dohc

As I've mentioned above, I've got a guage that looks the same as the 240Z one but is in Kph. If you've got a photo of yours ( or anyone does) I'll post a photo of what we've got and then we can see if a direct swap is possible? I'm looking to sell this speedo as I don't need a second speedo that has no zero, but it would suit the originality of a 240z R.

I thought Aus converted to kph in around '66-68? Not too sure though. My Valiant from 63 was in miles, as was a '67 Bellett I had, so it must have been after that. I was sure it was before 1969 though? R.

My Chassis number isn't even recorded on the rego, makes me worry a bit that it could be stolen and rebirthed very easily as only the Engine Number is recorded anywhere and that's easy to change..... R.

Hmmmmm.... The car that this speedo is out of is one of the very first 260z's into the country (well a low production number anyway) and according to the literature should be running all 240z instruments. Comparing it to the other 260z that I've got the dials are definately different (except the tacho I think) and does start at 20kpm.... The newer 260z has a zero and has different font on the dials along with a volt meter in the middle of the three clustered on the left. Anyone have any ideas as to why this is in kph yet the other guys are in mph? Was there a brief swap over period or something where they were in km's but still had no zero? Cheers, R.

Yeah, the Aussie ones are in Kph but the earliest (240 and early 260's) actually don't have a zero. Makes it difficult to do 5 or 10 kph around school grounds etc! BTW I've got a 240Z style speedo, amp/fuel and temp/oil guages that I'm looking to sell if anyone is interested... Cheers, R.

Black. I think it would look mean in black, with dark as tinting to boot.... Hmmmmm.... Now I'm drooling, that is a great shape! R.

Hmmmmmm...... No O2 Sensor makes it a bit harder. Does anyone know if these ECU's have limp home mode where a predefined set of values replace a sensors input if it is a) disconnected or giving readings of the scale?.... Firstly though I'd consider getting the injectors cleaned and sonic tested to make sure they are alright (its cheap and can't hurt anyway) and get them sealing properly as you'll never fix the big problem if little probs start occuring and making it worse..... Next? Hell, It's been ages since I've tinkered with EFi..... If it had limp home mode (or similar) you could disconnect the MAF and see what difference it makes and work from there. Without Limp Mode I really don't know what it will do. Let us know how you go or anything else that may help us help you:ermm: R.

Custom guages would be pretty neat, Just two sticking points; 1. It's in MPH not KPH - can they change this? 2. $AU to $US is pretty bad at the moment so that is over $250 to get them.... Just a bit steep when I probably won't be driving the car for another couple of months! Great Idea though, R.

Which guages are these? I don't remember seeing any pix or a post for it? R.

What have you checked already? My EFi car was doing that and it was a combination of a blocked air filter and a faulty MAF sensor in the air intake. Combined the engine wasn't getting enough air (filter) but thought it was getting heaps (sensor). As a result the ECU piled the fuel in and I got plumes of black smoke and a tendancy to flood! Hope this helps a bit? R.

In Australia a good alarm is about $500 installed. An over kill alarm with voice warnings and the works is about $1000 installed. R.

Mine is from the fact that my first racer was (and still is) a DOHC 2L EFi Holden Gemini. As it is fairly unique in Australia and easy for me to rememeber I've used it on a few sites.. Cheers, R.

The rotor arm in my pocket

Ya gonna have to fight me for it Alpha:classic:

Yeah, I'd believe 1200kg, that what it felt like when I had to push it As for curb weight Zedrally that means that it would have all the fluids to the correct level as deemed by the factory. So, full radiator, full sump, half a tank of fuel (I think), spare tyre etc.... No driver though Thanks for the responses though, It has helped a bit.... R.

Thanks Alan, I look forward to a response but I'll be off work for a couple of days so any answers may take awhile! Cheers, R.

I know what you mean man, I'm finding it hard to take to my parts car with an angle grinder as I've become a little attached to it.... I'll definately post some pix too. R.

I'd also like to add to this. How much more does a 260z 2+2 with the 5spd weigh? Thanks, R.

Ok, here we go again. What is the weight of a 260z 2+2 compared to a 260z or 260z coupe? As for the scrutineers, don't bad mouth them too much, I'm on time control at the Classic Adelaide this year ! Although I must admit they drive me nuts at the track, picking on something different everytime! Even if it has been like that for 2 years! Hmmmm, I wish I could find a 240z shell that would suit... any up your way? Cheers, R.

Hey zedrally, Have you competed in the Targa Tas, Targa NZ or Classic Adelaide? I'd be interested to hear what you thought of them and which setup works best! As for the 2+2, I'm able to strip 10% of the factory weight out, so good bye back seats! I basically need a 240z so that I sneak into the lower class (1500cc - 2500cc) but until I invest a lot in a car I want to learn the ropes as I may change my mind (or do things differently) a second time. Cheers, R.

I'm pretty sure all the smog exempt stuff relys on the actual age of the shell, not the engine. You can put anything (within reason, and power to weight restrictions) in a car that has it's model run beginning before the smog exemptions. Thats my understanding anyway.

Hey Alan, I've got to ask, What do you consider the most collectible early Zed? An early 240Z or a S30? Also I'm interested in racing a Datsun in the Targa events around Australia and NZ and as they run international rules on eligibilty I was wondering which would give the best platform to start from in a pre 1975 car? The rules call for two classes (that I'm interested in anyway) and are very strict about mods and even anything to do with front air dams, and flares need to be standard (or at least an option). The other way to get around this is to prove a competitive history of the part (ie an airdam has to have been used in 1973 competition to be used on a 1973 Zed) Unfortunatly I can't find very much info at all from the Datsun Competition department and what exactly they produced. To start off I'll just be using a 260Z 2+2 as it is cheap (the shell cost me $800) and if I kill it in my first outing it won't be a tradgedy Down the track though I want a 240Z dirivitive that has a bit more class and can be raced competitivly in its division (1500cc - 2500cc) Oh, and another thing. Which Zed models were produced prior to December 1981? Does the 280ZX fit in? or just the 280Z? Cheers, Ross. BTW does anyone know how much you'd be looking at to import a Zed from the US as opposed to Japan? I know that their LHD but if I can find a thrashed donor car in Australia then I may work out up? Specifically a 280Z with a 5spd and the injection.....

How did this end up in Funnybone? but while on topic, did the R180 come as LSD or only the R200? R.

Don't know about growing up I bought a Zed cause it has more guts, hugs the turns better than my Gemini, has more possibilities and looks good (well it will when I'm finished!) As they always say, "There's no replacement for displacement..." I think the handling makes up for it though and I've got the more displacement I was after. Cheers, R.

I'm with Rob, I've got a pair of the Escort mirrors as they only cost $20 from the junk yard, are compact and sleek and your can paint them body coloured with no hassles. I think they came on Cortina's and the Aussie Falcons too, but I can't be sure as mine were actually on a Gemini Panelvan when I found them On this thread though, what do stock mirrors look like? I've found three differant variants and the two Zed's I've had have different mirrors anyway? Anyone with photo's on this would be great, just for interest sake. Cheers, R.