold @ MSA. Here it is in the Product Reviews section of this forum: http://www.classiczcars.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=16&cat=11

Did you check the restored list? Or the separated ones? Because the restored is correct for my info.

Hey guys, long time no-post. :stupid: Well this weekend I'm finally tackling a project I've been meaning to do for a year or so. The dreaded battery tray! I've attached pictures and would like advice about how to tackle it. I rad the threads about rust treatment and I have a whole kit of POR-15 products: marine clean, metal ready, POR-15 and am prepared to go that route if you think that'd be best. I've never used the stuff before but it definitely seems doable and I know many of you sing the praises of POR-15. What I'd like to know is if someone thinks I should go about this differently. Does it necessitate a professional? Is POR-15 not ideal for this? Is there a different product I should use? Do I need to cut the cancer out? Thanks guys!

It seems to be a 'better safe than sorry' kind of thing. Regardless, nice execution!

All gas pumps are mandated to include the automatic shut-off by the EPA.

Like "Kleenex" to facial tissue, "SU" is now a general term applied to any Skinner's Union type carburetor. However, Hitachi actually licensed the design from Skinner's Union so our carbs can correctly be called SU's.

CV's have all but supplanted U-Joints for most half-shaft applications. Here's an image showing the joint itself after the dust boot has been removed. CV Joint

look in the classifieds section, someone just sold a set.

Arne is your best bet. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.

<b>UPDATE: </b>Hey guys, so I've had some car trouble recently, in addition to being swamped with school and the Automotive X-Prize competition. Just got back from 2 weeks in Brooklyn, MI only to have a week of mid-terms I've gotta replace the clutch slave and rebalance the carbs because something is out of whack now. She starts REAL rich and doesn't want to run without choke. So i'll sort that out. <b>Ztherapy makes a great product, just be sure to use their included return label!</b> I didn't and my core ended up in post office limbo for 2 weeks. If you have any questions about your order, etc, don't hesitate to ask Bruce or Pam as they are very helpful. Before: After: I'll update again with pics/video/more info when I get things straightened out.

The style is Enkie 40 / Enkie Apache. Mine have the Enkie stamp on the outside face. I just picked up some Bridgestone R960AS Pole Position tires a few months back, after a lot of searching they were the best option for 14" rims. Up until then I had been rolling on 20 year old rubber for about 2 years. Didn't have any problems until I ran over a nail. the rubber was pretty severely cracked between the treads on every tire so I decided to spring for some new shoes.

Are you keeping those wheels? If not, please let me know. Those are identical to mine.

Same thing happened to me about 1.5 weeks ago. Got my new slave the other day and will install first week of May when I get back from a competition.

That's awesome Mike!

Technically you are right, as SU stands for the brand "Skinner's Union" however, like Kleenex, I'd argue SU's now refer to the type of carb rather than the brand. I just wanted to be clear that the flat-tops are essentially the same style carb as the round tops. They're both Skinner's Union type Hitachi's.

You were right, a Franken Engine is an engine assembled of parts from different engine types/makes. Al Franken is a comedian-turned-politician here in the states. One of our more controversial political figures.

You should check with Mike McGinnis at Banzai Motorworks, they regularly have FSM's for sale. zspert@olg.com http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

I just dropped my tank and had it boiled/sealed and replaced all of those lines with generic stuff from the hardware store. It's a bit of a pain in the arse to replace them all but definitely doable. I wouldn't recommend removing the vent lines or the vent tank ('big thing' inside the hatch) because the car has a sealed gas cap and the tank needs to vent. There was recently a post on here or another forum (I'm having trouble finding it) where a member removed all their vent lines and the tank ended up collapsing on itself do to internal pressure. Even though our tanks are small, they have a large surface area and it wouldn't take much for that to happen. If anyone else can recall where that post is, I'm sure it would be helpful info.

About to board the ferry home, will update tonight... btw, she sounds great now!

Just found an awesome article on the site 'Ate Up With Motor'. If you guys have never heard of this site you should really check it out. It's a wealth of information on cars, car makers, and automotive icons. I've only read a few articles so far, but each one has had me glued to the screen. They're fairly long, but particularly well written. Z Trip: The Original Datsun Z-Car I'm only about halfway through this at the moment, but so far everything I've read lines up with what I've heard here and on zhome, etc. Enjoy!

Like zbane said, the whole purpose of your radiator is to lower the coolant temperature (to radiate heat away from the coolant) by exchanging it with the air. It's totally normal for there to be a temperature difference.

Thanks Bruce, ended up grabbing a razor instead.