d240zx2

Nice story. It'll be nice for you and Bill to meet and compare notes...

Vibration dampers can fail internally and not be visible externally. Ask how I know....

I think most ball bearings and roller bearings are made from high-speed steel, or modifications thereon. My years of dealing with metals teaches me that bearing materials are within 2 +/- points of Rockwell C 63 hardness. They've gotta be tough enough to handle the shocks and hard enough to handle the friction and loads.

Note #5. Noisy? No, sir. Much quieter than the tires (Yokos) I had before.

I run Yoko S.drives, 205-50R/16. Pretty sticky tires. A bit heavier on steering 'cause they're wider. Aggressive tread design. I've only tracked them once, at Nashville last year, and they performed quite well.

I have had success in using a high-strength alloy electrode in welding out broken studs and bolts. The probable reason why your friend's wire welder wasn't successful is that he was likely using a low-tensile wire, while the bolts are considerably stronger, say Grade 5 or better. Mild steel wires/electrodes aren't generally successful when welding higher grade steels. Use the smallest diameter electrode you can find, 3/32" at the largest, E 312 or E 309(L). It sounds like you have the rest of the procedure down pat. John's suggestion above is also a good one.

I went plowing off turn 4, too. Didn't brake to set-up the car before the turn and bluffed it right into the weeds. Glad you and the car were unharmed!

Mine are graphite. Pick whichever looks better to you with your paint color.

Do you have the FSM yet?

Your VIN will tell you pretty much the sequence of manufacture, nothing else. 'Bout like your older Mopars do.

Unless something untoward happens, I'll be singing the praises of Pertronix for quite a while. The installation of that simple system literally woke-up my Z. Way-easier starting, revs to 7K without a hitch. I'm one VERY satisfied customer!

According to my wife, one can never be too rich.... But the above advice is good.

Good to have you back, KDMatt. In looking at the photo, it appears there's a weld bead surrounding the steering shaft. Is that the case?

Escanlon said it best.

Send some RAIN to Houston. We're 10 inches below normal. Most, if not all, of Texas is in a 4 year drought. We're parched. Even the Love Bugs are dying of thirst.

You've got either plugged fuel lines/filters or a bad set of pumps. Probably both. Tank contamination is also quite likely. Drop the tank, inspect and clean. Blow the lines w/compressed air. Replace the electric pump. If that doesn't work, punt.

Fire 'em. Take the car elsewhere. I'm gettin' too damned old to put up with delays like that. But maybe you're young...

During the SCCA SW Division Solo II run-offs in 1972, final run of the day, I lost my belt. I don't know when during the run this happened. I crossed the finish line with the temp gauge off the scale @ 6000 rpm. Got a new belt, put it on, and drove it the 1300 miles from Penwell, Texas to Montgomery, Alabama with zero problems. Since then, I've had the head off and skimmed... no significant deviation from plane flat. Those L24 engines are tough rascals.

Well, now. Once you get everything together, you'll be "Driving Miss Daisy," won't you??

Two purposes: It reminds you when your hand brake is engaged. It tells you when your brake fluid is gone bye-bye.

ATF is auto tranny fluid. It has properties that will help free any stuck rings and will help lube the cylinder walls. It's a time-tested and proven accessory to waking long-still engines.

V6 and I6 require different BHs. Take the easy and cheapest route and get the ZX tranny. A lot fewer headaches.

I haven't done the Honda upgrade yet, but the old, original blower puts air out the eyeball vents at about the same rate as the center vent stack. It's probably those "loose connections" you mentioned.

More data, please.

No issues w/rubbing. I have the same wheel/tire size, car has been lowered 1.5 inches.