Z train

The - cable should ground on the block.Usually up front near the fuel pump.But i relocat them to as close to the starter as i can.And having the cable also grounde to the chassis is a good idea.

No i won't leave it alone.You are advocating a "magic potion in a bottle" over a properly maintained cooling system.And assuming your temp guage is accurate-you are running TOO COLDand are losing HP,efficiency & mpg's. And i didn't say i didn't like WW-i said it's not needed for your average car.Track cars are another story and then WW has it's advantages.On the street all things being equal,it has none. Enjoy: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/redline-waterwetter%C2%AE-review/

Had a tire on my Ram blowout sitting in my yard(65 psi at over 130 degrees).Only a couple years old.Then last week one on the 810 started seperating.Got it replaced before any issues.I've only had tire issues here in Az. with big time heat as a factor.

Exactly what part of Water Wetter is a band-aid that can mask REAL cooling problems and that proper cooling system maintenance will prevent ANY issues(thus making WW point-less) did you not understand? I live in Tucson.And for the past 60 days it has been in triple digits.The car is an automatic with A/C and runs at 190 all day long and 200-205 at 80MPH.Why haven't I over-heated the engine since i do not use WW.

Houston isn't warm.Tucson is warm(er).Three core brass,50/50 mixed(distilled) and no issues.If if it(WW) gives you POM,then great.But my point is,that if water wetter effects engine temp,there is a problem lurking in the cooling system(or engine) and the WW is a band-aid of sorts.

"Compatible"-all that means is there is no adverse reaction.Doesn't mean it was DESIGNED to enhance a water/glycol mix.Proper cooling system care trumps all.Bottom line the stuff is not needed.

Water-wetter is NOT designed to be used with glycol.

That method is actually in a FSM of another make.

That's what my 810 wagon tachs at.It confirms you have 3.54 gears.ANd my temps at 75MPH are around 200-205 with ambient air temp of 105 degrees.

Just havin' a little fun. Actually it's part of a joke: Don't tell my mother i'm a railroader-she thinks i'm a piano player in a whore house.

4X4 gearsets are all going to be 4.11 & higher(numerically).Even here is Az.,ealry 4x4's are far & few in-between.

Piano player in a whorehouse.

You'll be fixing that Fiat a lot more than the Z.

The 17733 is a Super Turbo.My guess is if you go the resonater route,the car will be really quiet. Below is your muffler.Under that is the one i have on the wifes LZ-23 stroker.Quiet untill you put your foot in it and people remark about how good it sounds.Now keep in mind this is a Four banger and your motor will sound even better due to the extra two holes. http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/17733/10002/-1?CT=999 http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/17732/10002/-1

2.5?That's a bit on the large side.What number is on the Walker?Also,Walkers aren't known for "droning".

O.K.-what is the pipe diameter on the system you are getting?Plenty of "stand alone" mufflers that will keep things "neighbor friendly".I just finished a LZ-23 stroker for the wife and the Walker Super Turbo sounds good with a quiet idle and only gets a tad bit loud when you put your foot in it.

Linky no worky

Why do you NEED a resonator?

I have a gear reduction on my LZ-23.I also have a high torque unit the local starter shop built for me waiting for the GR starter to carp the bed.

They will swap.

I want to say my Minolta SLR.

Bachman/Turner have a new LP in the "can" & ready for release. ANd for something completely different http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZa_A8DtHPU&feature=related

Dandos performance in California.

Yes-a Superformance car. I'll rattle a cage or two and see if i can find out the source.