Diseazd

Delta does a beautiful job.....$3.00 each and back in 10 days.....always. If someone can beat that I'd be surprised. Make sure you inspect the rockers you send to insure they're in good shape. Hope you're surviving the winter Mitchell.

Real nice job bvolken.....we appreciate your efforts!

I agree with Jonathan......stock rods are more than adequate for street driven Z's, as I believe are the Nissan rod bolts. There is usually plenty of used Datsun rods on EBay. If not, you can source a used set from zcarsource.com or some other supplier. Save your money for the head.....that's where things really happen.

You would be right about being an absolute dog. IMO, I would keep the L24/E31 in the car........store the L28 in your wife's closet until you can install flat tops and a shaved and shimmed P90 head with a nice Stage III cam. I don't know what h.p. the de tuned engine would turn, but my guess would be less than what you've got now.

Sorry Mike......Just saw your post. No I didnt. It's a beautiful car, but low prices on the Z32's keep me from selling it. The nice only bring 7 to 10 grand. Hardly worth selling at that price, and I can't work on anything but the old Z's.

Cliff.....I have 3 or 4 engine build threads. One is the L28 for the 72, one is the L28 for the White 70, and I think there's some info on the L24 for the silver 73. Also, in the thread Newest addition to the garage, I build an engine in that one too.......that is an L24 with an E31 head. Another thread is New Engine which is an L28 with an L24 crank and a P79 head.......take your choice if you can find those posts with Mike's new format. I had 6 or 7 pages of threads......don't know how to find the old ones any more.

I'm with Julio......I think the Ferrari Dino 246 is one of my top 5 favorite cars of all time!

You can take off a fender and pull it from the side, or put a couple blankets across the fender and have someone steady the lift so as not to put any pressure on the fender and lift it from the side. To take it off from the front, you need to remove front bumper, spoiler and valence.I assume that you are using a Harbor Freight lift. BTW.......If clearance is a problem from the front, put it on jack stands and pull a wheel.

Very cool video......I had the pleasure to do track days at Road Atlanta when I lived there in the 70's in my 240Z with the Atlanta Corvette Club. We would work the turns for those guys, then they'd let us do some laps. If I remember, the back straight wasn't too straight.

Isky Stage II cam is .480 lift which requires aftermarket springs and a shorter seal for the E31 head. Stock springs are OK up to .460 lift supposedly. If you're having someone else build the engine that knows Datsun engines, by all means go with a bigger cam. Just understand that you'll need new rockers (IMO), springs, short seals and all new lash pads to make everything work. Cast pistons (ITM) and standard rod and main bolts will be adequate for the street. Nissan bearings are available.

ARP bolts are a PITA IMO. Rod ARP bolts must be hard pressed in by a machine shop, and if not installed all the way in, they will separate over time and you could put a rod through the block. For street use, use new Nissan bolts for rods and mains.....MSA sells turbo head bolts....worth the money. Same thing with Pistons......ITM makes a nice cast piston.....plenty adequate for the street. If it's your first engine, go back with the stock cam, if you don't want to have to use non stock valve springs, seals etc. .....not to mention new rockers and geometrying the cam. (Not for novices). When you remove the rockers, keep em in order if you're going back with the stock cam. Get the best rings.....Nissan, Total Seal, Perfect Circle etc. Early Z heads (E31) require hardened valve seats (a must) and a multi angle valve job. Use Nissan stuff when available all IMO.

Jasper......Good deer hunting if I recall. Nice looking car.

Bruce Palmer hangs out with quite a few dipsticks! Give him a call at Ztherapy.

What a bunch of crooks. I've never seen such crap in my life. How are these guys still in business? So sorry you've had such a bad experience Rossiz.........

Can anyone sponsoring the show tell us if we have covered parking for the entries? Also......do they have set aside parking for the the trailers and tow vehicles?

I run stock(early) exhaust manifolds on all of mine. The stock manifolds don't match the P79 head either, but they work fine. The experts tell me the stock manifold is pretty efficient......no hollow sound either. I've also heard that a longer duration cam i.e. Stage III Isky is less likely to cause ping in higher compression engines. I also only use the SU carbs......they make plenty of street power with less hassle (IMO)......no idea what EFI does with a highly modified head.....sounds to me that it's a problem according to Jeff. I've never built an N42 head. Z Doctor in Roanoke built my first modified P79 head and I loved it so much, I did it 3 more times. Sounds like Jeff loves his set up too!

Ditto what Jeff said......I have 4 Z's with P79 heads with 080 inches shaved off. I can't make 'em ping in any gear. The P79/ P90 is a more advanced combustion chamber......ping ain't fun!

Taiwan according to Eiji.

I think you are dead on with those numbers......my L28's make max h.p. at 5400 rpm anyway. 6500 for the L28.....7000 for the shorter stroke L24.

Couldn't tell the difference.....I'd buy the cheapest. IMO

My painter works at his own pace! I didn't say which August. No problem with the dust caps (stock caps). I don't know why yours wouldn't work....I definitely wouldn't run without them. Thanks for all the compliments....they go to my painter though. He's an artist and this will be my best Z yet. Can't wait to see it buffed and going back together!

Finally, there is fresh paint on the 72. These pictures are before any buffing. Absolutely beautiful job. I'll keep adding pictures as he progresses.

Sorry DJ.....I haven't pulled it apart yet. I had another new engine to drop in, so I haven't checked the bottom mains yet. I certainly will follow up and let everyone know what I find when I do. Guy

Banzai Motorworks Check with Mike at Banzai Motorworks.....

I've heard, anything over .460 lift requires new springs to prevent stacking. Dave Rebello sells an outter spring that can be used with a stock inner spring that allows up to .500 lift. You can use the stock retainers with up to a .210 lash pad according to him. I like the Isky Valve Springs, but in the early heads, you need to use a shorter valve seal to prevent contact with the bottom of the retainer (not good).