AZ-240z

Pictures of my car just after purchasing new on March 25, 1971.

Nice find, Jerry. How many mounting holes are in the scuff plates? The part number indicates there should be five in each. If so, those are REALLY early parts!

STeve, Do you have an illustration of where this handbrake dust boot is mounted? I couldn't find a part number or reference on my parts CD. On my last fun drive, I did notice a cool breeze of air coming from the handbrake boot, but couldn't determine the source. This probably going to be added to my shopping list. Dan

Steve, Is this the grommet that protects the sending unit wire harness where it passes throught the rear deck floor? If so, I'll add it to my llist. Dan

Mossy, I have a repro console from MSA from about 10 years ago. Could you tell me what you intend to use it in? Are you doing a concours resto or a nice driver restoration? This console looks very nice and is a legit repro in appearance. The issue I had was that the ashtray fuse box cover didn't allow a perfect fit of the ashtray without a little adjustment. Not a real big deal, but I was looking for perfection which I found in a nice used console. If you would be interested, PM me and we could talk about a very reasonable price. Dan

Thanks, Jim. You are perfectly correct. I was just being all inclusive for the single hatch support use. I think we are twins. Both original owners, and cars are within a month apart. Mine is hls30-20419 with a prod. date of 1/71. I guess that makes us both really old, too. Dan

Looking at my parts CD, it looks like 240z cars up to july/73 had single deck lid stays, or supports.

Really nice work! When my car was put back together, I noticed that a gap of about 4mm was, also, left between the rubber bumper block and crossmember. Pierre-Z in Hawthorn, CA did the work, and was one of the primary restoration contractors used for the factory restoration project. I mention this only because he may have been following, and held to, correct and required factory installation tolerances. I was wondering if one of the rubber donut hood bumpers would work in place of the rubber block. Just a thought for a possibly easy option in place of the original rubber block.

Wiring harness re-wrapping : MGB & GT Forum : MG Experience Forums : The MG Experience Isn't google great?

2 Rolls Factory Electrical Non Adheasive Wiring Harness Friction Tape M | eBay

I used plasti-dip to restore a couple of the retainer tabs found predominantly under the hood to secure the wiring harness. Two of these tab's spot welds had broken loose. I just stripped the original plastic coating, recoated with plasti-dip, painted with car color, and re-secured tabs using body panel repair grade epoxy instead of welding for a very easy repair. Looks perfect, lasts a looooooooooong time. Also, if you can find "loom tape" which was originally used on wiring harnesses and has no adhesive backing, in lieu of electrical tape, and,once you learn how to secure the loose ends when wraping with loom tape, it looks perfect and doesn't end up a dirt attracting, sticky harness. FWIW Dan

I just noticed this thread for the first time. I have a pair of "new-in-the-box" Koito bulbs marked 6024LH, as well. But, the important information is on the boxes. The part number on the boxes is "02260-231KO". Checking this part number on my trusty parts CD shows this number to be good up to 07/73 for our cars. Hope this helps. Dan

Steve, its hard to see the actual color match, but I'm sure it is very close. Looking forward to actually have the opportunity to purchase some of your very nice looking efforts. Dan

Brian, talking about Rebello, air dams, and stuff, if you haven't taken a look at this "Petrolicious" youtube video, have a look and enjoy. It is the first time I have seen Watanabe wheels as they really should look on a very nice built-up car. Dare to Be Different in a Datsun 240Z | Articles Dan

From another "Purists point of view", (I'm currently in recovery and attend "Purist Awareness" meetings twice a month;)), It looks perfect, the orange/red highlights are very evident. I second just putting it back together and enjoy! Detail work is what set a car apart. Don't settle for 20' or 10' perfection, 1' to 2' is so much more fun and rewarding. Now, let the fun begin! Dan PS: Brian, take a look at your attachments, side by side of color chips and car. In the natural light it looks like your car is a perfect match to the original shade.

Hi Mike, There is a local upholstery shop that will give me, but I alway pay something, a pint of there yellow upholstery contact cement, or glue, which they use in a sprayer for there purposes. The firewall has a number of tabs which hold the firewall insulator in place, nicely, but I paint both the firewall and jute with this glue, allow it to tack up, and then press it into place for a smooth and secure installation with the metal tabs. When I was able to find the sheet of black butyl material with the peel-off adhesive backing, and source some original horsehair jute, the creation of the insulator went very smoothly, and looks totally original when installed with the edges exposing the jute backing when looked at closely, just like the original. One of the most useful tools I have used when accurately cutting material from carpeting to jute to butyl sheets is a large, and very sharp set of upholsterers shears. Nothing looks more homemade than ragged edges. These beauties cut easily, precisely, and makes anything look factory. Thought I'd throw that in as a possibly helpful aside.

Alan, after taking a closer look, I believe you are absolutely correct. Probably 15 years ago, I order a faceplate for my early 240z. What I received was that radio delete storage pocket. I did hold onto it for several years but finally just gave it away. Not my best decision!

26th-z, Looks like the car in your picture also has the radio-delete storage pocket installed. Were cars delivered with this delete option anywhere, that you know of, or does that compromise the shift knob argument? I do know that this delete storage pocket part could be bought over the counter in the US.

When I picked up my car from the dealership 42 years ago, they had already replaced the wooden knob with an Amco leather covered knob with a red, white, and blue medallion inserted where the shift pattern normally is. I, then, purchased a little shift pattern plate, can't remember if it had an adhesive backing or little screws, and placed it on the console. I would say that your shift knob is Amco aftermarket. Dealers would put as much aftermarket stuff on new cars as they could to tack on every possible chance for a higher profit.

Newport Upholstery Source - Automotive Hardware Mike, The triangular piece is the female snap which is mounted on the backside of the carpet. This piece is fastened to the carpet with a retainer ring with three barbs which is on the front of the carpet. The above address should show these pieces sold by Newport Upholstery. The male snap ring mounted on the front of the firewall insulation is held on with a phillips head machine screw with a large fiber washer and small flat washer and nut on the back. Hope this helps. Dan By the way, using the original male carpet snap mounted on the firewall insulation, I was able to reproduce a very nice firewall insulation piece for the passenger side. Went to my local collision repair center and purchase a piece of black butyl, spl., with adhesive backing. Don't know the mil thickness but will check if interested. It duplicate the original very well. Then purchased some original jute from Newport. Made a pattern from original insulator, cut out the butyl, fastened it to the jute, and cut jute to pattern. Fastening the carpet snaps from old insulator was a "Snap", with new carpet snap pieces from Newport, and can't tell the difference from the original insulator.

Also, to tack onto 26th-z reply, from the first picture, it appears to have the series 1 quarter panel 240z emblem, and, from the rear interior picture of the hatch, it looks like the plastic hatch finisher panel is the early vented style. So, without venting, I would assume that the hatch has been replaced with the series 2 hatch with the series 1 verticle defroster glass, and interior finisher panels, etc., transfered to that later hatch. Look for rear end collision damage.

Steve, if you need an accurate color match, I may have an oLd red insulator that you can borrow. let me know. Dan

Thanks, Steve. They (the clear defroster wire boots) look good and definitely are very obvious, especially when burnt or discolored! Very nice work. Dan Steve, just as a point of interest, the brake booster insolator donut, as originally produced, I believe was made out of red rubber, on early cars anyway. I am not 100% with this, but am pretty sure, and would welcome any more accurate info.

Steve, Do you have any of these clear defroster wire boots available for sale, and the asking price, if so? Also looking forward to the choke cable firewall grommets when have them in original, early style. Thanks for all of your efforts with these projects to re-create hard to find parts. Dan

I'm just going to have to chime in. The later, angled version is probably still available, or can be found without too much difficulty, I am sure, in NOS condition. The only reason to want one of the early grommets, without the angular modeling and flared end of the nipple, as it seems to appear in Webmasinic70's photos, is because that is what it was "originally" for early cars. Forty year old rubber is going to dry rot and split. I can wait for the sake of acquiring a good reproduction of the authentic item. New rubber bends. Dan