Diseazd

http://poecronk.com/property/z-doctor-building/

http://www.roanoke.com/obituaries/woodford-david-wordenton/article_d3ab1a0e-a31b-564a-b39b-56616b1a16d4.html?mode=jqm

So sad to announce the passing of my long time friend Z Doc. Dave was an incredible person with a complete knowledge of the Datsun L series engines. He is the founder of the P90/P79 shaved and shimmed head. He did five for me alone......I will miss him immensely. Drive on Doc........you will be missed more than you know!

Really nice work Zed Head.......you should be a detective! Those aren't ITM pistons and therefore is a mystery block from a mystery builder. I wonder what brand of pistons California Datsun uses?

.......on second examination, mine don't have the markings you are showing in your pics.

The casting looks like ITM's. Here is a couple pics of an ITM flat top before it went in one of my F54 blocks. Amazing.....I've never seen anything like those broken skirts. Good luck in finding the cause.

It looks like you have the Series 2 set up and Motorman7 has the Series 1. In that case, you would install the mount the reverse of his (whichever way it moves the diff rearward). Your mustache bar is installed correctly.

If your set up is a Series 2, you need to install the diff mount so it moves the diff rearward.

The position of your diff mount and mustache bar depends on whether your Z is a Series 1 or Series 2. The Series 1 (early cars) had a shorter driveshaft and a more angular position of the half shafts. To remedy this, you could flip the tranny mount 180 degrees and use a series 2 mustache bar (curved versus flat). This moved the diff back, therefore the half shaft problem resolved. You also had to add the later rear hangars (curved to accept moving the diff rearward) and the longer driveshaft. To figure out which is which, figure out what you're running.

I built a 510 motor on my kitchen floor years ago. Same system.....plastic tarp....3 layers of cardboard and muscle. Nice!

Wow......So sorry to hear the tragic news about John.....we will miss you John.

Sounds like a plan.....alcohol makes everything better Cliff.....think I'll start myself!

Finished my new parts shed......the one on the right. She'll hold 8 engines, 6 trannies and a whole lot of fenders and other parts. Wanted to get all that stuff out of the garages

Send them to Mike McGinnis at Banzai Motorworks and he'll stamp em for you.....just like the original.

http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=137:datsun-72-73-240z-orange-line-34q-rear-sway-bar-kit&catid=28:datsun-z-car-suspension&Itemid=86

Futofab has a nice rear bar.....easy to install.

1972.....

Charles....It's a 2 stage paint (I believe it was PPG). We matched the original color under the windshield rubber. Orange and red paint really look different under artificial lights. It looks completely different outside (natural light). Either color looks great on the Datsuns IMO. Good luck....can't wait to see it! Under the hood paint is original paint....you can see how it matches.

Still like the 022 best?

Another 918 orange car....my son's 72 510 (can't believe he sold it)!

Thanks Steve....I never get tired of good shots of the 240Z Datsuns!

918 Orange......

Eiji does such great motors. I don't know why anyone would go anywhere else for their engine builds.

ITM Pistons are fantastic.....I don't like their rings. I use Total Seal Rings with the ITM pistons.....just toss their rings. These are 1 mm ITM's in an L28 block. Nissan may still carry the .040 over (1 mm) rings. If so, you can use them with the ITM's.

Right Jeff...I bought two of the SFI Racing dampers a couple years back. So tight I couldn't get them started either. If you don't line a damper up perfectly, it can drive the the crank pulley key through the oil slinger. I ended up tossing them and installing brand new stock 280 Nissan dampers (still available from Nissan). If they don't fit, the manufacturer should hone them (not our responsibility) to fit the 240 and 280 cranks IMO. The Nissan 280 cranks actually hone a 1/4 inch section so you can slide the damper on over the crank key before you torque it on (very easy alignment). I won't purchase another from Motorsports until they fix the problem which is too bad, because other than fit, they looked like a well made product.