Diseazd

Went to work on the Z Doctor P79 head today. I geometried all the wipe patterns for the Isky Stage III cam and valve springs. All rockers centered out with .160 lash pads except 2 which were .150's. I use an old egg carton to keep everything in order. Hope to start reassembly soon.

Thanks Chas.....Hot water worked like a charm.....5 minutes and she came right out! Just used hot tap water.

No problem....I just ordered a pair of the chrome strips....$200.00 with shipping....we'll see how they look. Anyone know how to remove the lenses from the housing? I think there was a post on that subject ......seems it involves heat, but not sure. Can you remove the old strip without removing the lense from the housing? Most of my lenses are in good shape....just the chrome strip that goes bad. Any help would be appreciated.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/41722-240z-chrome-taillamp-strips.html

Call Mike at Banzai Motorworks.....he sells the reproductions and would probably be able to answer your request Jerry. www.zzxdatsun.com

Chris.....I'm not sure, but if I recall, they were from an early Toyota Fourrunner (maybe 1984)......If I were you, I'd get Conedodger's (Rob's)friend to rebuild your stock units as mentioned in post number 2 (Willoughby Z). That guy does an amazing job, and a rebuilt set of stock Z calipers will work as well as the Toyoshimo's with no cutting required. Unless you're racing, replacing the rear drums with discs is a major job (PITA). I'd stick with drums. IMO

I'm referring to the crank seal.... Not the side seals.

Did you use a Nissan seal? I'm going back with Felpro......It's such a PITA to replace too!

Anyone else feel like the Nissan rear seals aren't up to snuff? My 73 just developed a pretty good rear seal leak. It has a new (blue) Nissan rear seal (2000 miles). Which seal works best for you? I'm going to go back with Felpro. I was going to replace the tranny with a 5 speed anyway, but it still makes no sense why a seal with that low mileage would start to leak. BTW, it isn't the groove that's the problem....I always allow for that.

My 3:54 with a B type 4 speed is running 3000 rpm at 60 mph in 4th gear. I wouldn't want to run a 4 speed with a 3:90 .......go with a 5 speed. IMO

Why would you need another Z Stephen? You've already got one.

Sorry e-tek......I think I'd go with just the silver metallic.............why don't you ask your wife's opinion? :ogre: The work is awesome!

Why is everyone trying to "reinvent the wheel"? If you use the stock mount and the Ron Tyler mount with a bump stop, all you've done is installed a solution that is far superior to stock but at the same time kept the alignment that Nissan engineers intended. The stock rubber mount also prevents vibration from causing stress fracture of the cross member.....even if it damaged. IMO......Use the R/T mount with a bump stop and the stock rubber mount.....works great on all 5 of my cars.

Jarvo.....I believe they are "0" offset. I'm running coilovers, so we can go as low as you dare. The tires are 225-50-16.....a tough tire to fit. They look great, but a 205-55-16 is easier to fit in the wells. Thanks for the compliment.

Can't beat a set of 16 inch Panasports.....IMO

What kind of damper bolt and washer is in your damper? I used one of the Nismo damper bolt sets with the drop down washer once with a stock damper. When you torqued it up, it set down in the damper against the nose of the crank without really snugging up the crank pulley, worm gear and oil slinger. If the washer you're using isn't flat (as in one plane), this could be your problem. It results in chain noise and will drive you crazy trying to figure out where it came from.

git.....I believe the Panasport's are "0" offset on the green car.......I just ordered a set for the orange car from Spruell Racing in Atlanta. They have the best price on Panasports. I think they would look great on your green car.

Really nice restoration git ............done the right way. The end product will be awesome.......can't wait to see it. What money is made for!

BlackDragon shows them available at $169.95 or maybe try Spruell Racing in Atlanta.BD phone is 1 888 789 3746.

Blue.....When you shave a head .080 inches without shimming the towers, how do you adjust the chain slop? With the P79 shaved .080 inches, we use the early valves (.080 inches longer) and shim the towers and springs up .080 inches to end up right where we started. Just curious with how you make the adjustment on an N47 shaved that much? Guy

Right Steve......I notice the plug location is right in the center of the head chamber. I guess that's what makes it better, plus the peanut shaped combustion chamber pushes the compressed gases to the plug. I'll have to take other people's (smarter than me) word for it though.....I just do what Z Doctor suggests (except for my L24/L28 combo) with my builds.....then I put them together. I'm picking up another P79 modified head from him in Roanoke next week.....I'll run Stephen's numbers by him and see if he can shed light on the subject.....he's driving the bus.....I ride in the back!

"Holy horsepower Bat Boy".....don't ever say that! I run the .080 inch cut P79 head which is 10 to 1 CR just like yours. The P79 head is a more modern head, but shouldn't make that much difference. Z Doctor has told me that that set up won't have detonation because of the higher duration and lift of the Isky Stage II and Stage III cams that I run (don't know if that's true or not, but I believe what Doc tells me). Stage II is 280 degrees and .480 lift while the Stage III is 290 degrees and .490 lift. At 17 degrees timing at 1000 rpm, I can't make either engine ping, under any load. Seeing as your engine is close to my engine in just about every aspect, what is the lift and duration of your camshaft? Maybe that could be the difference, or maybe the increased deck height of your pistons are putting you closer to 11:1. If the engine runs good on an additive, so be it. It's your cheapest alternative. We can buy 100 octane race gas in Richmond, but it's $7.00 per gallon, which still makes the additive your best bet.

Leon......It did on the 71, I had to adjust the front valence on the 72. If you loosen up all the hardware, you can actually move the valence forward enough for clearance. I think the 225 50 16's fill the wells the best, but require substancial tweeking for everything to work without rubbing.

16X7" Wheels with 205 55 16" tires. I love the Eibachs with either Tokico Blues or Illuminas ( I have both and would recommend either).

Steve.....I didn't notice any difference at all. The squeaking drove me crazy and the silicon grease lasted a couple a months and the squeak was back. You can buy stock bushings right from the dealer and they are cheap. Maybe a full blown race car needs em, but street and weekend warriors don't IMO.