AZ-240z

Sorry 'bout that. It is not working for me know, either. Maybe if Carl Beck sees this, he can chime in with the correct address.

Do you have the idler pulley? The one I am looking for was mounted just in front of the fuel pump because the A/C compressor is mounted just infront of and below the carb air filter housing. If you have it, want to sell it, you might PM me a picture if it's not too much trouble. Thanks. Dan

It sounds like you may be looking at pictures of a much later 240z, Bob. I am fairly certain that the flat washers were 18mm OD, much larger than the lock washers, which does hit that lip on my car and gets into the paint. I know that at least two of mine originally had one side filed down so as not to hit this lip but can not recall if all six had been flatten on one edge. Aren't the hood hinge bolts a larger bolt than the fender bolts? I am certain mine are larger, but will have to check when I return to Phoenix this week. This is interesting, though, as it seems to be raising more questions than expected. Bob, is the carpet set that you had made the loop pile or cutt pile carpet? I noticed that you removed the AC from your car, and I am thinking of doing the same to make life simpler. I do drive the car occasionally just to keep everything maintained or for club activities. Dan

Bob, good to hear from you. I could have sworn that those hex head bolts had the phillips cross. Did you happen to notice if the fender washers were cut off or flattened on one side so as to not hit that flared lip on the fender flange? And, didn't all of these bolts also have lock washers installed? Sometimes these lock washers were removed, possibly by dealers I've been told, if there was a clearance issue with the edge of the hood. Any comments on any of these items would be most welcome. Thanks also to Zs-ondabrain for his comments which confirms what seems to be a unanimous answer to my questions. Dan Original Owner/hls30-20419

Check out http://zhome.com/Concourz/. Under engines, there is a short pictoral explanation of the early oil pan, but no definitive information as to vin#s or dates of manufacture. I have been curious, too, as I have a 1/71 series 1, but, from what I have been able to discover, these early pans only came on very early, possibly only on 1969, cars. There was a structural flaw on these, and required dealers to weld a patch panel on to strength an area where vibration cracks were occuring near the drain plug. Dan

I need a little help in remembering what was correct with the fender to inner hood securing bolts and washers, as my fenders have been off and on in various stages of restoration by different people. My car is a very late series 1 240z manuf. in 1/71. There are 5 bolts and washers on each fender, 3 to secure the inner fender, and 2 to secure the headlight housing to the inner fender. My questions are: 1. Are all, or part, of these 5 bolts phillips hex head bolts, or just hex head bolts? 2. The fender washers are, I think, 18mm OD washers. Do some, or all, of these washers have a cut off edge so as to clear the flared lip of the inner fender flange? If anyone with a pretty unmolested series 1 car would like to take a look at their car, It would be greatly appreciated. Dan

Edit: Actually, according to the zhome information, the 8/70 date I mentioned applied to a change of tire model, not wheel color. The tires changed from Bridgestone Superspeed - 20 to Bridgestone HD - 150 tires. My point was that the shade of black also changed in that general time reference from semi gloss to flat. Sorry about the inaccuracy in my post.

Chris, Wasn't there some pictures of your wheel and Bob Speight's wheel on the zhome concourz site. Did the color not change from semi gloss black to flat black on 8/70? I have a full set of flat black wheels all date stamped 11/70 which are flat black outer rim and gray inner rim. It really only matters, I would imagine, if you are interested in exact concourz original appearance. Just an observation Dan

[quote name=Zulaytr;243204) So for this past years convention I took the manifold off and removed all the paint and rust and coated it using the Eastwood dressing (see picture). However' date=' if you buy a new exhaust system from Nissan the pipes and muffler is now powder coated black. Hi Bob, Your manifold looks incredible. This, as well as getting a new loop pile carpet set, are next on my to-do list. Is the manifold dressing you used the Eastwood dressing shown in their online catalogue, referenced by Kenz240z above, on page 40, item #11171? I'll probably have Les do the carpets when I can find a correct pattern for the pieces that go behind the seats and under the black plastic tool and jack bins, but this is for another thread started Arne today. I've been meaning to PM you about your win at the convention, and hope to do that shortly. Dan

Carl, If you see the car, check out the oil pan. It appears to be one of the earliest found on '69 & '70 cars, not one a series 11 car. Thanks. Dan

I agree with Carl. It appears that a shiny paint job was applied to mask many faults that should have been addressed first. I would say that the front and rear valence panel have seen quite a bit of damage and a lot of doors and panels don't fit very well, just as starters. The one gem that I take away from this is seeing the very earliest of oil pans on a 10,xxx vin car. I always wanted to know how far into the production they carried this pan which had structural design problems. It appears at least halfway through the series 1 cars.

Arne, Carl. Thanks for the responses. That confirms what I had thought, but had no evidence to back it up. My pursuit of perfection has also led me on a quest to find a pair of U shaped battery cable minder clips whose sole purpose is to hold the pos and neg cables together. I think they are black plastic covered (dipped) metal. Anybody have these on there car or know where I might pick up a couple? I probably should have started a new thread, but the discussion of restoration projects and parts seemed to compliment one another. Dan

Carl, I noticed in the eleventh picture in the sales ad you referenced, above, that the four machine screws that are used to attach the rear deck lid to the deck lid hinges are unpainted. I believe that this is correct, but anyone know for sure if they were unpainted or painted body color? Thanks for sharing this with us, Carl. This may seem trivial, but important possibly to the restorer. Dan

Thanks, E. Thats the confirmation I was looking for. I have used the hair dryer in the past and I think that will be my appoach. Sorry about the map light reference. Just had a Senior Moment, as I will need to do the same to an early map light surround, ie., the one without the glare shield. I guess the radio faceplate warped from radio generated heat and the tight screws as the plastic doesn't look powdery from UV exposure and is fairly flexible. Dan

Hello E, I have the AM radio and faceplate, but a little different problem. Thought you may have some ideas, or may have included this in the Nissan Sport article. My faceplate is all there, unbroken and uncracked, but it has a significant warpage due probably to heat from the map light and possibly overtightening of the corner mount machine screws. I am thinking of applying heat from a heat gun but am afraid of destroying this nice faceplate by either getting it too hot or possibly causing cracks if the material should shrink from the heat. Any thoughts or previous experiences with this would be greatly appreciated. Dan

Bob, Well, you've finally gone and done it. Now, what do you do? Your car was fantastic in 2004, and I can only imagine how you have tweeked it to pure perfection. Well done, Bob, now lets see some pictures, and I mean close up shots of all the goodies, including the carpet. It doesn't get any better than adding a "Gold Medallion" to the pedigree of ones car. Congratulations. Dan

Since this is kind of a brainstorming session, and not to discount the license plate frame idea, here is another thought on a similar idea to distinguish our club association. One of the classic things found on autos of historic importance are very nice metal cloisonne badges usually denoting the car's country of origin, or manufacture company logo, or, perhaps a "CLUB ASSOCIATION LOGO". These badges usually are made so as to be easily attached to some desired part of the car such as front grill, front or rear bumper, or even a license plate frame. My reasoning in part is that I don't think one could do justice to a proper club logo on the limited space of a license plate frame as noted in the reasons given by Arne, for one. A badge, on the other hand, could be created with our club logo and name made of a high quality painted metal casting which could be prominently displayed on our cars. Just an idea that popped into my head if anyone has any thoughts on this for further consideration. Dan

Arne, I Had an original BRE front spook on my 240z many years ago, bolted to the front valances with the included hardware. I never drove the car above highway speeds, and when the spoiler was eventually removed, there was considerable distortion of the valance panel metal at the mounting points. There are substantial air loads pulling on these panels which was somewhat unexpected on my part. I would consider reinforcing strip laid along the inside edge of the valance panels through which to mount the spoiler. This would obviously give added rigidity to the mounting panels on your car and reduce distortion. Just wanted to include my experience, for what its worth. Dan

Steve, Were there any more pages to that ARA manual? I would love to see, or get a copy of your manual if that would be possible. Dan

So, Dave, I am really stupid when it comes to electrics and reading wire diagrams, but it appears that in madkaw's diagram the power source for the compressor is the heater control switch and the toggle switch shown in his diagram could very well be my micro switch which is opened and closed by my vent control slide lever. Does this sound correct to you? I may be getting closer to my answers. Dan

My dealer installed York system by FrigiKing is also installed on the driver side above the smog pump. As a point of interest, the A/C compressor could be activated by the top heater control lever by being placed from "Vent" to "Off". This was accomplished by a micro switch being activated at the end of this cable under the passenger side when the vent door is closed. As long as the A/C thermostat control rotary switch was out of the off position, the A/C could be turned on and off by sliding the top vent control to "OFF" or "Vent". Since my car was restored, and this was never reconnected, I have been search for the dealer wiring diagram for this install so I can reconnect this micro switch correctly, again. If anyone has this diagram or knowledge as to how to correctly hook up this micro switch, It would be a big help to me and may assist Dave with his install. Thanks. Dan

John, Is this shroud the fiberglass shroud? The reason I ask is I installed one on my 240Z which has a plastic fan and I found a problem that might be wise to be aware of. I don't mean to be an alarmist, but I found out that at highway speeds the air load on the shroud is sufficient to caused it to flex enough to make contact with the plastic fan blades at the top of the shroud. When you complete your install, I would recommend that you check for any flex of the shroud and adequate clearance between the top inside of the shroud and the fan blades. I haven't heard of this problem from anyone else so it may have just been an anomaly with my install. I wouldn't feel right though if I didn't mention my experience with this. I am sure your install will work perfectly. Dan

Steve, Sorry for the misinformation above. After reading the entire auction, this person says he no longer has butterscotch. Dan

Hey Steve, I was looking through ebay today and came across someone who apparently is retailing new seatcovers he is making. Take a look at ebay item #110160688651. He says he has all of the colors. Dan