Diseazd

My guess is that if a new camshaft is destroyed on start up, it's probably more from a lack of lubrication flow than the type of oil. I've never had a problem with camshaft break in, but I make sure I fill the oil pump with oil before installation to insure it's primed.....also coat lobes and rockers with heavy zinc break in lube. If Isky recommends VR1, I'm going to use it.......may not make a difference, but I don't want to find out that it does.

Jeff........To get another Z, I'd have to expand my garages.....and what are the chances of that????

Nope ......this time I'm sure!

Thanks rdefabri........that's about the best compliment I could ask for......sorry, I couldn't part with any of them........but, I'm done.....no more!

My gosh Stephen.....you're human too. Must not have had your safety socks on!

I've got 'em on all five of mine......no problem what so ever.

I would tighten the two bolts that go from the diff through the mustache bar. Unless they are damned tight, it'll make a similar sound.

SledZ........Once you get a set of Total Seal or Nissan rings, you'll understand how bad the ITM oil ring is! The pistons are awesome, and the top and middle ring are fine....just that oil ring which can destroy an engine if not installed correctly. Don't buy Hastings either.....they're almost as bad.

The secret is to throw those rings away and buy Total Seal or Nissan rings.......ITM pistons are great, but the rings aren't. IMO

My friend Mike Lee took a couple cool shots of the orange Z at Cars and Coffee this morning.

Yes....I'm almost sure that would be correct ......the longer springs (1) would go in the front to offset the engine weight. The rear springs would end in the number (2).

Ztherapy sells SU oil. Why not use what they recommend? I've got a couple bottles of their oil and it seems a heck of a lot thinner than 30wt. oil.........but about the same consistency of 3 in One machine oil ( in the little squeeze cans ).

You have to drill two 3/8 inch holes. I bought a 9 inch drill extension to drill the holes. If you go on the Futofab site, they show the directions in the add. The whole installation only takes about 1 1/2 hours.

Zcarsource.com has Tokico Blues........that's what I would go with!

Stephen.....Good choice on the Eibachs......I think you'll love 'em. Nice soft ride around town and progressively firmer under G. Did you ever put the new interior in the white car?

I wish he wouldn't use those big words........Sometimes I think engineers read too much. I love that roadster, but I think it has a little too much DRIP in the front!

Ride height of Eibachs............

Zedy.......You'll love the ride you get with Eibachs........they don't lower the stock ride height much....maybe a half inch. Glad to see you back on the Z. Any pics of the roadster? Hope you have your "safety socks" on when you're working on that suspension. BTW.....Eibachs are black, so they look stock.

Chris.....Just wondering......why not put a couple clips in the new cut out area to finish off your cut out more? I like both of your solutions......just find it hard to cut the console of a Series 1.

I bead blast mine to metal and have them ceramic coated. If you don't want to spend the $$$$ for ceramic coating, bead blast and paint with VHT.

If you can get the air tube slugs out, you can buy brass plugs to fill the holes.

Bravo Bruce! You're the guys that keep em running!

The "absorber" is equal to a chamois IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY69V/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=43845868762&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6759956198359111516&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5nft8ffx1m_b This works great....