Diseazd

The only thing I see is the end of the mousetrap spring should be coming out of the center of the anchor spring not down through the center and a little wear on the timing chain. I give Blue....fill us in.

If you think of the silver and burgundy Singer 911 you are getting what I am saying. But I will definitey ask for samples as your requested bud. Thanks for the good advice. .......and the Singer 911 is only $350,000.00. Go ahead Stephen....one would look great in your garage!

Keep up the "fair work" Bruce!

The 260 fits fine.....it is a three row instead of a two row and it doesn't have the little medal hood over the fan, but you can take the metal hood off of the 240 radiator and have it braised on the 260 radiator. It'll work fine Wael. Guy

Always fun to see the transport pull up to unload! Almost like Xmas only better. I've bought 5 without seeing the actual car in the flesh. Never been disappointed yet......the car looks great....I'm sure it'll be a good experience for you Zedy. I'm happy for you!

Ozzy.....I've got the perfect vanity plate: SWZCHZ as in Swiss Cheese. :stupid:

Your mechanical fuel pump (if you have one) can be the culprit.....check to see if you have any wet oil around the shaft seal......that can wear out and drip oil.

Anyone ever use this product? Tires and wheels are so important in making a car look good. I recently got a spray bottle of EnviroTireShine as a giveaway at a Z car show. Usually you get stuff that just plain sucks at car shows. I gave it a try and it really gives tires a deep dull natural shine......awesome. My guess is that it hasn't been marketed correctly........just wondering if anyone else agrees. It's environmentally friendly which doesn't mean zip to me, but the results are amazing!

Eiji's meeting me at my house at 8:30......we'll drive up route 5 past all the James River plantations, through Jamestown and Williamsburg and on to Hampton to the Pilati Car Show.

Hi Arnie......I've had 2 911's and one 912.....always came back to the Datsuns cause they were so much easier to work on. There is a special feeling to driving the 911, sound and smell looking over that invisible hood and those VDO gauges. The rear engine is very cool also....makes the front end so responsive. Good to hear from you again. BTW....eggshell is my favorite color on the 911....don't think they made many in that color. Guy

You can still buy each from Nissan new for a couple bucks each........

Welcome to the multiple Datsun club Stephen. That looks like a really nice 2000!

You know what you want.....go for it! Hope this thread on my experience helps. Good Luck! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/35036-ground-control-coilovers.html

I never could get the "pretty girls" until I got my GC stuts and Willwoods. Now I have to beat 'em off with a stock sway bar! If you want tires that fit Eibach and Konis, go with 205 55 16's, if you like the big tires, go with the coilovers and camber plates.....I had to really crank in the negative camber to tuck in the 225 50 16's when the car was lowered. It looks awesome, but handles on the road, not much better than the Eibachs/Tokicos. Zed Head is trying to save you money.....you want $$$$$ or a cool lowered car and hot chicks? Your wife can probably answer the question for you! :tapemouth

I love my GC Coilovers......You can really put the car down, but for the street, it's probably more bling than bang for the buck....I can't feel a whole lot of difference between the GC's and the Eibach/Tokicos. IMO, but it sure looks good. Throw in some front and rear Willwoods and you can really burn some green!

Anyone headed to Hampton for Todd's show?

I'm really impressed with the craftsmanship! Really lights it up eh? Nice work. Wanna race Greyson in his Tyco twin turbo with his wide sixes and his MoMo happy wheel? ( shown in my avatar) :stupid:

Your first motor.....go with what you've got....L28 crank and rods. Keep it simple and cheaper. Get someone who knows what he's doing (good machine shop or local Z nut) to put together bottom end and head. Assembly's not too hard after that if you read the FSM and follow tothe letter. SU's are much simpler than trips.....you can always add triples later. IMHO

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/34448-new-l-28-my-72-a.html These should answer most of your questions.....N42 head doesn't need the head work that the P79/p90 heads need. I've had 0 problems with Isky cam/ spring combo. I've never done an N42/n47 head, so consult someone else for help there. Remember.....when putting performance higher lift cams.....1) use new rockers 2) use correct lash pads to center wipe pattern 3) use shorter valve seals if interference from retainer and valve seal is a problem. Have an expert check valve spring retainer to valve seal clearance.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/42488-new-engine.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/31001-new-l-28-goes-1970-a.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/34448-new-l-28-my-72-a.html Pretty much explains what I do Crazy......plenty of power....lots of fun!

Good question CrazySwede......If the valve is longer, how do you compensate for the longer valve? With the P79/P90 head, when you shave the head .080 inches, you shim the the valve springs .080, the cam towers .080 and use the early L28 valves which are .080 inches longer. Therefore, the distance between crank sprocket and cam sprocket remain the same as stock....in other words, the engine remains at stock geometry in regards to the valve train and chain distance. With the DSI longer valve, if you shim the valve spring, without shimming the cam towers, wouldn't you throw the geometry of the valve train haywire? And, if you shimmed the cam towers, wouldn't you screw up the chain distance, unless you shaved the head by that much more? No doubt that the longer valve would be a big help for retainer to valve seal clearance on higher lift cams and bigger and lighter is definitely a plus.

Great story Mitch......hope you had a GoPro cd to remember your experience!

Shake em side to side.......if one or two feel loser than others, tighten the gap from .010 to .008 inches. Sometimes when you torque the lock nuts down, you'll change the lash clearance on that final lock down. Your noise is almost certainly in the valve train....loose is noisy...right?