Diseazd

I'm pretty sure you can still buy em new from Nissan. Motorsports should have em too.

I've got a new Rebello set that you use with your stock inner and the Rebello outer spring and a stock retainer that you can use with up to a .500 lift cam and up to .220 lash pad. Also have a new Isky regrind Stage II .485 lift. I use all Stage III.

I've done it twice....fairly easy swap....hope this helps.

Thanks for pointing that out Zed Head. Yes, I'm using mine as a snubber only (factory mount on the bottom).....however, if you limit the movement of the diff and therefore the stress on the rubber stock mount, I would think the stock mount would probably last forever!

I just used the simple bump stop with the R/T mount. I used the stock Nissan mount underneath (with the rubber cushion). There is nothing to cause any vibration with the R/T mount with either bump stop you use, because the only contact that's made is when you are torqueing through the gears, and the diff rises up and is stopped by whichever bump stop you use. The lower mount is damped with a rubber cushion to prevent vibration, because it is connected (bolted to the diff) at all times.

The answer is no .......you are confusing the solid diff mount (under the diff) with the R/T diff mount (above the diff) which just replaces the strap.....which stretches with age. The R/T mount just puts a bump stop above the diff to limit the upward movement (clunk) of the diff. It lasts forever and is the way it should have been designed from the beginning.

BTW.....Blue, I hope you can make ZCON this Fall......Atlanta will be a great destination......hope everyone can make it.....Steve will do a great job I'm sure!

I wonder what the story is on this engine? Those pistons are unique.....who made them (cast not forged) and why the light valve spring retainers? Shaved head for compression, but a stock cam? Why a stock cam, and are you sure it is stock? Was this a transplant from a 70's race car? Looks like someone drove the hell out of it.....maybe raced it. Very interesting....wish it could talk.

Restoration is so cool. Blue is right.....send that cam off to Isky and it'll come back like new. Wish we could send ourselves off and have us come back like new.....

I did the same thing with my first Z back in the early 70's. Beautiful, but a PITA to keep clean.

I like my 205-60-15's......Goodyear Eagles now.

Nice!! So this ain't your first rodeo.

Wow....Very impressive....I love the speed of the restoration....just enough Resto mod......just enough pure stock.....this car will look great and be a blast to drive!

It doesn't matter which tranny you have.....early 4 speed, early 5 speed or 280ZX tranny. They all have the exact same dimensions. The only thing you have to be concerned with is the clutch pressure plate that you use. If you use a 240Z pressure plate, use the 240Z collar.....If you use the 280Z or ZX pressure plate, use the 280Z or ZX collar. If you have a 240 mm flywheel, you'll have to use the 2+2 (turbo) collar. It's that simple.....tranny doesn't matter....clutch pressure plate determines the collar you use.

Good question Captain.....I measured mine with the pressure plate on the bench (not bolted up)......it was 92 mm and works perfect.

The "S.S. Alabama Zama".

Exactly why I'm such a Z nut........quite a difference eh?

Something about the sound of that Porsche flat six pushing you that draws you to the 911. I've had three of them and still look at the 993 EBay listing daily. Beautiful car Jeff..........I know where you are coming from! Guy

This is what Zhead is talking about....92 mm is what you are looking for....more or less and it's trouble!

Listen good to the advice you are getting NMcKe97. You'll live with the engine for a long time. The P79 chambers are large....piston contact is not a problem, and even with the flat tops, you will still have a very low compression engine. 1 mm (.040 inches) overbore is the minimum I would bore....ITM Pistons have worked well for me. Nissan used flat tops in the 82 ZX's NA engines.....still was a very, very low compression engine.

Guessing the car will make an appearance at Atlanta ZCON......how about the former driver....will he be there too Steve?

Beautiful reproduction.....is that Randy's too?

Just curious......did you shave a little off the top of the valve retainers (they look bright sliver)? I know the hats are a little deep for anything under a .170 lash pad and wonder if you ground them down a little? Guy

I agree with you Capt. ......if it were me, and I was going back with that shim, I'd super glue it down so it couldn't shift.....Creepy design.

Seems to me, you could just buy some metal tubing just slightly less diameter than the strut tube, and a little less diameter than the strut. Cut it a little longer than you need, drop it in the strut tube, then push the strut into the strut tube and measure the distance from the top of the strut tube to about a quarter inch from the top of the gland nut......cut that much off of the tubing and reinsert in the strut tube. Slide the strut back in the strut tube and torque it down. Remember the gland nut shouldn't torque flush, it should have 1/8 inch or so space so you know it's snug against the spacer tubing.