240dkw

Jim: As well, if you need anything call me. Blue: I will post some photos of my progress in another thread so not to highjack this one. Dan

Jim. as well, I am waiting for pics, your avitar does not count. I might have to come down and check it out in person. Dan

I am sure it is for a 72 or earlier, the original printing is 1972 and the book I have is the first reprint in 1973. The wiring diagram is titled HLS30 auto tranmission. It covers two pages so to get a good scan of the whole thing I will have to remove it from the book.

On every wiring diagram I have the matix box headings are so blurry that I can not read them. I came across a copy thay was printed in 1973 and here is a scan of the section in question. Comb switch matrix.pdf

Zed findings is based in Ontario, so you should order the floor pans from them, any of the re-sellers will be US based and you will have a duty charge to ship a Canadian product to you from the US.

I did it myself with the Caswell kit

I finally got a chance to plate the arm. Here is a photo of the modified arm(right) next to a stock one (left).

This might be it, http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AccelLinkage.htm Here is a photo of what I tried. I cut the main tube in half and the welded it back together at the new angle.

Mark: If Jim does not have what you need, I might. Dan

This might help http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?32556-Heater-cables-73&highlight=heater+cables

Dave as well I am glad you and Mike were able to work it out and have decided to stick around Dan

Sorry, no I am not tracking hours. I get side tracked a way to easy to ever mark down the time spent on the car. I will be welding and stop for a break, pick up a part and start cleaning it up for later and not get back to welding for a couple of hours. Very ADD of me but it keeps me enjoying the project.

The early tube on mine only uses the PCV port and the Brake port.

E-teck is a member here that is from Saskatoon Welcome as well!

So it does exhaust ozone? I might use one in a car that I can close the doors on and the air out before I sat inside, but I sure would not use one where I live. Very nasty stuff Due to the strongly oxidizing properties of ozone, ozone is a primary irritant, affecting especially the eyes and respiratory systems and can be hazardous at even low concentrations. The Canadian Center for Occupation Safety and Health reports that: "Even very low concentrations of ozone can be harmful to the upper respiratory tract and the lungs. The severity of injury depends on both by the concentration of ozone and the duration of exposure. Severe and permanent lung injury or death could result from even a very short-term exposure to relatively low concentrations." [41] To protect workers potentially exposed to ozone, U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration has established a permissible exposure limit (PEL) of 0.1 μmol/mol (29 CFR 1910.1000 table Z-1), calculated as an 8 hour time weighted average. Higher concentrations are especially hazardous and NIOSH has established an Immediately Dangerous to Life and Health Limit (IDLH) of 5 μmol/mol.[42] Work environments where ozone is used or where it is likely to be produced should have adequate ventilation and it is prudent to have a monitor for ozone that will alarm if the concentration exceeds the OSHA PEL. Continuous monitors for ozone are available from several suppliers.

So how do these ozone generators work? I have equipment at work that has a ozone generator in it, and the steps I have to go through to ensure the there is no ozone present before I open it to do any work is quite detailed. It is listed as a very toxic oxidizer Fastwoman: that is good to know that the volcanic rock does not work well, I have never tried it myself

Zedyone: If you are going to start looking for a voltage leak do not forget to replace the two condensers on the ignition system. The one for the points and the noise suppression one on the coil if you have not done so. These can test good on the bench but leak or "spill over" at a higher voltage. This was the problem Arne had with his ignition and fixed it by removing the one at the coil. Dan

Blue: You could try this, I have heard that it works well for basement odors. http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?p=10175&cat=2,42194,40727&ap=3 Dan

JC: I miss read your post, I am only using the POR15 on the insides of everything. On the finished side it is the normal cleaning and leveling coat of bodyfiller with fiberglass strands followed by etching primer and final coat of filler if needed. Dan

Zealous: I am treating everything with POR15 that I can get at after welding, I used a weldable primer on all of the peices that I can not get at after and will spray some type of coating inside the rails once I am done. Z Greek & esmit 208: Somewhere on this site I read that using a section on a old fender to replace the metal under the battery tray works well, This is what I did and the curve of the fender matches quite well.

Well, the cutting and patching has finally come to an end. I am now able to move on to the body work. I was able to weld the battery tray back in after replacing a large section of metal under it as well as a section of the firewall. Here are a few update photos.

I know this is a old thread, but I thought it best to post a this new commercial here to keep it in one spot. Nissan Canada made another one with a nod to the older Z's Enjoy http://youtu.be/_mTaLGTpKNY

This site seems to say that you can install the cog in any housing and the housing is dependent on the year of the tranny not the number of teeth. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

I just bought a Millermatic 140 and I agree Mig 110v with a shield gas and I like this wire. http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/filler_metals_catalog/filler_metals_product_detail/q/display_id.id4367f2a958f8c3.05458256/category_id.504

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?36809-73-Tach-Differences-3-or-4-wire&highlight=73+tach