AZ-240z

I may be able to give a somewhat accurate answer. The very early 240Z had this oil pan which seemed to develope cracks due to vibration. The welded, or braised, area you are refering to is a factory authorized repair to reinforce the pan until a better one was developed. Others may have more specific information for further clarification. Dan

If you're askin', I would use lots of bubble wrap, large bubbles, please.

Thanks, that's good to know. I have pretty much gone though my car replacing bolts and fasteners with original OEM fasteners. having talked with Eiji about other things, he a terrific person to work with. Dan

I have a NOS dash in my car and was concerned that I needed to use the right product. After talking to the guys at Car Care Specialties refered to in another related thread by 26th-Z, I settled on the Lexol Vinylex and have been very please with the short term results. Time will tell, but my car spends most of its life, now, covered in the garage. Dan Guess I should mention that it has been about 6 years since I started using the Lexol Vinylex. It gives everything I put it on a very natural and new low gloss appearance, and doesn't seem to attract a lot of dust or sticky residue.

Thanks, Randy. The color is not exact, but very close to the seat slider rail color. It is difficult to see the difference unless the colors are viewed side by side, and then the new paint just appears a little less faded. Motorman7, it'l be fun watching the refresh of your extremely nice survivor. Hope you will have as much fun as I have had doing mine. Dan

Guy, Do the bolts in Aiji's kit have the same numbers cast into the face of the bolt heads? Depending on there use, the originals had either a 4, or 7, or 9 cast into the bolt heads. Many of the bolts with the correct part numbers I have ordered from Nissan are identical to the originals except for these numbers as rarely the numbers are there. And I grant you, this is only important to fanatics like me. Dan

I finally finished restoring my horns and thought I would add a few pictures of the results. I made a set of gaskets for each side of the diaphram as the old paper diaphram material was pretty much toast. Also having a tough time getting these horns to work properly using the adjustment screw on the back plate, probably because of these new diaphram gaskets. There is a proceedure for volume adjustment in the Electrics section of the FSM but I'm doing it by trial and error for now. I was tempted to paint the heads of the phillips screws, but this thread shows both painted and bare metal. Anyhoo, I'm glad they are done for now. Dan

The temp gages in the 240z are notoriously inaccurate. When I bought my car new in Arizona, the temp ran 3/4 scale in the summer. My owners manual, I have a series 1 car, says normal operation temp is from 170 - 220 F (3/4 scale). I used an infra-red thermometer to measure my coolant temp with the car at operating temp and, as I recall, the temp averages around 185-195F at the radiator, hoses, block, thermostat housing, etc. Joseph Demers did an article for an early Z-CAR issue about calibrating the temp gage using a charted resistance value. I used his method, and calibrated my gage by plugging in a small resistor between the temp sensor and the pickup wire. I am trying to find that article and will post it when found. The gage reading in my car in the Arizona summer heat now registers around 185 (mid gage) - 195F which correlates very well with the thermometer readings that I had gotten. All components of my car, after restoration, are new or rebuilt. Dan

Thanks, Mike. The color matches up pretty good with the seat rail color so I think you will be happy with that paint color code. I bought it at my local auto paint supplier. I would also like to create a stensil for the "H" & "L" on the mounting brackets, but my just pass on that because it would have to be perfect to look correct and original. Dan

My date codes are not going to be accurate to the manufacture of my car. Pierre Z did most of the restoration and he had a tendancy to swap parts out from other cars. He probably did this with the Vintage Restorations also. One horn is T10 and the other is U3. I will try to attach a couple of pictures of the olive drab I used. The color went on a little too glossy, so I used some super fine steel wool to knock down the gloss and then do a quick polish. I think the final result came out real close to the original. Tell me what you think. Dan Mike, I just noticed (not able to absorb too much at once as an old person) that #210's mounting brackets also appear to be painted olive along with the mounting bolts. Your right, not able to tell if the backs were painted or left metal colored. I think I may just paint the phillips screws, nuts, and mounting brackets olive also, and leave the back natural metal. My mounting bolts are new gold zinc which I will leave alone.

Mike B, Nice pictures of #32 horns. I found some olive drab paint to pretty closely match the color of the seat rails and have just painted the fronts of my horns. Boths sets of your horns have been a big help in determining the correct finish for mine. I plan on spraying the backs, mounts, and phillips screws and nuts with a clear satin finish, but I do have one question. In your fifth picture above, it appears that the phillips screw heads are also painted olive on #32's horns. I assumed that they were clear zinc colored like the backs of the horns. And in the next two pictures of #32's front covers, the area around the screw holes looks to be painted olive. If the screws were painted on the horn, wouldn't these screw hole opening have a clear metal ring around them as if blocked by the screw head? I know, way too anal, but curious minds need to know these things. Great job, Mike B. I'll post pics of mine when completed. Dan

Yeah, I finally figured out that it was "AL". Carl Jaeger is a good guy to deal with as I, too, have purchased from him. A bit pricy, but he has found me some very hard to find items. Dan

Hi Ron, I am going to do some speculation, which may fit what you have been seeing. There is a web site, www.new-datsun-parts.com which lists new dashes from 1970-78 for sale. More than likely what you saw, and what he offers on his web site is a 1972 dash up to 7/72, I believe, part no. 68100-E8800, which is a direct replacement for the earliest dash, #68100-E4600 according to the parts CD. Now, this site may or may not be the same individual who was selling the dash on ebay. Dan

Darrell 240Z, Yes, there was a rubber gasket which is called "Packing-Front Fender", part number 63811-E4101. From my attempts to locate these, which have come up empty, they are apparently No Longer Available. If you anyone has a couple of extra stashed away, I'll take two, thank you! Dan Almost forgot, I think you could just use a bit of rope calk to seal these pieces together, but, I too would be interested in other opinions.

Bob, This is information I gleaned from Wick Humble's Book "How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car", page 197. Previous to HLS30-21001, all Z-cars were shipped with an oil-pressure gauge that indicated up to 140 psi. Because the L24 was designed for less than 60 psi, Datsun had received many complaints of low oil pressure from owners, myself included. A gauge that showed a larger proportion of needle sweep for the normal pressure made sense, so a 90 psi gauge was substituted, beginning with late 240Zs. The lower-reading gauge required a different sender. A 6kg unit supplanted the previous 10kg one. These had to be compatible; a mismatch would give an incaccurate reading so they were only interchangeable as a pair. No change was specified for the water-temperature part of this combination gauge. Parts numbers are: New Part: Gauge: 90 psi 24830-E8300 or 24830-E8301 Sender switch: 6kg 25070-89900 or 25070-89900 Old Part: "Gauge: 140 psi 24830-E4400 Sender switch: 10kg 25070-89910 Datsun didn't intend to stock the early 10kg sender after dealer supplies ran out, so if you have to replace yours on an early 240Z, carefully check part numbers. You may need to change your gauge if the 25070-89910 sender switch isn't available. The later gauge is otherwise indentical with the original type. Hope this explanation helps. Dan

Best source I have found for decals and other nice repro parts is Banzai Motorworks. www.zzxdatsun.com Mike McGinnis is very knowledgeable concerning correct originality, and, according to him, your air cleaner housing should have two decals. Later series 1 cars with the air cleaner housing snorkel tube would have had four decals. He has most under-hood decal, all very nice. Very nice, original looking car BTW. Dan

Kats, I always enjoy your contributions to forum discussions. I am trying to put together a stock exhaust system just like yours, including the same downpipe and Y connector. Could you tell me what the finish is on your system? Is it powder coated, high temp paint, or just bare metal? Looks great! Dan

Arne, Take a look at Kats web sight, go to "Original Detail" and scroll down to a picture of the "cast junction" on his down pipe. It has always been my understanding that this style of downpipe is the early part number, while the down pipe with one pipe welded into another is the later redition. Dan

Filipe, if you have a source for these cloth covered breather hoses, I would be in for one. Dan

Just to substantiate what has been said, my car, a 1/71 series 1, did not have the radiator shroud or splash pan installed when I purchased it off the show room floor. I am a little confused by the tire thing. How many of the recent Gold Medallion winners in Stock Class had a set of Bridgestone Superspeed-20 original radial tires on there cars, and, if none, how many points were deducted from there total score for non-original tires? Dan

Ron, My car, hls30-20419 came with the retainers fastened to the floors. As Carl Beck mentioned in the thread "Loop Pile Carpet, Any Recent Purchases?" in post #51, the bulletin said that the carpet clips weren't used until June 13, 1972, but the retainer clips were installed in cars much earlier. Dan

I agree that there is nothing wrong with reproduction parts when there is no longer a NOS part available. How many would, after a nice restoration, keep the old tattered under -hood decals if they were even still there, or use new reproduction decals of very high quality to enhance all of your hard work? NOS decals? I don't think so! Didn't we have a discussion some time ago about resolving some of these questions of originality by adding an "Unrestored Original" catagory to the Stock Class at National Z Car Shows? There aren't many unmolested orignal 240z cars around anymore that could qualify for a #1 or #2 car. If you don't happen to own one of these, should you be penalized or disqualified or not allowed to compete in our shows? All of this would be totally counter-productive and have a large negative impact on our hobby in my opinion. Just my thoughts, Dan

I was trying to think of the name of this stuff, too, the other day. A body shop gave me a couple of feet of a black, very sticky, rope calk. It stays soft and sticky forever and is perfect mounting the plastic sheets under door panels. I also used it for backing up the pins when mounting emblems as it has very strong holding power. I'll let you know when I remember a specific name for this calk material. Dan

Thanks Will. I am still not totally convinced, but maybe Chris will see this for further varification. Are you still thinking of reproducing those little black plastic rounded washers that are one of the external mounting items for early antennas? Not the black rubber dome thing next to the quarter panel, but the thick black plastic washer under the chrome mounting nut. And, Mike, you and Will are in all probability correct but I just can't get that image of the more rounded knob out of my mind. Thanks for your help and clarification. Dan

Will, The picture attachment you show of the heater control slide knobs in your post #23 have me wondering. Is it possible that the part numbers shown are for the opposite knobs? I have always thought that the more rounded knobs were the earlier parts numbers., ie, 68847-E4600. My memory isn't that good but I am pretty sure that those more rounded (no hard corners) knobs were on my series 1 when new. Any opinions from anyone? Thanks. If I knew how, I would add the picture from your thread, Will. Dan