Diseazd

Absolutely........It'll probably get a total restoration too. He's been looking for a lemon green car for awhile. Rust free is what he was looking for.

A good friend of mine bought the car..........it looks great in the ad......we'll see.

Checked with Z Doc.......you're right Zed Head. He says as long as there is no warpage from one head to the other, you can swap towers from one to the other!

Stang.........L series cam towers are align bored. I don't think you can take cam towers from one head and put on another head........the cam probably won't turn freely. Also, if you ever take cam towers off of a head, number each tower so that they go back in the same order for the same reason. Also, 1mm (.040 inches) is a lot to take off of a head without shims.......brings the cam sprocket closer to the crank sprocket.....this affects cam timing and chain slack.

Beautiful car Al.....watch out for the Roo's!

I had the same problem using Nissan .040 over L24 ( 73 ) Pistons with the valve reliefs. We were .030 out with a stock height block. We milled .020 off the Pistons ........I think it cost $100.00. Problem solved!

Nope...

You need to get a number of size lash pads. When I geometry a Stage III cam, I have a .150, a .160, a .170, and a .180 lash pad. With a stock cam, you'd probaly need a .120, .130 and maybe a.140 (not sure about the stock sizes). Go through each rocker, center the wipe pattern. I use an old egg carton (12 holes) .....I number 1 through 12 and write in magic marker the lash pad size for each rocker. Put that rocker in that hole too, then you know things are where they should be when you put it together. Remember to set proper valve lash when you geomery the rockers. If you have a good engine builder, the valve stem height will be spot on. My last engine was ten .160 pads and two .150's.

All I can tell you is they work great for me...... looked like new.......wipe patterns centered perfectly and broke in just like they're supposed to.......no complaints!

I send my original rockers off to Delta Cams........they come back looking like new in a 10 day turnaround at $3.00 each. I like the idea of using the original Datsun metals (rockers) with the original Datsun metals (camshaft). Just like they left the factory. Isky regrinds my original Datsun camshafts.

The argument goes on and on. New or old rockers? If I'm going to invest the time and money to build a new engine with a new cam, I'm certainly going to break for the extra cost of new rockers ........I'll bet if you look at the old rockers under a microscope, it would be interesting. However, you'll get an argument on either side, so do what YOU think is right. I've got 5 new engines all with Isky Stage III regrinds (from original Datsun cams) and new rockers and springs. They all look and run perfect after several thousand miles. However, my friend The Z Doctor in Roanoke claims that some aftermarket cam cores are not compatable with Nissan rockers and wear quickly. He thinks that the compatability of the original metals used in Datsun engines account for the long life of the early Datsun engines, so I wouldn't use anything but orignal Datsun cams for my regrind (Isky). All IMO.

Eiji at Datsun Spirit will build you a perfect head. He's a stickler for detail. He can either rebuild the head you've got or provide you with one from his inventory. It'll be like new. Check out his website.......Datsunspirit.com

Steve.....Your car keeps getting better and better. The spoiler and wheels look great! As does the early bumper.

Delta does a beautiful job.....$3.00 each and back in 10 days.....always. If someone can beat that I'd be surprised. Make sure you inspect the rockers you send to insure they're in good shape. Hope you're surviving the winter Mitchell.

Real nice job bvolken.....we appreciate your efforts!

I agree with Jonathan......stock rods are more than adequate for street driven Z's, as I believe are the Nissan rod bolts. There is usually plenty of used Datsun rods on EBay. If not, you can source a used set from zcarsource.com or some other supplier. Save your money for the head.....that's where things really happen.

You would be right about being an absolute dog. IMO, I would keep the L24/E31 in the car........store the L28 in your wife's closet until you can install flat tops and a shaved and shimmed P90 head with a nice Stage III cam. I don't know what h.p. the de tuned engine would turn, but my guess would be less than what you've got now.

Sorry Mike......Just saw your post. No I didnt. It's a beautiful car, but low prices on the Z32's keep me from selling it. The nice only bring 7 to 10 grand. Hardly worth selling at that price, and I can't work on anything but the old Z's.

Cliff.....I have 3 or 4 engine build threads. One is the L28 for the 72, one is the L28 for the White 70, and I think there's some info on the L24 for the silver 73. Also, in the thread Newest addition to the garage, I build an engine in that one too.......that is an L24 with an E31 head. Another thread is New Engine which is an L28 with an L24 crank and a P79 head.......take your choice if you can find those posts with Mike's new format. I had 6 or 7 pages of threads......don't know how to find the old ones any more.

I'm with Julio......I think the Ferrari Dino 246 is one of my top 5 favorite cars of all time!

You can take off a fender and pull it from the side, or put a couple blankets across the fender and have someone steady the lift so as not to put any pressure on the fender and lift it from the side. To take it off from the front, you need to remove front bumper, spoiler and valence.I assume that you are using a Harbor Freight lift. BTW.......If clearance is a problem from the front, put it on jack stands and pull a wheel.

Very cool video......I had the pleasure to do track days at Road Atlanta when I lived there in the 70's in my 240Z with the Atlanta Corvette Club. We would work the turns for those guys, then they'd let us do some laps. If I remember, the back straight wasn't too straight.

Isky Stage II cam is .480 lift which requires aftermarket springs and a shorter seal for the E31 head. Stock springs are OK up to .460 lift supposedly. If you're having someone else build the engine that knows Datsun engines, by all means go with a bigger cam. Just understand that you'll need new rockers (IMO), springs, short seals and all new lash pads to make everything work. Cast pistons (ITM) and standard rod and main bolts will be adequate for the street. Nissan bearings are available.

ARP bolts are a PITA IMO. Rod ARP bolts must be hard pressed in by a machine shop, and if not installed all the way in, they will separate over time and you could put a rod through the block. For street use, use new Nissan bolts for rods and mains.....MSA sells turbo head bolts....worth the money. Same thing with Pistons......ITM makes a nice cast piston.....plenty adequate for the street. If it's your first engine, go back with the stock cam, if you don't want to have to use non stock valve springs, seals etc. .....not to mention new rockers and geometrying the cam. (Not for novices). When you remove the rockers, keep em in order if you're going back with the stock cam. Get the best rings.....Nissan, Total Seal, Perfect Circle etc. Early Z heads (E31) require hardened valve seats (a must) and a multi angle valve job. Use Nissan stuff when available all IMO.

Jasper......Good deer hunting if I recall. Nice looking car.