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Yeah, I'd believe 1200kg, that what it felt like when I had to push it As for curb weight Zedrally that means that it would have all the fluids to the correct level as deemed by the factory. So, full radiator, full sump, half a tank of fuel (I think), spare tyre etc.... No driver though Thanks for the responses though, It has helped a bit.... R.

Thanks Alan, I look forward to a response but I'll be off work for a couple of days so any answers may take awhile! Cheers, R.

I know what you mean man, I'm finding it hard to take to my parts car with an angle grinder as I've become a little attached to it.... I'll definately post some pix too. R.

I'd also like to add to this. How much more does a 260z 2+2 with the 5spd weigh? Thanks, R.

Ok, here we go again. What is the weight of a 260z 2+2 compared to a 260z or 260z coupe? As for the scrutineers, don't bad mouth them too much, I'm on time control at the Classic Adelaide this year ! Although I must admit they drive me nuts at the track, picking on something different everytime! Even if it has been like that for 2 years! Hmmmm, I wish I could find a 240z shell that would suit... any up your way? Cheers, R.

Hey zedrally, Have you competed in the Targa Tas, Targa NZ or Classic Adelaide? I'd be interested to hear what you thought of them and which setup works best! As for the 2+2, I'm able to strip 10% of the factory weight out, so good bye back seats! I basically need a 240z so that I sneak into the lower class (1500cc - 2500cc) but until I invest a lot in a car I want to learn the ropes as I may change my mind (or do things differently) a second time. Cheers, R.

I'm pretty sure all the smog exempt stuff relys on the actual age of the shell, not the engine. You can put anything (within reason, and power to weight restrictions) in a car that has it's model run beginning before the smog exemptions. Thats my understanding anyway.

Hey Alan, I've got to ask, What do you consider the most collectible early Zed? An early 240Z or a S30? Also I'm interested in racing a Datsun in the Targa events around Australia and NZ and as they run international rules on eligibilty I was wondering which would give the best platform to start from in a pre 1975 car? The rules call for two classes (that I'm interested in anyway) and are very strict about mods and even anything to do with front air dams, and flares need to be standard (or at least an option). The other way to get around this is to prove a competitive history of the part (ie an airdam has to have been used in 1973 competition to be used on a 1973 Zed) Unfortunatly I can't find very much info at all from the Datsun Competition department and what exactly they produced. To start off I'll just be using a 260Z 2+2 as it is cheap (the shell cost me $800) and if I kill it in my first outing it won't be a tradgedy Down the track though I want a 240Z dirivitive that has a bit more class and can be raced competitivly in its division (1500cc - 2500cc) Oh, and another thing. Which Zed models were produced prior to December 1981? Does the 280ZX fit in? or just the 280Z? Cheers, Ross. BTW does anyone know how much you'd be looking at to import a Zed from the US as opposed to Japan? I know that their LHD but if I can find a thrashed donor car in Australia then I may work out up? Specifically a 280Z with a 5spd and the injection.....

How did this end up in Funnybone? but while on topic, did the R180 come as LSD or only the R200? R.

Don't know about growing up I bought a Zed cause it has more guts, hugs the turns better than my Gemini, has more possibilities and looks good (well it will when I'm finished!) As they always say, "There's no replacement for displacement..." I think the handling makes up for it though and I've got the more displacement I was after. Cheers, R.

I'm with Rob, I've got a pair of the Escort mirrors as they only cost $20 from the junk yard, are compact and sleek and your can paint them body coloured with no hassles. I think they came on Cortina's and the Aussie Falcons too, but I can't be sure as mine were actually on a Gemini Panelvan when I found them On this thread though, what do stock mirrors look like? I've found three differant variants and the two Zed's I've had have different mirrors anyway? Anyone with photo's on this would be great, just for interest sake. Cheers, R.

I'm 23 with no sign of maturing soon :classic: R.

I'm a racer. Road and Track The Zed hasn't seen too much of the track yet as it is currently getting a new engine into it! but my old Gemini (Holden) has seen about four years worth. Once the Zed is finished it will be ready to compete in targa events which is very similar to the category that Hmsport is racing in except it is on open roads not the track. I'll get some photos from the next run at the local circuit down here and see if I can post them. Cheers, R.

Hey guy_geo, That is a sweet lookin' Zed. Looks very nice, especially with the white interior! My parts car used to have a white interior too, until one of the previous owners spray painted it all black. Very tacky.... Is that paint colour a factory colour? or did you respray it? And you mentioned that the front air damn is factory (or close too), do you have any references to which years it was installed or if it was used in any racing? The reason I ask is that one of the events that I'm putting my 260Z into asks for everything to be factory equipment or at least an equivalent reproduction... Cheers, Ross

Just to add to the clammering for attention, I would love to get my hands on a copy too..... What kind of cost you thinking of? Cheers, Ross

I'm with AlphaDog. Their all Zed's (not ZX's) and that's what matters...... R.

Hey Zorro, The 280Z never made it to Oz, i think it made it to NZ though? Basically it was the early body shape with the later injected motor. It had fairly poxy (IMHO) bumpers to met the new laws that killed off chrome. I always thought that they'd go alright as I 'assumed' they used the old style light weight body of teh 240Z. Where did the extra weight of the 280Z come from? Anyone? Cheers, R. Undercoated 260Z 2+2 (which I still ascertain handles the best!)

I think I'm gonna get killed for even mentioning this, but I think the 260Z 2+2 has a certain attraction... I've got two of them at the moment and once they become one I'll be putting a kit a front dam on and then start racing it..... I've found from experience and asking other guys at the track, that the 2+2 also handles better that the 2 seaters and has a "better ride quality". Ok, I know the carbs are crap (I'm running the '71 SU's) but overall I'm going to support the 260Z 2+2.... (Yes, I'm now ducking and running ) Cheers, Ross. BTW: Lets not let this become a war over which is better, again...

Hey Doug, That was a great show, I sat here riveted to the TV :classic: Did you see the footage of that blue and white Zed ploughing through the hay bails? Bit too much under steer eh? Any ways, I've got all of the details on entry etc kicking around somewher for the Targa Tassie, Targa NZ and the Classic Adelaide (its a Targa event for the first time this year!). I'm intending on puttin my 260Z into it in two years for a bit of fun. It will (unfortunatly) be out classed as it ends up in the 2500cc - 4500cc class! I think it will be a great learning experience and a good cheap runner for a first attempt. Steep learning curve and upwards of $5,500 entry fee! Anyway, back to work Cheers, Ross

Hey Kmack, I'm not an expert on body repairs, having only done small work and hidden welding (floor pans of course myself, but I do know from others experience that the rear quarters are the hardest part of any car to repair. I don't doubt you could find someone who would do a good job and fix her back to new but it will take time, and probably a bit of cash as well. The rear quarters on any car have a stack of spot welds that hold them all together and my understanding is that htey all need to be picked apart, panels straighened and then rewelded together. This is a painful process by all accounts, and then it all has to be smoothed over and painted..... Good Luck with the repairs, my only advice is to make sure the shop you go to knows what they are doing as this isn't extremely hard, just time consuming and you don't want them cutting corners..... R.

That's harsh man, but it could be a lot worse. You could have been pushed into another car or even got hurt yourself! As kmack said, it'll take a bit of time to repair, but it's still definately possible... Cheers, R.

Funny, I've never noticed that before? I'll have to take a look, although I've got a feeling that my extractors are a little more in the way.... Which block do you think is the best from a performance point of view? R.

Oh, Ok. Cool. Next question then is where on the block are these castings? I've never actually seen them? Cheers, R.

Where are you? If your in Australia I'm interested, otherwise..... Cheers, R. ross.smith@eds.com

Hey Za-ch, The numbers listed above by Zed are actually for the head, not the block. They are accurate if the car you have is completely original. What you need to look for is the engine number which is on the passenger side of your engine, just above the oil filter. It will start with L24, L26, L28 etc. These refer to the 2.4l, 2.6l 2.8l etc... For Example: I've currently got an L26 block running a N42 head which has the notches in it for the fuel injectors but I've got the SU's from a 240 on it..... Hope that helps, if not just find the numbers on your engine and we'll decypher it from there! Cheers, R.